Should we or should we not

[Angel73]

We just got done replacing the floors in the camper .Now we're ready for the hard wood.We got the snap together floating type.My question is should we run it under the beds and nite stand or not.Ive read where some say no it has to float or it will buckle.We going to start putting it in tomorrow so any comment would be greatful.

[fastrob]

What would be easier?
How would it look? You know some who do a flawless job, some sloppy.
What are your skills?
The best carpenters can cover up sins.
Any liquids that could flow in this area?

R

[Angel73]

Originally Posted by fastrob

What would be easier? (Nothing about this has been easy)
How would it look?(I think it would look better under everything but i dont want to have to replace it again due to it buckling) You know some who do a flawless job, some sloppy.(hubby does nothing half way everything always cost way to much or he wont do it at all)
What are your skills?(Hubby..Painter/welder/framer/carpet layer/roofer/ & Me am the one who dishes out the money and keeps him on his toes....lol)
The best carpenters can cover up sins.(PO covering up stuff, thats what got us in this mess. I wouldn't do that to anyone)
Any liquids that could flow in this area?( I Don't think so after two tubes of trempro(just in the rear bedroom area).Removed the Vista windows and tail lights and resealed. And installed one full sheet of plywood in back.(like factory).
We better not see one drop of water...lol or hubby job next summer will be taking it completely off the frame... and starting all over....lol
Our goal is to beable to enjoy it for atleast the next 5 years to come before every having to do this again this was no fun at all a few scream,some not so nice words to each other a few walk off. And we're almost ready to leave for the lake this year.I hope anyway...

R

So what do you think? Under everything or no?

[Safari Tim]

It just depends how you want it to look and how much work you want to do.

On my last trailer I just ran it up to cabinets and not under. Then I had to trim around everything.

You can see pictures of the floor here and how I trimed around it to hide the gap you need at the wall for floating.

On the trailer I'm doing now, I had to pull everything out to get to places I needed to work. So on this one I ran the flooring under everything. Now I won't have trim around. However when Put the cabinetry back I could not screw down through the floor since it needs to float. I only screwed cabinets back into the walls.

The other thing to consider is drawers and cabinet doors. Will everything be able to open if you put the flooring around them?

Hope this helps.

[fastrob]

Originally Posted by Angel73

So what do you think? Under everything or no?

Wood is beautiful, but; I would put vinyl flooring under everything.
We have kids, dogs, a cat, a bird, mud and friends that have mud on their shoes. Maintenance is to be minimized.
Utility and function over high maintenance.
There are some beautiful fake floors tough as nails.

R

[cooperhawk]

If you're really thinking hard wood, like oak, it will add a lot of weight and most of the products I've seen are at least 3/4 inch thick. If that is the case you probably should put it under everything.

I installed Pergoe in our coach. It is a lot thinner and adds less weight. It does need to float, so you can't put it under things as then it can't move when it needs to. I butted it up to walls and cabinets leaving at least a quarter inch gap, and then put a quarter round over the gap fastening the quarter round to the wall or cabinet.

Pergoe is just one product. There are many brands and looks to choose from out there. Ours has been in for a year and had sand and mud tracked in on it with no damage at all. Our 95 pound black lab doesn't like it though, too slippery for her. It's also easy to clean up. Just sweep or vacuum.

[markdoane]

At over $5 a sq ft I couldn't afford to run the cork laminate under the cabinets.

First I tiled the entire floor and sealed the edges with Vulkem.

Then I bought a sheet of 1/2" plywood that I cut into 2" strips. I nailed the strips to the bottom of all the cabinets so that the toe kicks and drawers would be the same height as the original.

It works great. If you make the strips wider than the bottom of the cabinets you have a flange that is easier to attach to subfloor.

This picture shows the flange arrangement inside of a bed base>

[TomW]

Originally Posted by markdoane

...First I tiled the entire floor and sealed the edges with Vulkem. ...

Sealing the edges I can relate to thanks to sneakinup's dad's advice.

But what was the reasoning behind tileing the entire floor before laying the laminate?

Tom

[Safari Tim]

Don,

Will you quite teasing us with these great photos from one tread to the next.

I have to constantly search threads to see you post snips of your trailer here and there. Such detailed work needs a website or at least a flickr page!!!

Angel73, in your case this time, I'd just go up to the furnature with the laminate floating floor and trim around it.

Good luck!

Originally Posted by markdoane

At over $5 a sq ft I couldn't afford to run the cork laminate under the cabinets.

First I tiled the entire floor and sealed the edges with Vulkem.

Then I bought a sheet of 1/2" plywood that I cut into 2" strips. I nailed the strips to the bottom of all the cabinets so that the toe kicks and drawers would be the same height as the original.

It works great. If you make the strips wider than the bottom of the cabinets you have a flange that is easier to attach to subfloor.

This picture shows the flange arrangement inside of a bed base>

[markdoane]

Originally Posted by TomW

. . what was the reasoning behind tileing the entire floor before laying the laminate?
Tom

I wanted to have a nice, water-resistant surface inside all the lockers, closets, and under the beds and gaucho.

And I like laying tile. Especially the really heavy VCT. It will be a good base if I decide to take out the cork and put in carpet someday.

I don't have to worry about the added weight because I beefed up the axle and springs to carry the extra weight. The early Tradewinds were really too light.

I think having a lot of weight, evenly distributed and down very low, helps with the mass moment of inertia.

[soldiermedic]

If you laid the tile to specifically go under those areas then it would be a waster if you laid the floating floor over it. You flange looks like it should work. Laying the floor up to that flange will produce nice results that you can be more than happy with, and you have the tile in the other areas that you wanted.

Steve

[markdoane]

It was lot easier to lay the tile side to side and end to end, then place the furniture after.

[soldiermedic]

Originally Posted by markdoane

It was lot easier to lay the tile side to side and end to end, then place the furniture after.

I would definately lay side to side and avoid laying the floor front to rear. Many people have experienced flooring issues when doing it this way.

Steve