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Old 05-18-2002, 02:13 PM   #1
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Question Tile or single piece vinyl?

OK, I have been looking at Vinyl to find out what pattern I would like to use. I feel that using sheets of vinyl instead of tiles might help keep everything together and water proof better.

Anyone have any feedback on which is better?

1' x 1' Tiles Vs. Single Sheet?
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Old 05-18-2002, 03:41 PM   #2
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I have my roll of vinyl waiting in our storage garage. Guess that gives my choice away. It is going in last as I don't want paint on it or cabinet work to scratch it.

Some people that choose tile cut them down to the original 9X9. They say something like the 12X12 look to big for the eye. Mine had 12X12 over top of the 9X9. I pulled it all up to the bare floor that I then replaced.

I thought you were considering Pergo? Change your mind?

-BobbyWright
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Old 05-18-2002, 05:06 PM   #3
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The floor seams in every Airstream trailer, ever made, move ever so slightly. If you use floor tile, place the seams exactly over the floor seams. If you do not, you will find cracks appearing in the tiles.
For those that have chosen the one piece flooring, there is no answer. A crack "WILL" appear every 4 feet, at exactly the plywood floor seam.
This is why Airstream used square tile and then changed to the carpet.
Sorry guys, there is no fix.

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Old 05-19-2002, 12:45 AM   #4
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I noticed the seems on the old flooring and it was obvious the tiles were lined up directly above them.

I am planning on laying vinyl over the entire floor then adding the cabinets so the "fresh" vinyl will be under the cabinets and give that "really fresh" look.

Depending on the final pattern of vinyl I choose, I think I will still add the Pergo "floating floor" to the floor that is exposed after the cabinet are installed. Might be a little over kill, but I think it will be nicer that way. Might as well do things right since I am this far into it.
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Old 05-19-2002, 08:59 AM   #5
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Cool

I am in the same quandry about floor covering. Home Depot has a vinyl floor that "floats" and does not get glued down. I think I will go the "pergo" route though. Mohawk makes a floating wood floor that has an interlocking edge that looks good as there is no gluing of the edges and the problems of a pergo installation. Either vinyl or wood floating over the plywood should be better than a glue down floor in regards to the floor seams.
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Old 05-19-2002, 02:21 PM   #6
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I installed a floating interlocking floor from Home Depot. Forgot the brand but was the cheapest they sold. I set it on 2 layers of undrlayment. I have restored several boats over the years and one program I watched had a saying which was remember it is a boat not a Piano. The same applies to your trailer do not make yourself crazy. Your floors will look great and function great. I am not done with my trailer yet but had to take a pictures for insurance today here are the before and after to help you make up your minds.
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Old 05-19-2002, 02:31 PM   #7
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New floor interior not complete.
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Old 05-30-2002, 10:27 PM   #8
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Jim, two layers of undrlayment???????? I need to go with some thing like Pergo! I dont whant to but i like to play in the mud!!! It will be my only none OEM part off the TT 73 31ft Sovereign....
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Old 05-31-2002, 09:48 AM   #9
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The uderlayment,in this case is just a light foam pad, which lets the floor float. What is really cool about this floor is that you can disassemble it if you have to repair something. I removed the sections in the bath about five times installing a new toilet. I used a compound miter saw to cut the material. Your floor will look great.
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Old 05-31-2002, 10:10 AM   #10
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LOL!!!!!! I know undrlayment. Just why 2 layers??????
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Old 05-31-2002, 10:21 AM   #11
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We installed vinyl in the galley but think we ar going to do the wood route we have some left from our house job so we THINK we will lay in in there for a look see. Then if we like the look we will take the plunge to either pergo or its wood parteners like we have in our home I love it. Seems like it would ber quieter also
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Old 05-31-2002, 10:50 AM   #12
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2 layers of foam made it easier to get a nice level floor and a nicer feel to the floor when you
walk on it. Not necessary but I had so much foam I had to do something with it. I still have a bunch want some?
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Old 07-19-2002, 03:21 AM   #13
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Flooring & stuff

Beautiful CLEAN "uncluttered" restoration Jim. I wish that I could be so 'uncluttered'...but when you see my photos, you'll see that I just DON'T KNOW HOW to Keep it simple (haven't you noticed in my posts?).

But, really Jim, the photo you posted is a great example of really nice upgrading and improvement. I love the colour of the counter-top.

I wish I could find the thread (where someone was talking about the T-Trim (molding) for the countertops. I'm using 1-1/4 inch Aluminum molding...and it curves well. The big problem is that it comes in 14 foot lengths (it would HAVE to, the cabinet in the Salon is a total of about 100+ inches.. and the t-trim needs to be seamless). So, we had to remove the top of the crendenza and we'll install the trim at the cabinet shop where there's lots of room and then return it and reinstall it. Gives the cabinetmaker the opportunity to re-'rout' the edge for the trim anyway. This stuff is tricky to install...you canNOT 'mitre' the bar that goes in the slot. It turns out like 'bends' in the trim. The cabinetmaker thought if you don't remove a section of that 'bar'...it would 'buckle' on a curve---raising the wood. The Trim company SWEARS that will NOT happen. I have seem their installation results in several local establishments (restaurants) and they don't mitre any of them...and it turns out beautiful. Just use a rubber mallet and keep going around the curves... I'll be doing a sample (TRIAL) section this weekend...so will keep you posted.

I'd like someone to direct me to that thread again, so I can go to the photo to see the SS (stainless) trim they installed. Sounds pretty.

........Cat
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Old 07-19-2002, 03:27 AM   #14
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Flooring

SINGLE PIECE OF FLOORING --- (MY vote)..
I removed parquet wood flooring, because the seams spread in travels...and it looks terrible. I took out that and the sub-flooring, which was probably put in with the hope that it would 'float' the parquet pieces. I laid (had done) solid Armstrong no-wax vinyl. My galley floor was only 4 feet wide, and about 7 feet long. The Salon carpeting 'rolls' over the Galley vinyl, and the hall carpet has a 'wrap-edge' anodized aluminum edging laid on top of the vinyl. The adhesive is strong...it won't be goin' anywhere guys.
..........Cat
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Old 07-19-2002, 09:29 AM   #15
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Cat ~

Here are a couple t-molding threads:

t-molding thread #1

t-molding thread #2

I also have pictures & a link on our website:

www.insideout-design.net/maxwell Click on "During" then "Cabinets"

Good luck!

Shari
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Old 07-19-2002, 09:46 AM   #16
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Installing one piece vinyl flooring is not recommended. In time, cracks will appear at every seam in the floor, which is every 4 feet. The floor is joined together underneath, but there is still enough movement in the seams as the shell twists and tweaks. Floor tile is better, provided that it's seams match that of the coach floor seams.

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Old 07-20-2002, 12:49 AM   #17
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Single Sheet Vinyl

Sorry, Andy, already done. Single piece. As I said, my galley is only about 4 feet wide, and the length is about 6 to 7 feet. Does this mean that the (underlying) seam runs across the flooring near one end? Like the end of the vinyl is at the doorway to the hall; and the other 'end' is where the Salon carpeting begins ... at the edge of the galley (one side is the stove and the other is the frig.

Might it be good to have an underlayment that 'meets' where the marine flooring seam is, and allow the single sheet to 'float' on that?

Just curious for NEXT time.

.......Cat

P.S. I'm not sorry I've already done it...I love my flooring, and when it cracks......well---it CRACKS...I'll redo it. What can it harm Andy? How long can it take? It's not that expensive to redo.
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Old 05-02-2003, 11:26 PM   #18
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new tile

This goes out to Andy at InlandRV. I was thinking seriously about redoing with composition tile. The tip about lineing up seams is the single most useful bit of information I have come across yet. Thank You. Any other important tips regarding such a project would be welcome. Bob
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Old 05-02-2003, 11:57 PM   #19
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One-piece flooring

Quote:
Installing one piece vinyl flooring is not recommended. In time, cracks will appear at every seam in the floor, which is every 4 feet.
I was in a 22' International CCD at the dealer today. Solid, one piece vinyl floor. Looks like Airstream changed their mind about having to use tile. Maybe the OSB flooring used in the new Internationals is more dimensionally stable.
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Old 05-03-2003, 09:08 AM   #20
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Tile or single piece vinyl?

Despite recommendations to the contrary, and I may live to regret the decision, seamless sheet vinyl has been installed in both of my coaches by Fowler Interiors. The installation is in its second season in my Overlander, and is just being completed in the Minuet. In both cases, the original flooring was removed to the bare subfloor, any imperfections were filled, and then a new layer of luan underlayment was bonded to the original subfloor material. In both cases, premium industrial grade Congoleum sheet vinyl was chosen due to its construction characteristics. So far I am pleased with both installations - - and even if it does eventually crack, it can't be any worse than dealing with carpet which I refuse to have either in my home or RV. The installation as handled increased the weight of my overlander by 75 pounds over the original carpeting over vinyl tiles; I don't know yet what the weight difference is on the Minuet.

Kevin
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