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Old 08-12-2014, 06:43 AM   #61
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Thumbs up Mattress's

Would you mind giving me the name of the mattress company? Thank you.
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Old 08-12-2014, 11:13 AM   #62
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The Foam Zone in Victoria, BC.

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Old 08-27-2014, 02:49 PM   #63
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So the mattresses are just foam no springs? What is the thickness and density of the foam that you used? How do you sleep now? We're looking into replacing our two mattress, the ones that came in the trailer from Airstream with springs in them.
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Old 08-28-2014, 07:15 AM   #64
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We omitted the factory Classic twin mattresses and left them there in Ohio. We had ordered the Rocky Mountain mattress company 8" mattress before for our 25FB and thus ordered the custom shaped twins at 8". We could have ordered up to 10" thick and not been above the bedside table. Note that twins can be made up to 12" longer for the taller folks.

We also ordered the Airstream 600 thread custom sheets and they fit the 8" mattress perfectly in both trailers. They might work on a 9" as well.
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Old 08-28-2014, 09:42 AM   #65
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Very interesting thread with some really wonderful work being performed. Well done!
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Old 08-28-2014, 10:03 AM   #66
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We will either get a 25 with twin beds or a Winnebago View like this:

Winnebago Motorhomes - 2014 View & View Profile - Bedroom And Bathroom
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Old 08-29-2014, 05:02 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Julie-Bob View Post
So the mattresses are just foam no springs? What is the thickness and density of the foam that you used? How do you sleep now? We're looking into replacing our two mattress, the ones that came in the trailer from Airstream with springs in them.

Yes.

Just Medium density foam mattresses. Way more comfortable than the factory supplied spring coil mattress.

- Evan


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Old 11-20-2014, 09:20 AM   #68
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MissingLink5

We are in the process of changing our 25' Safari SS, year 2006, from a double bed to bunk beds. With the configuration of the SS you can hardly get into the bathroom because the door won't open very far and the person sleeping on the outside has to crawl over the one on the inside to get out of bed. We are using 1-1/2" square aluminum for the legs, ladder and top frame. We used the material from the bottom double to build the twin bottom support. I think we will really like it when we are all through. We will even have enough room by the bed to turn around and a sitting area to put on our shoes. More later!!!
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Old 11-20-2014, 10:05 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by MissingLink5 View Post
We are in the process of changing our 25' Safari SS, year 2006, from a double bed to bunk beds. With the configuration of the SS you can hardly get into the bathroom because the door won't open very far and the person sleeping on the outside has to crawl over the one on the inside to get out of bed. We are using 1-1/2" square aluminum for the legs, ladder and top frame. We used the material from the bottom double to build the twin bottom support. I think we will really like it when we are all through. We will even have enough room by the bed to turn around and a sitting area to put on our shoes. More later!!!

That sounds very interesting.

Please post pics.

-evan
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Old 04-14-2015, 02:16 PM   #70
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Interesting to hear the views on this thread. Good points. I have twin beds and have been wishing I had queen. Thanks to everyone, now I will just be happy with the twins.
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Old 04-15-2015, 07:08 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MissingLink5 View Post
We are in the process of changing our 25' Safari SS, year 2006, from a double bed to bunk beds. With the configuration of the SS you can hardly get into the bathroom because the door won't open very far and the person sleeping on the outside has to crawl over the one on the inside to get out of bed. We are using 1-1/2" square aluminum for the legs, ladder and top frame. We used the material from the bottom double to build the twin bottom support. I think we will really like it when we are all through. We will even have enough room by the bed to turn around and a sitting area to put on our shoes. More later!!!
So... how are things shaping up with your bunk bed conversion?

-evan
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Old 02-25-2016, 04:44 PM   #72
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Evan,

Great post, I will use this as a go-by for my own 25FB conversion. A few questions: what is the blue sheet material that you used against the aluminum wall, and is it structural? Also, did you apply laminate to any of your new construction, and if so how did you match factory laminate?

Thanks,

Bill
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Old 02-26-2016, 06:51 AM   #73
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Evan,

Great post, I will use this as a go-by for my own 25FB conversion. A few questions: what is the blue sheet material that you used against the aluminum wall, and is it structural? Also, did you apply laminate to any of your new construction, and if so how did you match factory laminate?

Thanks,

Bill
Thanks Bill,

The blue material along the walls under the beds is closed cell backpacking sleep mat material. It's light, has a high R value & relatively cheap.

Re Laminate? I did not try to match the factory laminate as I re-did all the countertops in the unit. We wanted something a little darker & replacing it all was a better option, or so we thought. (It's quite challenging to stick the new laminate over the old. It's actually much easier just to replace the plywood using the old countertops as a cutting guide, & apply new laminate to that.)

- evan

PS. All the wood grain laminates were recycled from the queen bed stand etc.
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Old 05-14-2016, 06:39 AM   #74
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Found your post and pictures while searching for some ideas to convert our 30' FC Queen to Twins. Have lots of planning left to do as our main and only outside storage is under the current queen and open to the inside of the trailer. So new flooring for that area etc. Plus we have two closets on either side of the bed, floor to ceiling.

BUT, I did want to again thank you and add what a terrific job you did and appreciate the post and information.

Bud
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Old 05-14-2016, 11:08 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paiceman View Post
Found your post and pictures while searching for some ideas to convert our 30' FC Queen to Twins. Have lots of planning left to do as our main and only outside storage is under the current queen and open to the inside of the trailer. So new flooring for that area etc. Plus we have two closets on either side of the bed, floor to ceiling.

BUT, I did want to again thank you and add what a terrific job you did and appreciate the post and information.

Bud
Thanks Bud.

I appreciate your comments. Good luck on your remodelling.

-evan
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Old 05-16-2016, 08:41 AM   #76
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Note that the factory installed twins in our 31' Classic have a board for the mattress that is about 4" away from the back wall of the trailer and probably 8" to 10" away from the wall at the foot of the bed. That means taller folks can make the bed as long as necessary to sleep fully extended.

If we knew then what we know now, we would have made the twin mattresses 4" longer to fit from the back wall to the foot of the mattress support board.
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Old 05-02-2017, 12:00 PM   #77
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We had twin mattress made at Mattress Factory Inc. in Phoenix 602-272-9871. Jim or Toni are owners They make the mattress in front of you so you know what in it. Also they build a temp bed for you so you know what your purchasing not like on line orders. Great folks greater price.
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Old 07-18-2020, 12:07 AM   #78
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Old 10-18-2020, 08:34 PM   #79
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Thanks for the very helpful pictures. What a beautiful job you did. I am just starting to convert our 25 FC FB queen to twins. Two questions: 1. what did you do to support the cut off hanging closet, and did you take it off the wall to cut it down. Is it supported just from the bathroom wall? 2. On the other twin did you attach the cross support to the airstream wall, and if so how do you find the studs, and finally what kind of plywood for the bed, 3/4, 1/2 or 3/8

Thanks for any help or hints.

John
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Old 10-19-2020, 07:49 PM   #80
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Hi John Santa,

Thank you for your compliments.

I no longer have the Airstream as we bought a boat; but, from memory I believe the decking on the beds was with ⅝ plywood with 1x2 crossmembers underneath in addition to the vertical plywood dividers for the under bunk storage.

The Closet was removed to cut it down. I used a skill saw with a clamp down guide to keep the cut straight and masking tape along the kerf to keep it from chipping out. It worked well.

The Closet was then screwed to the bathroom wall and if I remember correctly, screwed to frame through the interior skin. It was very solid once in place.

Good luck with your project.

-evan
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