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07-10-2016, 06:49 PM
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#1
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Site Team
2009 25' FB International
2018 27' Globetrotter
Tavares
, Florida
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 3,964
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Finish trim after floor replacement.
I've been working on and have almost completed repairing the water leak in the back of the my 2009 25FB. While I have everything torn apart (on the street side) I thought it might be a good time to upgrade the floor. I'm not sure what I would use yet (just started investigating the options) but regardless I will need to use trim around the edges. The biggest issue is around the sink peninsula. I really don't want to remove all the cabinetry and stove, etc.
Has anyone successfully installed a new floor, like LVT, without removing the sink peninsula? And if so, how did you finish the trim around the peninsula?
Thanks!
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07-10-2016, 07:36 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1974 31' Sovereign
1979 23' Safari
Wayland
, New York
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,632
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Assuming that's a before shot and you'll have new floor edge up against the stainless kick trim that won't look as nice.
My thought would be some PVC house trim maybe 1/4 round. It's pretty flexible and if you use a heat gun to warm it up you should be able to get it to meet that curve pretty easily. You can paint it a color you'd like for the trim. Big box hardware stores have the stuff.
If you hear/bend it before the new floor goes in to get the shape you won't have to worry about heat damage to the new floor. Paint it then fasten it when new floor is done.
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07-10-2016, 08:07 PM
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#3
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Site Team
2009 25' FB International
2018 27' Globetrotter
Tavares
, Florida
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 3,964
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HiJoeSilver
Assuming that's a before shot and you'll have new floor edge up against the stainless kick trim that won't look as nice.
My thought would be some PVC house trim maybe 1/4 round. It's pretty flexible and if you use a heat gun to warm it up you should be able to get it to meet that curve pretty easily. You can paint it a color you'd like for the trim. Big box hardware stores have the stuff.
If you hear/bend it before the new floor goes in to get the shape you won't have to worry about heat damage to the new floor. Paint it then fasten it when new floor is done.
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Yes the picture is a before shot with the original floor.
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07-10-2016, 08:16 PM
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#5
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2 Rivet Member
1992 25' Excella
Orange County
, New York
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 33
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That is the mobile site, because I sent it from my phone, you can cut and paste the link and take the "m" out after the http:/
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07-10-2016, 09:15 PM
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#6
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Rivet Master
1960 33' Custom
Athens
, Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,373
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Can you remove the stainless kick trim and trim/ reinstall after new the flooring is in?
__________________
1960 Sovereign 33' Pacific Railroad Custom
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07-10-2016, 10:58 PM
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#7
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2 Rivet Member
1992 25' Excella
Orange County
, New York
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 33
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It appears that the kick plate is screwed in on the bottom. It can probably end removed and trimmed
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07-11-2016, 01:43 PM
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#8
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S/OS #005
2004 28' Safari S/O
Georgetown
, Ontario
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 58
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We put in new cork flooring & used the outside rub rail, just the centre section as trim. It bends around the curves & blends in perfectly. When at jackson centre i saw that they sell it wider than what we bought at dealer. It sticks on & has been there for a year now without coming off. Just a thought.
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07-16-2016, 06:59 AM
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#9
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Site Team
2009 25' FB International
2018 27' Globetrotter
Tavares
, Florida
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 3,964
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JACQUIE
We put in new cork flooring & used the outside rub rail, just the centre section as trim. It bends around the curves & blends in perfectly. When at jackson centre i saw that they sell it wider than what we bought at dealer. It sticks on & has been there for a year now without coming off. Just a thought.
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Sound like a creative and practical solution. Thanks! Would you happen to have any pictures to share?
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07-20-2016, 12:33 PM
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#10
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S/OS #005
2004 28' Safari S/O
Georgetown
, Ontario
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 58
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I have 2 photos of how we trimmed the new flooring but still cannot figure out how to post them??
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07-20-2016, 12:39 PM
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#11
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S/OS #005
2004 28' Safari S/O
Georgetown
, Ontario
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 58
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Floor trim
I added photo under title floor trim. Hope you can find it.
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07-20-2016, 03:39 PM
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#12
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Site Team
2009 25' FB International
2018 27' Globetrotter
Tavares
, Florida
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 3,964
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JACQUIE
I added photo under title floor trim. Hope you can find it.
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I did find it and it looks great. Thanks so much for taking the time and trouble to share the picture. I just might do the same thing!
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07-11-2017, 11:16 AM
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#13
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2 Rivet Member
2004 25' Safari
Shelby
, North Carolina
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 21
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Hans..
You can remove the sink and cabinet in about 30 minutes. Power screwdriver with a long Phillips shank and a wrench to disconnect the gas line to the stove should do it. The plumbing all comes loose with no tools. You will be amazed at how easy it is and your flooring job will look much better.
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07-17-2017, 08:00 PM
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#14
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Site Team
2009 25' FB International
2018 27' Globetrotter
Tavares
, Florida
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 3,964
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbstill
Hans..
You can remove the sink and cabinet in about 30 minutes. Power screwdriver with a long Phillips shank and a wrench to disconnect the gas line to the stove should do it. The plumbing all comes loose with no tools. You will be amazed at how easy it is and your flooring job will look much better.
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I probably could have removed the sink and cabinet but I was just about in over my head with the entire project and didn't feel comfortable digging in deeper.
So I did it this way and used the rub rail insert as trim. It came out pretty good and I'm happy. If I were to do it again I might do it differently.
Nevertheless thanks for taking the time for your post.
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