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05-03-2018, 02:18 PM
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#21
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3 Rivet Member
1976 25' Caravanner
Kent
, Washington
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Team Filly
Tonydead,
Thanks for your post. I’m new to AS and this forum. I’m in the process of a shell-on Reno and I bought vinyl locking planks for flooring. I’m torn whether I should lay it all first then stack cabinets back on top (I know...it won’t be “floating” as much), or build the cabinets and lay the planks around them. Have you had any issues to date with buckling? Thanks again
Mike
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My cabinets are resting on top of the flooring and riveted to the walls to hold in place. The only thing I need to bolt down to the floor is the removable pole for the table. When I install that I'll drill extra large holes in the vinyl to give at least a 1/4" gap all the way around the bolts. Do that if you have to anchor anything to the floor. If you lay the planks around the cabinets you'll have a lot more 1/4" gaps to hide with trim.
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05-04-2018, 07:20 AM
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#22
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New Member
1977 Argosy 22
Palmdale
, California
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 3
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Thanks for the replies! Exactly what I was looking for.
mikeoxlong, are your cabinets screwed to the floor or do you just have them resting on top/fastened to the walls?
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06-01-2019, 11:40 AM
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#23
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'90 Excella 25C
1990 25' Excella
Wells
, Maine
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 8
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Not with this product specifically but I have put down this type of flooring in both my 90' Excella 24 and my pervious Shasta 1200. I used a vinyl product in both cases because of durability. I like the 'Click' flooring over sheet because it allowed me to replace the flooring without having to pull all internal bulkheads out in the process.
As mentioned earlier, you'll need to account for expansion around the edges. I left a consistent 1/8 on the sides and 1/4 at each end. Actually, first time with the shasta I did not leave expansion room and the panels bubbled up in the heat. A quick run with a dremel along the sides solved that. To cover the gap I used 1/2 by 1/4 vinyl trim in an 'L' extrusion. Basically a convex curve on the bottom edge. I used a complementary color and the entire thing looked very professional. Sorry, lost the Shasta pics in the great Google+ purge. My Airstream project is being documented here:
https://blog.jerunamuck.org/2019/05/...s-replace.html
Almost done, I'll update the post with the After pictures soon.
One other thing I did was to cut 1/2" slots in the ends of the planks under the couch and where the couch base screws down to the the floor. This allows for expansion while anchoring the flooring. That was a trick I learned on the Shasta to keep the floating floor in place while traveling.
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07-04-2019, 07:32 AM
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#24
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DRJJL
1985 31' Sovereign
Poway
, California
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 150
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We are thinking also of the better $3 + / st plank flooring from Lowes. We are building in a half round banquette in the fore of our rear bed 85 Excella 30’. Perhaps we should place flooring under banquette but not all the way to edge? To give expansion room. Also we are not flooring under the double bed to save $$.
__________________
drjj
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07-08-2019, 02:07 PM
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#25
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3 Rivet Member
1976 25' Caravanner
Kent
, Washington
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Team Filly
Thanks for the replies! Exactly what I was looking for.
mikeoxlong, are your cabinets screwed to the floor or do you just have them resting on top/fastened to the walls?
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All my cabinets and benches are anchored to the walls and just resting on the planks. The only thing I had going into the floor is the pole for the table, I made the holes 1/2" bigger through the planks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by drjudy
We are thinking also of the better $3 + / st plank flooring from Lowes. We are building in a half round banquette in the fore of our rear bed 85 Excella 30’. Perhaps we should place flooring under banquette but not all the way to edge? To give expansion room. Also we are not flooring under the double bed to save $$.
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For floating planks leave 1/4" for expansion, any where the gap is visible you can glue a small piece of molding to the wall.
I had one or two places where the planks pulled apart while settling in early on (within first few months) that i was able to snap back with the pull bar tool. Since then no issues, going on 3 years.
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07-08-2019, 03:06 PM
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#26
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1 Rivet Member
1974 Argosy 26
West Des Moines
, IA
Join Date: Jul 2019
Posts: 17
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I've floated 1600 sqft of house with LVP from lumber liquidators, I'm about to go buy the 5mm product (I used the 4mm before) for our Argosy. We'll see how it goes.
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10-22-2019, 10:46 AM
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#27
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1 Rivet Member
1974 Argosy 26
West Des Moines
, IA
Join Date: Jul 2019
Posts: 17
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I just installed LVP in mine two weeks back and we've had temps in the coach between 75 and 39 and no negatives, also traveled about 80 miles and no noticeable shifts.
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01-24-2020, 05:09 PM
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#28
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4 Rivet Member
1976 24' Argosy 24
1999 30' Excella 1000
White Haven
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 402
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Just got done using Smart Core Pro from Lowes.
Only the Pro is rated for temperatures from -25 to 150 degrees F.
We'll see.
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01-26-2021, 02:21 PM
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#29
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2 Rivet Member
1992 29' Excella
PLANO
, TX
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 26
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what thickness should we use? 4mm or 5 mm, or? if it is too thick it will put a lot more weight on the trailer.
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01-27-2021, 05:42 AM
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#30
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1 Rivet Member
1974 Argosy 26
West Des Moines
, IA
Join Date: Jul 2019
Posts: 17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xin Li
what thickness should we use? 4mm or 5 mm, or? if it is too thick it will put a lot more weight on the trailer.
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I used 5mm. I think it was just short of 5 boxes. Total weight was under 300lbs. I removed a layer of sheet vinyl and carpet probably weighing 50-100 lbs so the net addition is less than 200lbs. I know ours had a dry weight of like 3900 but a gvrw of like 5200 I routinely trailer my spare tire, cooler, 2 bikes, and other misc stuff around 500lbs. Just track the weight of your stuff and you should be fine.
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06-20-2023, 08:20 PM
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#31
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Rivet Master
1973 21' Globetrotter
Houston
, Texas
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 3,320
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Well, it has been a couple more years now--for those of you that installed the click LVT underneath furnishings, how well has it worked? It seems like the common advice is to leave room for expansion--any other tricks?
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