One point to consider is if this AS will be a stationary trailer - or will see 1000's of miles of travel, secondary roads, gravel roads etc..
A concern with anything not metal on the ribs is* how to achieve the proper anchor for interior skin to work in concert with the true riveted exterior skin to make the eggshell monoque structure as immobile as possible.
The shear strength of a pop rivet succesfully installed and compressing two of more sheets of metal together gets multiplied by 12, 24, 36 other rivets on the same full length sheet of interior liner.
Allow a low density material insert a gap inbetween each of those riveted metal surfaces and under travel vibrations the pop rivets will rapidly loose their bite and accumulate movement; along with 'black rings' showing on the interior liners from aluminum dust and allow shell flex that will get transmitted to odd places away from the loose rivets.
anyhow - assembling panels by hand without using jigs and full rib curve clamps increases the likelihood on building slack in even without adding any thermal break.
Protecting the pinch point surrounding each rivet by inserting a large metal washer or rectangular shim; and increasing the number of fasteners might eliminate the weaknesses inserted by adding a thermal break.
Note, I have bulk high density silicone sheet waiting to cut strips out of, and rolls of the gnarliest 3M 'tar' adhesive I could find.. . And am still undecided how to best install a thermal break!!
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The days are short and the night is long and the stars go tumbling by.. . D. Witte
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