replacing interior - What is max. weight?

[happier]

I have a 1971 Overlander. What is the max. weight for all the interior structures? I plan on leaving the bath as is because it is in great shape, I just want to have in refinished. If I remove everything else, how much weight will I have to work with in the rebuild of my AS. I will add new cabinets, mattress, couch, stove, sink, etc. I need to know before I select replacements.

[87MH]

Originally Posted by happier

I have a 1971 Overlander. What is the max. weight for all the interior structures?....... I need to know before I select replacements.

That's a tough question. I have two cabinets in the garage - the 5' is 25 lbs and the 6' is 23 lbs.

Since you are going to take everything out anyway, why not weigh it after you gut it -- that way you will know for sure what your "base" weight is.

[dscluchfc]

Why not weigh it now....then weigh it after gutting and do a little math?
...just my 2 cents...

[happier]

Sounds easy, but where do I have it weighed? I live in a very rural area and am not near an interstate. I just thought those of you who performed an complete interior redo might have an idea about the available load limitations for the interior. I would also like to install a grey water tank since mine doesn't have one, and I know it will add additional weight. Any suggestions on where to place the grey water tank, maybe near the axels? Is there a vertical one I could place under or in something or a narrow one to fit easily between the floor beams? I would love several opinions. Thanks in advance for all your help.

[dscluchfc]

Rural.....as in farm country? Call a farmer...Someone has scales. Grain elevator...livestock auction...farm supply....feed store....call the County Registration and Title and ask them where people get vehicles weighed....they will know.
I got mine weighed at the local grain storage/feed/fertilizer store.

[59toaster]

Most bathroom scales will handle 280lb.

The answer is you build it as light as you possibly can.

There is a max weigh of the coach that is acceptable to the axles and frame and that weight needs to include you gear. The lighter you make things the more gear you can bring. The heaveier the less. If you exceed the max weight you could damage the coach.

You cannot build the cabinets like you would for your house. You have to build it light like Airstream did. You also have to watch your weight distribution. You want it to stay the same as it is unless you manage to make it lighter then the factory. Weight behind the axles needs to be watched. Sag, seperation are all weight related.

The galley for our couch that we are in the middle of a frame off weighs maybe 20lb with the sink and stove out of it. The bed frame was again maybe 25 with the plywood deck and drawer. THe qoucho was the pig. With deck it's probably 35 lb and then the cushions are probably another 20lb. Now my coach is older and known for being very light but that gives you and idea that not counting appliances the total interrior is under 350 including the empty black water and head. The appliances not counting A/C is probably another 200.

[happier]

Thanks for the weight issue answers.
Here is another question concerning the wall oven (1971 Overlander). Do you think I could safely move the wall oven under the stove top since I will be removing the old furnace. Do you think it will fit and have enough clearance? A rework of the cabinet is a must I know. As it stands, it takes up a lot of space over the mid bed and I would love to add a bunk in its place. I know I need enough clearance for the oven door to open. Do you think it is a good idea or not? All responces appreciated.

[wahoonc]

Originally Posted by happier

Thanks for the weight issue answers.
Here is another question concerning the wall oven (1971 Overlander). Do you think I could safely move the wall oven under the stove top since I will be removing the old furnace. Do you think it will fit and have enough clearance? A rework of the cabinet is a must I know. As it stands, it takes up a lot of space over the mid bed and I would love to add a bunk in its place. I know I need enough clearance for the oven door to open. Do you think it is a good idea or not? All responces appreciated.

Happier,
What I would do with the oven would be to sell it and the stove top to some desperate soul And replace them with a single unit stove/oven combo unit.
BTW why are you doing away with the furnace? It should be ducted to help keep the fresh water and black tank from freezing up.

Aaron

[happier]

The furnace hasn't been used for at least 10 years. I really don't know if it works or if it is safe. The air conditioner has heat built into it for warmth, but it hasn't been used in the winter. Consequently, it just takes up useable space.

Also, I live in the South where we rarely have prolonged periods of sub-freezing weather. The AS will have been winterized by then.

What could I sell a used stove and oven for anyway? They both work great - oven looks new.

[airgirl]

Did you remove the stove and if so how.

I am removing one in a 65 Safari and cant figure out how to get it out now that it unscrewed from the counter.

I would like to sell also, price??

Thank you.

[happier]

I haven't removed the stove yet, but when I do I will fully document the removal with pictures and instructions and post them on the forum.

[InsideOut]

Originally Posted by airgirl

Did you remove the stove and if so how.

I am removing one in a 65 Safari and cant figure out how to get it out now that it unscrewed from the counter.

We removed the stove in our '64 GlobeTrotter, probably the same as your '65 Safari if it's the original. There are 6 total screws to get the stove out...4 at the top (counter) plus two more (one on each side) inside the front door frame. These two attach into the cabinet base, not the counter top.

You may want to check out this thread, starting with post #143...there are pictures of my stoves, the restoration of it & also 53FC's restoration of his.

Hope this helps ~

Shari

[airgirl]

Thank you Shari,

I got all the screws out, except for one (which I hope isn't stripped) so hopefully your description on the connection will work for me. Is there any danager or is only thing to make sure of is that the gas is turned off?

I went to your web page and your layout is very similar to my 65 Safari.

I have another question on the floors. After the stove is out I want to work on the floor. Did you wear any protective mask/clothing when you took out the carpet and floor tile?

Thanks for your help, Kim

[InsideOut]

Originally Posted by airgirl

I have another question on the floors. After the stove is out I want to work on the floor. Did you wear any protective mask/clothing when you took out the carpet and floor tile?

The original 9"x9" tiles have asbestos in them. Appropriate protective apparel should be worn and the tiles should be disposed of properly.

There are several older threads with lots of information & links to other websites with information on the old vinyl asbestos tiles.

Good luck...it's a lot of work!

Shari

[airgirl]

Thank you Shari,

I got the stove out last night and was researching floor rehabbing yesterday.
You have posted a lot of good information. I was looking at your web page and it looks like you all had the same fabric as I do on the couchs. Don't think mine will be savable either, but maybe a little for pillows or a chair cushion.

Again thank you, lots of good info out there.

Kim

[InsideOut]

Glad you were able to get the stove out... It's really quite simple once you find those last two screws...huh?!

Originally Posted by airgirl

I was looking at your web page and it looks like you all had the same fabric as I do on the couchs. Don't think mine will be savable either, but maybe a little for pillows or a chair cushion.

If possible, save your guacho covers to use as patterns for your new covers...then make the pillows. It'll be much easier than making a pattern from scratch ~

Shari