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Old 09-17-2020, 07:57 AM   #21
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West 105 epoxy and 207 hardener is way to go
Non yellowing and designed for flat surfaces

We used 3 coats on our home outside smoker. I redo if every 7-10 years

Lee Valley sells the whole product line including matching fillers
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Old 09-17-2020, 08:28 AM   #22
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Thank you all so much for the information. You guys think it is still worth it even if Iím only doing the top side that is exposed?

I was planning on hitting as much area as I can. Some of it covered by the structures still up will not be hit but everything I can get my hands to will. Just want to make sure there is no downfall to just top side where I can get to.

Thanks!
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Old 09-17-2020, 10:36 AM   #23
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I did what you are asking about on my 1958 AS 18' Traveler almost 2 decades ago. I had a small area at the rear where a window had previously leaked where I repaired it as well.
West Systems Epoxy is a great product that is easy to use with the metering pumps. I used Denatured Alcohol to thin out the first coat to ensure that the sub-floor could absorb as much as possible. Then I just rolled and tipped two more coats to seal all. With the newer trailers having rot issues on their sub-floor this made perfect sense to me as a preventative measure.
I tried a couple of Vinyl Planks and wasn't happy with them probably because we can have extreme temperature swings where I live. I settled on Smart Core because it has a rigid core. When I talked to their tech support I was advised to glue it down. I used Liquid Nails Polyurethane adhesive because it wasn't very permanent but did the job very well. I used it with small dots similar to the way Corian Counter Tops recommends so that there is still a possibility of expansion and contraction movement.
Here is a link to the flooring that I used....not cheap but then it still looks great after all of this time.
https://www.lowes.com/pl/Smartcore--...ent=1686755038
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Old 09-17-2020, 12:36 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by npm5031 View Post
Thank you all so much for the information. You guys think it is still worth it even if Iím only doing the top side that is exposed?

I was planning on hitting as much area as I can. Some of it covered by the structures still up will not be hit but everything I can get my hands to will. Just want to make sure there is no downfall to just top side where I can get to.

Thanks!
To properly seal I would definitely use the penetrating epoxy system, do not just add a waterproof surface layer.



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