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Old 08-04-2021, 05:36 PM   #1
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Talking Seeking advice for total elect system replacement .

1986 Excella 34 shell off restoration. Want complete mod ernization to include 50 amp, solar, and rewire for everything. I have a blank canvass. Any suggestions for panel boxes, distribution panels, solid brands of converters etc and wiring schematics is desired. Budget for this is about 2k. Reasonable?. I have intellipower unit left from prev owner, and solar panels. All univolt and other converter equipment is gone.

How would some of you experienced folks approach such a project?. I'm open to suggestions and your "beware" stories if you have any!. Hopefully i will figure out how to log back on here to find your replies. Or e-mail me at ><. Thanks! Dan H.
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Old 08-04-2021, 07:09 PM   #2
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1958 26' Overlander
Battle Ground , Washington
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Here's what I did to get a start. First I did my research to decide what mechanicals I wanted to install. Part of that was the dimensional issues of where and if it will fit. Secondly to get the specs for amp rating to determine wire size.

I then did a list, by "room" to get an over all feel where loads would be. Note: I ran most of my circuits as separate dedicated runs. I only paired up some lighting (in the same 'room' and a couple 110v plugs. Of course all lighting is led.

I also determined that some circuits would be shore power only circuits since I knew I would not attempt to run some things off the batteries (AC, microwave (if I ever install one), circuit for frig (dual electric 12&120).

Here's my list to give you an idea of what I wanted to be able to reference as plans and work proceeded.


Because we were doing a vintage 58 and retaining the majority of the original cabinets and using original appliances with updated mechanicals I wanted to bury a lot of the wiring in the belly pan to minimize modifying cabinets. The junction boxes are open through the subfloor and buried in the cabinets/beds/banquette.

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If you decide to do this suggest going to 1.5 or 2" pvc conduit. I used 1" and bringing all that wiring to a main box gets cramped.

With a lot of electronics to install we decided to take advantage of the old wall panel heater face and hide it there. The new ducted furnace is under the kitchen sink.

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I also ran aluminum fuel tubing (5/8") through the wall and ceiling to get wiring to needed areas to make sure an future repairs/upgrades could be easily done without removing interior walls.,34277.html

Hope this helps you sort out your rejuvenation.
Harold & Rebecca

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Old 08-05-2021, 06:50 AM   #3
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1994 25' Excella
Waukesha , Wisconsin
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While it's possible to save a few pennies here and there doing the work yourself, I suspect that you're going to find your budget is not nearly enough to complete the project. The wiring and associated terminals are going to eat a good portion of the $2K you've allotted, and then you'll have things to procure like the 50-amp inlet, breaker panels (12vdc & 120vac), battery charger/converter, etc, etc.

Based on the work I did on my 25-ft Excella you could easily double your budget and still rip through it if you're not careful.

Be careful getting really low-cost devices as you build out the system, especially if any of them will be mounted in difficult-to-access locations. I've found with electrical components you often get what you pay for. Even low-cost terminals can cause problems - they simply don't have enough metal in them to hold a crimp connection long term.
1994 Excella 25 'Gertie' Follow the build on Gertie!
1999 Suburban LS 2500 w/7.4L V8 'Bert'
1974 GMC 4108a - Custom Coach Land Cruiser 'The Bus' (Sold)
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Old 08-08-2021, 01:22 PM   #4
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Thanks for the tips Richard. Any suggestions on pros / cons for the power units?. I'm researching the Parellax, WFCO, and PD combi 50 amp servive units. I have 500 ft of new 12/2 romex set aside, plenty of 8,10, and 12 awg primary wire for redoing the 12v systems. Biggest dilema for me before i rewire is detetmining whether to keep most of my runs outside of the walls or not. Any suggestions? How about power box location?. Im trying to move it to center by frig,... but is it better down on floor like many newer rigs or maybe up higher toward waist level or even in ceiling cabinet?.
Im using eurathane foam for insulation instead of FG batts,... for better sound proofing, structural integrity, and R values. Want as little wire in walls and ceiling as possible. Trying to determine circuit runs now to see if most can go underneath in conduit and pop up thru subflooring. Not committed to anything yet... but the desire is to make any future elect work possible without tearing apart interior. Maybe go with original design of wiring anbd just add 2 or 3 floor level junction boxes for down the road?. Any thoughts?. Do ppl really have many problems with 110 issues that require interior destruction to repair?. Whats the alternative ppl lean toward in redesigning if they start from scratch?
Thanks, Dan H.
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Old 08-08-2021, 01:45 PM   #5
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Harold, thanks for some great advice and well thought out plans. I'm looking closely at your approach and plans now. I can see already a few changes I need to consider in my original approach. I like the underside concept of running wiring and conduit. Will get back with you soon after I look closer at my possibilities. Dan H.
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Old 08-08-2021, 03:42 PM   #6
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2017 30' Classic
2022 Interstate 24X
Carlisle , Pennsylvania
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A "full up modern" approach is probably closer to $20K than $2K. I would suggest that either the budget or the expectations should be adjusted early. The further you get without an adjustment the crazier things will be in the end.

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Old 08-19-2021, 08:55 PM   #7
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1954 22' Safari
Bellefonte , Pennsylvania
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I am doing a full up new electrical system in my 1955 Safari renovation.
This diy project will cost me about $3000 for a solar panel, controller, inverter/charger, wiring, battery, panels, fuses, and fixtures for a 30 amp shore power system and a new 12V system (the '55 Safari was originally 120V shore power).
The inverter will automatically switch to running on shore power or the 12V solar/battery system.
The fridge is an old semi-original ammonia condenser that will run on propane or 120V.
I am not installing AC at this time but will be using the original 120V vent fans.
I will be happy to provide a list of my materials if you want.
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