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10-15-2010, 01:38 PM
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#1
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3 Rivet Member 
1975 31' Excella 500
undetermined
, Washington
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 125
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That awful thin plastic strip in the bathroom
Has anyone replaced that thin strip of plastic in the bathroom? The one that goes all the way around the bathroom (above the sink) and the smaller strips around the bathtub are all damaged. I cant spend any money right now but I'm curious as to what others have done, if anything, to fix it.
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10-15-2010, 01:43 PM
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#2
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2 Rivet Member 
1973 31' Sovereign
raleigh
, North Carolina
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 70
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I'm looking for a solution too. I heard about someone cutting strips from vertical blind material and might do the same.
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10-15-2010, 01:50 PM
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#3
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Rivet Master 
1958 26' Overlander
Mesa
, Arizona
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,742
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I used white verticle blind material. Cheap and looks great.
__________________
1958 Overlander
2011 Wolf Creek 850N TC
2011 Ford F-250 Crewcab (6.2L), 3.73RE
WBCCI #5661/AIR #5661/TAC # AZ-6
4CU 1st VP
My '58 Overlander Restoration and Travel Blog:
https://mellomikesairstreams.blogspot.com/
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10-15-2010, 01:52 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master 
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaleighAir
I'm looking for a solution too. I heard about someone cutting strips from vertical blind material and might do the same.
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The original material is called "insert nosing".
Andy
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10-15-2010, 02:15 PM
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#5
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3 Rivet Member 
1975 31' Excella 500
undetermined
, Washington
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mello mike
I used white verticle blind material. Cheap and looks great.
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I don't suppose you've posted a picture anywhere? Did you have to cut it to make it thin enough to fit in the metal sleeve thing? How did you make the joints look ok? (One strip wouldnt belong enough to go all the way around, right?) Did you have the blinds or did you buy one somewhere? I've never looked at those types of blinds, I would imagine you could buy one replacement strip at Home Depot or somewhere.
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10-15-2010, 03:22 PM
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#6
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Rivet Master 
1958 26' Overlander
Mesa
, Arizona
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,742
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Mona,
I have a few pics on my blog (see the Dec 29, 2009 entry). For the really long trim piece you'll need more than one length, no real way to get around that if you want to go cheap. The insert nosing is expensive.
__________________
1958 Overlander
2011 Wolf Creek 850N TC
2011 Ford F-250 Crewcab (6.2L), 3.73RE
WBCCI #5661/AIR #5661/TAC # AZ-6
4CU 1st VP
My '58 Overlander Restoration and Travel Blog:
https://mellomikesairstreams.blogspot.com/
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10-15-2010, 03:50 PM
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#7
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Rivet Master 
1971 27' Overlander
Central
, Ohio
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,365
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10-15-2010, 04:38 PM
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#8
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Rivet Master 
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill
, Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,010
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Trim "Nosing"
I used 1 1/16" strips that I cut from the vinyl flooring that I used on the bath floor.
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10-15-2010, 07:18 PM
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#9
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3 Rivet Member 
1975 31' Excella 500
undetermined
, Washington
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 125
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Ooh, TG I like that! Did you use clear sealant over the seams once you were finished to keep water from getting in there?
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10-15-2010, 07:24 PM
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#10
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3 Rivet Member 
1975 31' Excella 500
undetermined
, Washington
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 125
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Mike-bathroom looks great!! What did you use to cut the blind to be thin enough to fit into the slot? I can just see myself making an awful mess of that.
Gary-Those look like they would make the job so much simpler!
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10-15-2010, 08:25 PM
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#11
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Rivet Master 
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill
, Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,010
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Sealant
I used a very thin bead of white silicone on the top of the aluminum trim, leaving the bottom unsealed in case water does get into the space it can drain out. Here's a couple shots of the bath, old and new. The old is on the bottom.
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10-15-2010, 08:37 PM
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#12
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Site Team
1974 31' Sovereign
Ottawa
, ON
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 11,219
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
The original material is called "insert nosing".
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MonaxLisa
Be careful if you decide to purchase this material. There are merchants that might sell you something purported to be the right insert nosing, and while it could be the right width, it's possible that it is too thick to actually fit in the aluminum channel, without being modified in some way.
I have 70' of it in my shed, waiting for the day that I either throw it out, or waste my time back-sanding it to make it fit.
Be sure to ask the seller BEFORE YOU BUY if it is an exact and proper replacement for the original factory nosing if you decide you want this product.
__________________
“Courage is being scared to death, but saddling up anyway.” ...John Wayne...........................
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10-15-2010, 08:44 PM
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#13
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3 Rivet Member 
1975 31' Excella 500
undetermined
, Washington
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 125
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TG-Your bathroom looks SO nice! What an improvement! I think I might try that! Though the tile I used on my floor is black and white so there's only two squares of color per length...maybe I'll keep an eye on the sale fliers for hardware stores. Where each piece of tile meets can you tell or does it look pretty good? I'd be worried about water getting in there every time I showered since there would be a gap every 8 inches (or whatever size the tiles are)
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10-15-2010, 08:45 PM
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#14
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3 Rivet Member 
1975 31' Excella 500
undetermined
, Washington
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aage
MonaxLisa
Be careful if you decide to purchase this material. There are merchants that might sell you something purported to be the right insert nosing, and while it could be the right width, it's possible that it is too thick to actually fit in the aluminum channel, without being modified in some way.
I have 70' of it in my shed, waiting for the day that I either throw it out, or waste my time back-sanding it to make it fit.
Be sure to ask the seller BEFORE YOU BUY if it is an exact and proper replacement for the original factory nosing if you decide you want this product.
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Ouch! Maybe I wont even consider that, just to ward off any possible stress from that sort of issue.
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10-15-2010, 09:44 PM
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#15
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Rivet Master 
2006 25' Safari FB SE
1972 23' Safari
Houston
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,344
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Alsa Corp makes FX Sheeting in different styles, one I used that looks like Burl wood. I cut it in strips and used it to replace a lot of the old plastic woodgrain trim that was getting brittle. You buy it by the linear foot so it's good to get at lleast 4' so you have long strips to cut and work with. You can see the band around edge in lower right corner
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10-16-2010, 09:06 AM
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#16
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Rivet Master 
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill
, Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,010
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Trim
MonaxLisa
Just to be clear, I did not use the 12"x12" vinyl tile. I used vinyl flooring (ie: like linoleum). It is sold in 12' wide rolls. Since it is sold from a roll 12' wide and I did not want any seams in on the floor I had a considerable amount of left over. Which is what I used to do the trim. It does not have any joints, I cut it 1 1/16" wide and then cut it to the length I needed for each aluminum channel. Hope this makes sense.
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10-16-2010, 09:14 AM
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#17
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Rivet Master 
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TG Twinkie
MonaxLisa
Just to be clear, I did not use the 12"x12" vinyl tile. I used vinyl flooring (ie: like linoleum). It is sold in 12' wide rolls. Since it is sold from a roll 12' wide and I did not want any seams in on the floor I had a considerable amount of left over. Which is what I used to do the trim. It does not have any joints, I cut it 1 1/16" wide and then cut it to the length I needed for each aluminum channel. Hope this makes sense.
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Please be aware, that a one piece floor covering, will crack sideways at every 4 feet, because of the movement of the floor where it joins together.
That's why floor tiles are used and seamed at every 4 feet.
Andy
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10-16-2010, 11:51 AM
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#18
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3 Rivet Member 
1975 31' Excella 500
undetermined
, Washington
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TG Twinkie
MonaxLisa
Just to be clear, I did not use the 12"x12" vinyl tile. I used vinyl flooring (ie: like linoleum). It is sold in 12' wide rolls. Since it is sold from a roll 12' wide and I did not want any seams in on the floor I had a considerable amount of left over. Which is what I used to do the trim. It does not have any joints, I cut it 1 1/16" wide and then cut it to the length I needed for each aluminum channel. Hope this makes sense.
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Ohhhh, gottcha. I bet I could buy a remainder strip of that.
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10-16-2010, 05:51 PM
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#19
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Rivet Master 
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill
, Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,010
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One piece cracking
I used the type of vinyl floor covering that is not glued down, therefore the floor can float under it without causing any problem. I only used it in the bath and I don't have much more than four square feet let alone 4 linear feet. I agree with Andy, don't use the type that is glued down.
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10-16-2010, 05:51 PM
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#20
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2 Rivet Member 
1970 27' Overlander
Salt Lake
, Utah
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 20
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I have been unable to find a source for insert nosing of any kind. Where can you get it?
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