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Old 12-31-2008, 11:13 AM   #21
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Well, I did go to the trouble of buying exterior grade ply for the subfloor in order to get the waterproof glue, so it certainly wouldn't make much sense to use non-waterproof luaun for underlayment.
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Old 12-31-2008, 12:04 PM   #22
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I don't know what decking you used for a subfloor, but I would use 1/4 or 3/8 plywood rather than luan. Luan is fairly soft wood and that's why it's light. It's not very strong. I would waterproof the plywood on both sides and the cut edges with something like polyurethane. Make sure the vinyl adhesive will stick to the polyurethane. You could secure it with construction adhesive and brads slightly shorter than the combination of the plywood and decking. If you use a nail (brad) gun, it will drive the brads just below the surface if you set the gun adjustment properly. Since I discovered nail guns, I am a much happier remodeler and my hammer elbow (just like tennis elbow) doesn't reappear every time I need to nail things.

Vinyl should last a lot longer than linoleum. Linoleum is porous and needs to be sealed periodically also. I suspect a lot of people use vinyl tiles because cutting sheet vinyl to fit around all the objects in the trailer requires some experience. I'll try almost anything, but I know when to hire a professional. In my '08 trailer, it looks like the vinyl is installed first and all the cabinets, etc., installed afterward. That means much, much less labor. I would hate to have to decide whether to remove all the cabinets and partitions to install a new floor—either way is a lot of work and potential disasters. Tiles can move and leave ugly spaces between them and that allows water penetration. I would leave that to professionals too.

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Old 12-31-2008, 02:28 PM   #23
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Thanks for the insights, CG.

Given unlimited resources, I'd hire the entire job out to Frank's Trailer Works in Baltimore, Maryland!

Alas, I have a VERY limited budget, so I have no choice but to tackle the floor installation on my own. Additionally, I really enjoy DIY projects, so I'm happy to do the work myself, I just want to make sure I'm approaching things from the right direction.




The good news is that my interior is already all out, so I don't have to worry about cutting in around furniture and appliances and such...
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Old 12-31-2008, 03:09 PM   #24
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The good news is that my interior is already all out, so I don't have to worry about cutting in around furniture and appliances and such...
In that case, go for it! How about an Italian marble floor?

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Old 12-31-2008, 03:11 PM   #25
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I'm still trying to figure out what the best filler would be for my recessed elevator bolt heads, assuming I do not lay luaun over it. I need something that will stick when the flooring adhesive is applied over it, and I've heard from some on the forums that bondo and some types of wood filler just pull right out.
I have used a urethane concrete crack filler for similar projects. It is self leveling and sticks to anything. Comes in a caulking tube.
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Old 12-31-2008, 03:14 PM   #26
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I went to the home improvement store

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... I'm still trying to figure out what the best filler would be for my recessed elevator bolt heads ...
I used the floor leveling compound available from home centers. Sold in dry form, the directions read that it could be mixed with water, but for best results use the complementary, diluted snake oil sold next to it instead. Not wanting to take chances, I purchased a gallon of the recommended mix agent. The result was wonderful, and I am still happy with the way the [finished] floor covering turned out.

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Old 12-31-2008, 03:21 PM   #27
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Ha! Italian marble indeed!

Fyrz-- Thanks for the tip. That stuff sounds pretty rugged to me.

Tom-- I've bought a lot of snake oil in my time, so this certainly wouldn't be the first!

And do you like the play your ancient old thread is currently getting? These Forums never cease to amaze me with the breadth and depth of information available in real-time, or in archived form.
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Old 12-31-2008, 03:33 PM   #28
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Speak up, sonny

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Tom-- ... do you like the play your ancient old thread is currently getting? These Forums never cease to amaze me with the breadth and depth of information available in real-time, or in archived form.
Yeah, this thread is so old that I think I started it before Inland Andy started the first axle thread.



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Old 12-31-2008, 04:05 PM   #29
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Yeah, this thread is so old that I think I started it before Inland Andy started the first axle thread.



Tom
Au contraire, my dear friend. Here is a post that precedes this thread by almost a couple of years!
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Old 12-31-2008, 04:17 PM   #30
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Feeling cocky are you?

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Au contraire, my dear friend. Here is a post [see below] that precedes this thread by almost a couple of years!
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Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post
AJ. Go to our web site, inlandrv.com Click on articles, and then click on "Dura-torque axles."
That article describes a check out for your axles. You may have a bad axle or two.


Andy
Yeah, Don, but since Andy does not spell out certain doom in the post, does this one count?


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Old 01-02-2009, 04:56 AM   #31
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I think you guys are doing all this the hard way just use fiberglass cloth and resin to patch.

OR

In fact that's how i did my whole floor, got 6oz fiberglass cloth about 50 inches wide did one half then the other,

It can stand up to an 800 lb gorrilla, cost $125, 3-4 hours, done forever.
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Old 01-08-2009, 08:36 PM   #32
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ID:	73536I will be puting down Luan this week-end here in central Georgia. I plan to clean and level out as best I can the old factory tiles. I plan to liquid nail the perimeters and joints.
I am laying the luan across side to side in our 19' '63 Globetrotter. I need this done before cabinets get measured on Tuesday at the carpentry shop. They request the our trailer be right there on measurements and fabrication. Lowes had a indoor out door woven material that is soft to the touch but looks like horse hair rows we are thinking seriously about. But no decision yet. Congolium is begining to sound pretty good and comes in some cool designs.
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Old 01-08-2009, 10:26 PM   #33
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I would have never believed it...

Thats amazing... i have never seen anything like that. Does that mean from now forward this trailer will never have to worry about floor rot again? Why didnt airstream do this to begin with as the floor seems to be the weak point for longevity.. Do you expect some stress cracking or any problems with the fiberglass?

Cool idea.

Vinnie


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I think you guys are doing all this the hard way just use fiberglass cloth and resin to patch.

OR

In fact that's how i did my whole floor, got 6oz fiberglass cloth about 50 inches wide did one half then the other,

It can stand up to an 800 lb gorrilla, cost $125, 3-4 hours, done forever.
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Old 01-12-2009, 09:08 AM   #34
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Flooring Luan Underlayment

Hey there, I got it done and it was easy for me with just a 19' Globe Trotter. I patched a isolated hole that was rotten from a exterior leak in skin where dented. Must've been like that for a long time. I used preassure treated wood and cut a piece to fit under solid flooring and then cut my piece to go on top.Then screwed both down with exterior construction screws that I had.
Next I prepared the floor with a good sweeping. I laid out my construction brown paper and cut a pattern for the rear bath area. I glued around sink, tub and black water tank holes, the edges and center area. Careful not to muck all the glue I slid the luan into place and screwed down to keep floor tight. I need my tub in and black tank to start the cabinets because of the tight measurements. It sure looks good with the new luan flooring and now I won't worry about the scunky smells that lie beneath.
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Old 01-26-2009, 09:36 PM   #35
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as a floorcovering installer if you are going with a hard surface in your baby as ( linoleum,hardwood) i would personaly put luan down with skimming your seams with ardex to give you a smooth flat surface.there is no reason to take old floor up and all you would be doing is sturding your exsisting floor . just a suggestion.
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Old 01-26-2009, 09:47 PM   #36
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rv-n,
Are you saying to "skim" the original floor with ardex and then put the luan down or put the luan down and then skim the seams/joints? I'm at a similar place w/my trailer, basically a very "rough" sub-floor w/areas where i have not been able to remove the old asbestos tiles and black tar mastic and areas where I have gotten down to the original plywood . . . and then areas of new/replacement plywood.
Thanks, MarkR
oh, and i am planning on putting down sheet linoleum
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Old 01-26-2009, 10:04 PM   #37
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after you get luan down skim the whole floor,joints, etc as ardex is a levaler and will level your low spots . use a trial the flat side going left to right covering all areas once dry go back with puddy knife to get excess fine sweep and youll have a nice flat surface for you linoleum . hope this helped you.
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Old 02-02-2009, 03:50 PM   #38
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Luan Floor

Hey there,
Your post got me started and I have finished the work except for the ardex selfleveler compound. And I think that because my floor is so small it may not even need the detailing with ardex. Looking at the photos though it looks like I could use some huh? But when your inside it doesn't appear so.
Especially if we go with carpet.
I like the knowlege though and glad to know that. we were thinking of installing the floor before the bathtub and water tank etc. but nixed it in exchange for cutting to fit as soon as possible.
Have fun! we did.
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Old 02-02-2009, 09:43 PM   #39
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I used the glue that is used for outdoor carpet and brads to nail down luan. Next I (per my neighbor who is an installer) used joint compound on the seams. I made sure that the joints in the luan and the plywood subfloor did not overlap. Next I used very good vinyl that was glued down, the neighbor did this step, than I used base around the edges to prevent curling. All seams were sealed with a vinyl glue. Its been 2 years and sitting the the Iowa cold and heat hasn't bothered it.
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Old 02-02-2009, 10:14 PM   #40
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We used the ARDEX that came with the install kit for our 12x12 cork tile. Yes, you can see the floor joins. No, it ain't a problem.

The Ardex Feather Finish is great stuff for what DIDN'T "telegraph" through!
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