Shock clearance

[toastie]

Installing new shocks to a new axle and had to weld old lower shock mount to a new lower plate, it appears to be in the same place as the old one. However, when I went to install my new shocks the top part of the shock hit the backing plate of my brakes. I can move the top mount to give me clearance of about a 1/4", see attached picture, and would that be enough................thanks

[3Ms75Argosy]

Toastie - what if you flip the shock? Would that work?
Marc

[azflycaster]

What is the clearance going to be with the tire mounted?

[toastie]

Originally Posted by azflycaster

What is the clearance going to be with the tire mounted?

Whoops, just put the tire on and have an hard interference, mount to tire.

[Janets Husband]

Originally Posted by toastie

Whoops, just put the tire on and have an hard interference, mount to tire.

I have not seen a yellow colored shock for an Airstream. Is it the correct shock? Is the diameter too big? The six shocks I have installed were all black and did not look to be that large in diameter.
Just a thought.

[markdoane]

You can flip the shocks to the inboard side of the frame. You need to weld the lower shock studs to the other side of the spring plate, and mount an upper stud on the inside of the frame. While you're doing that, weld another piece of channel fore and aft from the crossmembers on either side of the axle, to make a pocket for the shocks.

Then trim out the belly pan to clear the shocks.

Here's a picture of the frame pockets and the final arrangement, without the bellypan.

[toastie]

Does anybody know where I can get a bracket shown in the below picture, this would move the shock back and the upper shock mount away from the tire and would probably solve my problem.........thanks

[toastie]

markdoane and 3Ms75Argosy

Took your advise and flip the shocks inboard and did a trail fit, and what a clean safe design, yes, it complicates the belly pan a little but very workable. Once all components are assembled using threadlocker will spot weld each fastener, yes, overkill, if I have to replace will cut out and replace with new....................thanks

[3Ms75Argosy]

Good job! Just a thought. Check the wheelwell/ to tire clearance when the wheelwells go back on... your track may be just a bit smaller side / side than orginal. Do you have the old axle to compare the hub / hub distance? You might have to mount the wells inside just a bit more by the same difference in the two axles.

I'm jealous that you can fab up shock mounts so quickly!
Marc

[Action]

Originally Posted by Janet's Husband

I have not seen a yellow colored shock for an Airstream. Is it the correct shock? Is the diameter too big? The six shocks I have installed were all black and did not look to be that large in diameter.
Just a thought.

These are verticle shocks. So there are many choices that will fit the mounting. In 1967 A/S went to the horizontal shocks. A/S branded shocks is the only choice for that arrangement.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>Action

[toastie]

Originally Posted by 3Ms75Argosy

Good job! Just a thought. Check the wheelwell/ to tire clearance when the wheelwells go back on... your track may be just a bit smaller side / side than orginal. Do you have the old axle to compare the hub / hub distance? You might have to mount the wells inside just a bit more by the same difference in the two axles.

I'm jealous that you can fab up shock mounts so quickly!
Marc

Great catch on the wheelwells, I did a trial fit and I'm about 1 1/4" away, is that enough?.............thanks

[3Ms75Argosy]

Hmmm, are you really that far away? It looks closer from this angle... and it could be an angle. If you can, try articulating the wheel upwards.. remember, the tire itself will flex a bit outwards with a bump, and then the wheel will go up. I "think" it might work.. but you might want to check. Or, you can just leave it as is, and then check the inside tires for any rub marks...

Some other ideas if you run up against bad clearance. Are your wheels at zero offset? If not, maybe new rims will get you a more positive offset away from the frame. Skinnier tires? If these are 225/75/15's, then a 7Rx15 will get more height and less width.

Ultimately, I think the supplied axle is a bit short. Do you still have the old one to compare hub / hub distance?
Marc

[toastie]

Originally Posted by 3Ms75Argosy

Hmmm, are you really that far away? It looks closer from this angle... and it could be an angle. If you can, try articulating the wheel upwards.. remember, the tire itself will flex a bit outwards with a bump, and then the wheel will go up. I "think" it might work.. but you might want to check. Or, you can just leave it as is, and then check the inside tires for any rub marks...

Some other ideas if you run up against bad clearance. Are your wheels at zero offset? If not, maybe new rims will get you a more positive offset away from the frame. Skinnier tires? If these are 225/75/15's, then a 7Rx15 will get more height and less width.

Ultimately, I think the supplied axle is a bit short. Do you still have the old one to compare hub / hub distance?
Marc

The old axle is gone, what is zero offset............thanks

[3Ms75Argosy]

Offset refers to the distance the hub-face is mounted in relation to the rim.... so, if the hubface (the lugnut mounting surface) is directly in the middle of the rim from front to back, it's zero offset. If the hub surface is mounted more towards the rear of the rim (so that the wheel is pushed forward), I believe this is called Negative offset. Most rear wheel drive cars / trucks have this. Positive offset is when it's mounted more towards the front of the rim, making the wheel more inboard in relation to the hub (like most frontwheel drive cars..). I hope this makes sense. I believe the Tirerack.com has something about this in the wheels section.
Wheel Tech - Offset
More negative offset would make the rim go away from the wheel wells.

No problem about the old axle, I thought it might be illuminating to what's going on.
Marc

[toastie]

Originally Posted by 3Ms75Argosy

Offset refers to the distance the hub-face is mounted in relation to the rim.... so, if the hubface (the lugnut mounting surface) is directly in the middle of the rim from front to back, it's zero offset. If the hub surface is mounted more towards the rear of the rim (so that the wheel is pushed forward), I believe this is called Negative offset. Most rear wheel drive cars / trucks have this. Positive offset is when it's mounted more towards the front of the rim, making the wheel more inboard in relation to the hub (like most frontwheel drive cars..). I hope this makes sense. I believe the Tirerack.com has something about this in the wheels section.
Wheel Tech - Offset
More negative offset would make the rim go away from the wheel wells.

No problem about the old axle, I thought it might be illuminating to what's going on.

Marc

Marc

I checked with my Detroit wheel guy today and he said that I should be ok. However, he said that if I needed more clearance to go with the negative offset rim............thanks very much...............toastie