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Old 02-02-2013, 12:57 PM   #21
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I am planning on using some Reflectix insulation from Home Depot inside all the cabinets, lockers and ceilng. I will cover the insulation on the ceiling with vinyl. Dont know if it will help much, but couldn't hurt. The photo is from a 60s AS.
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Old 02-02-2013, 02:59 PM   #22
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Any idea on how the ceiling vinyl is held up? I am still planning to use a layer of reflect-stuff, a layer of 1/2 inch blue or pink foam, and a layer of some sort of paneling from the floor up to about 48". Like wainscoating. The vinyl/reflect combination looks like a good way for the ceiling. Along with a white rubber roof and high darkening film on the windows. Maybe it will stay warm or cool at appropriate times. (Of course, after I redo the floor, re-wire and replumb. Oh... and install new axle and new tires.)
Cheers,bill b.
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Old 02-02-2013, 05:26 PM   #23
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Any idea on how the ceiling vinyl is held up?
Cheers,bill b.
My upholstery guy said upholstery snaps. I don't think I will try and simulate the square lines but use the snaps in a square grid.
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Old 02-02-2013, 07:04 PM   #24
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My upholstery guy said upholstery snaps. I don't think I will try and simulate the square lines but use the snaps in a square grid.
Sounds about right. I rode in an old Air Force C-47 that had been insulated in that way once, long ago. If I recall correctly that aircraft was built a lot like an airstream. And probably got an insulation upgrade when they decided to use it to carry people. It had some sort of button like holders, so I am guessing that upholstery snaps in a square pattern would look good. The inside was covered completely and was more puffy appearing. Maybe thicker fiberglass insulation.
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Old 02-03-2013, 09:29 AM   #25
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It has been my experience this winter that the walls radiate cold. My solution has been the use of Reflectix (same as Prodex) against the windows on the inside. That was step one and it helped a lot.

Step two was to make covers for the ceiling vents from the same material.

Step three was to temporarily apply the Reflectix along the head of my bed using 3M Blue tape. I really don't want to mar up the interior with permanent "fixes", though I have thought of drilling out rivets and installing the Reflectix in the ceiling.
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Old 02-03-2013, 09:33 AM   #26
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Rather than paint that rubber coating stuff on the roof, consider using Super Therm paint. It has very effective insulating qualities which the rubber doesn't have. It's white and easier to work with.
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Old 02-03-2013, 10:10 AM   #27
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Our "cocoon" remains warm in the winter with the furnace and an aux. heater in the LR as needed. The only significant problem is water condensation on the windows--addressed elsewhere. Our AS is much quicker to heat ( about 3 minutes) than our well insulated Fifth wheel and stays warm much longer.

I have read that those who live in very cold temps, skirt their AS, and run the heater often to protect the tanks and plumbing.

We have experienced freezing of the hose from the water source in cold temps, but this could obviously be resolved with heat tape.

All in all our AS seems to be well insulated. As stated above, it's probably a 3 season unit, and stretched to 3.5 with proper insulation. BTW, we once lived in Wyoming, and saw temps into the -50's.....!!!!! Zigi
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Old 02-03-2013, 11:11 AM   #28
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Hi, we have camped in freezing temperatures several times and had the frozen water hose to prove it. We use a small oil filled heater and our furnace. Our Safari has small windows, vinyl headliner, and mouse fur walls, this helps insulate our trailer better than some other models. Two big problems were air leaks at the door, which I fixed be adding a second weather seal around the door opening frame and the storage compartment door, which I installed a double seal around the door itself.
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Old 02-03-2013, 02:20 PM   #29
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Rather than paint that rubber coating stuff on the roof, consider using Super Therm paint. It has very effective insulating qualities which the rubber doesn't have. It's white and easier to work with.
I will have to check that out.
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Old 02-03-2013, 02:57 PM   #30
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Bill B., you can never be too confused. I used this stuff called Ceramiflex. It is made by Selaoflex as part of a RV roof treatment system. The company claims the ceramic component does a better job of reflecting heat. I have had some on for about 5 years and it is holding up well.

There are couple of considerations: you should use an acid etching primer (probably should for any coating), I had a little chalking over time (but I did not use the Sealoflex top coat), it only comes in 5 gallons which is a lot more than you will need.

Roadside and rear awnings also cut down on solar heat.
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Old 02-03-2013, 03:17 PM   #31
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Hi, we have camped in freezing temperatures several times and had the frozen water hose to prove it. We use a small oil filled heater and our furnace. Our Safari has small windows, vinyl headliner, and mouse fur walls, this helps insulate our trailer better than some other models. Two big problems were air leaks at the door, which I fixed be adding a second weather seal around the door opening frame and the storage compartment door, which I installed a double seal around the door itself.
Okay, curious minds want to know...are the mouse fur walls a standard aftermarket addition?

Just curious mind you.

Julianne
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Old 02-03-2013, 03:23 PM   #32
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Okay, curious minds want to know...are the mouse fur walls a standard aftermarket addition?

Just curious mind you.

Julianne
Hi, my Safari came from the factory with the mouse fur walls, but you can buy this stuff and I believe it is common in boats too.
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Old 02-03-2013, 03:33 PM   #33
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Hi, my Safari came from the factory with the mouse fur walls, but you can buy this stuff and I believe it is common in boats too.


We go to all this work to clean their nests out from EVERYWHERE else, and we just let the fur hang on the walls! What's up with that?

Seriously though, I can't imagine it having a high R value. Do you really think it helps that much with the insulation factor?
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Old 02-03-2013, 08:46 PM   #34
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Airstream claims their trailers are the best insulated RV trailer on the road. Impervious to water, varmints, etc.

Airstream - Building Dreams Is Our Business - Part 2 - YouTube

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Old 02-03-2013, 09:05 PM   #35
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Off topic, so, glad to hear you were doing Sandy work. I lost my retail shop to Irene, rebuilt and lost business again to Sandy. NJ has had enough. Time to hit the road for me.
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Old 02-03-2013, 09:22 PM   #36
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We go to all this work to clean their nests out from EVERYWHERE else, and we just let the fur hang on the walls! What's up with that?

Seriously though, I can't imagine it having a high R value. Do you really think it helps that much with the insulation factor?
Hi, Yes; Way warmer than the bare aluminum walls, for sure and the headliner is padded. This all helps.
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Old 02-09-2013, 07:07 PM   #37
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Insulation Effectiveness Evidence

Hello all. My first post.


I purchased a '71 Tradewind last January and began renovating in July. I live outside Hansom AFB about 15 miles from Cambridge, Ma, so have about a year of full time experience. Just dug out from the 2013 Blizzard around noon today.

The attached photos to demonstrate the effectiveness of the community recommended insulation plan. Used spray adhesive to secure Reflextic radiant barrier against the inside of the outer skin and glued fiberglass on top of that in October. Temps this winter have been as low as 0 with wind chills down to ~ -30, and tonight will be just 3-5 degrees warmer. Two electric heaters inside are placeholders for the old defunct furnace I took out in July. Inside is comfortable enough for running shorts and shirt. No condensation issues. Outside water spigot froze up, but it is warm inside.

The ice coating the outer skin reflects little heat escape. The door is clear because I had to put the heater next to it in order to melt the inch or so of ice enough to break out this morning. Thought this would be a useful photograph for interested folks to see what the radiant barrier and insulation combination can do with slightly cold and wet conditions.
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Old 02-09-2013, 07:40 PM   #38
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Reminds me of my USAF days in Canada, a lifetime ago. Not sure I want to remove all of the inner skins to re-insulate, but it looks effective. I guess here in Texas it's not quite as worrisome, but what applies to cold also applies to heat so the additional info will be useful.
Cheers bill b.
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Old 02-09-2013, 08:21 PM   #39
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Colonel T,

What kind of spray adhesive did you use. I am still experimenting. Loctite spray came loose in less than a week I tried 3M today and it does not give you much time to make adjustments. Also tried some Weldwood Contact Cement today.

Any other attachment provision for the Reflectix besides the spray glue?

How long has it been in place?

What kind of fiberglass and how is it attached?

Can you post photos?

I figured I would start in the overhead lockers until I got the technique down.

By the way I did figure out one thing. It is hard to type with spray adhesive on your fingers.
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Old 02-09-2013, 09:54 PM   #40
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Lumatic, I used 3M 90 adhesive. Time is not a friend with 3M, but I dry fit all mods, so it was not a problem. Also used the Reflectix this week on the windows to sandwich between the screens and skin in advance of the Blizzard. Reflectix glued on the plastic wheel wells, too. Also cut sections to serve as seals in the vents when I found snow flurries sneaking in due to the complete deterioration of original cork seals. Truly toasty with these temp mods.
Turns out I have photos of the floor replacement, and other phases, but no record of the radiant barrier. This photo shows the aluminum foil covered shattered window that dictated a complete renovation. PS. Burst water pipes under center shower pan rotted the rear floor, too. Life is sweet when one can match a desire with a requirement.
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