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04-06-2011, 08:06 AM
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#1
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Rivet Master 
1967 24' Tradewind
Greenville
, South Carolina
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,107
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Painting Rear bath options
Will soon be reassembling my rear bath Tradewind and want to paint everything everything prior to reassembly. One problem is that the rear bath has a few different materials and conditions to be addressed. There is plastic of unknown composition (ABS?), fiberglass counter with integrated sink, fiberglass tub/shower, fiberglass endcap. I've seen where some have used tub refinishing products to do the tub and or sink. Anybody done the entire bathroom with this product plastic and endcap included. Thinking that the endcap needs to have a fairly tough finish since it also serves as the upper part of the shower wall. Might get kinda of pricey buying multiple bathroom kits to paint all this, so open to all suggestions. Also, application methods.
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04-06-2011, 08:09 AM
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#2
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Site Team
1974 31' Sovereign
Ottawa
, ON
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 11,219
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hoot,
One thing I will tell you about those kits from doing a bathroom in a home we sold is this: use a good sprayer to put it on, or you WILL see distinct brush marks, no matter how many coats you put on.
__________________
“Courage is being scared to death, but saddling up anyway.” ...John Wayne...........................
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04-06-2011, 08:13 AM
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#3
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x
XXXX
, XXXX
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,601
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Silver hoot I have used and so have others the Krylon Fusion paint for plastics available from Wall Mart in spray cans. It does a fantastic job adhereing to plastic and the finish is smooth. Others have used it and it has lasted for years, even for the sink. I actually have painted my entire interior with it, that is all the vinyl clad skins on the inside of the shell.
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04-06-2011, 08:16 AM
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#4
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Rivet Master 
1967 24' Tradewind
Greenville
, South Carolina
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,107
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Sprayer
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aage
hoot,
One thing I will tell you about those kits from doing a bathroom in a home we sold is this: use a good sprayer to put it on, or you WILL see distinct brush marks, no matter how many coats you put on.
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Thanks for the tip. Don't want brush marks.
I have a little sprayer, it being a Good sprayer is unknown. It came from Harbor Freight. Or maybe you were talking about the operator, my paint spraying experience other than rattle cans is about zilch.
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04-06-2011, 08:50 AM
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#5
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TorpedoFamily

Currently Looking...
2014 30' Classic
Currently Looking...
Ozark
, Alabama
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 113
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Use Sem Paint, I painted the bath in my Argosy and when I sold it four years later it was still nice. Sem comes in any color. Semproducts.com
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04-06-2011, 04:20 PM
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#6
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Rivet Master 
1973 27' Overlander
Tucson
, AZ
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,485
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wasagachris
Silver hoot I have used and so have others the Krylon Fusion paint for plastics available from Wall Mart in spray cans. It does a fantastic job adhereing to plastic and the finish is smooth. Others have used it and it has lasted for years, even for the sink. I actually have painted my entire interior with it, that is all the vinyl clad skins on the inside of the shell.
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Pics of the painted interior ??
Laura
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04-06-2011, 05:53 PM
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#7
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x
XXXX
, XXXX
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,601
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04-06-2011, 07:19 PM
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#8
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Rivet Master 
1968 24' Tradewind
Oxford,
, Mississippi
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 1,564
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Hoot,
I used a 2 part epoxy on the sink and tub. Got it as Sherwin Williams. I think the name was Tile Doc and it is for painting tubs and tile. Worked great and the finish is very tough. For the plastic around the base or the tub, the medicine cabinet, the end behind the toilet, I used Fusion. The fiberglass end cap was OK so I just cleaned it and reinstalled it.
A few tips on the the epoxy paint. I used the "make your own" spray can system, PreVal I think was the name. If you have a small HVLP spray rig that would be best but the self powered kit worked fine after I got the hang of it. You will need some solvent to clean your gun and to thin the mix as it is too thick to spray and will leave globs. Thinned it sprays well. Rough up the surfaces to give it a little "tooth" and use several light coats. The coverage is good but be sure to wear a good carbon respirator. The fumes from the epoxy paint are really bad. If you get a run you can let it dry for a day, wet sand the run out and give it another shot. I don't think the Fusion would be tough enough for the sink and tub, just my opinion.
__________________
__________________
Bruce & Rachel
__________________
68 Trade Wind
2001 Toyota Tundra
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04-06-2011, 07:37 PM
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#9
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Rivet Master 
1976 Argosy 24
now being enjoyed by Heath and Mary in
, Vermont
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,432
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Silverhoot,
I painted the entire bath – walls, ceiling and shower pan – in POR 15 White Coat.
It is clean lined and beautiful looking in pure bathroom white, hard as porcelain.
Four years later it is still in perfect condition.
You can see how everything was done from post #117 to #165
here:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f227...e-18448-9.html
Sergei
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04-06-2011, 08:39 PM
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#10
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Rivet Master 
Commercial Member
1957 30' Sovereign of the Road
1959 28' Ambassador
1949 24' Limited
Peru
, New York
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 746
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverHoot
Will soon be reassembling my rear bath Tradewind and want to paint everything everything prior to reassembly. One problem is that the rear bath has a few different materials and conditions to be addressed. There is plastic of unknown composition (ABS?), fiberglass counter with integrated sink, fiberglass tub/shower, fiberglass endcap. I've seen where some have used tub refinishing products to do the tub and or sink. Anybody done the entire bathroom with this product plastic and endcap included. Thinking that the endcap needs to have a fairly tough finish since it also serves as the upper part of the shower wall. Might get kinda of pricey buying multiple bathroom kits to paint all this, so open to all suggestions. Also, application methods.
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Silverhoot,
As you can well imagine, I have refinished numerous Airstream bathroom components, including endcaps, black water tank covers, sinks, tubs & shower stalls. My approach has always been to have all on the components out of the trailer (with the exception of endcaps) in order to apply the paint. I have used PPG products on the recommendation of a painter I employed with over 30 years of automotive paint experience. All of these components should be prepped with 240 grit & 400 grit "wet & dry" sandpaper, then cleaned with paint thinner & a "tack rag". The next step is to spray a coat of ppg "Plastics adhesion promoter" (used on plastic auto bumpers). Then I apply several coats of either acrylic enamel or acrylic urethane. I prefer the two part, single stage variety as it gives you a hard surface that can be wet sanded & buffed if necessary down the road. I typically take an original bathroom component with me to the Automotive Paint Supply store so they can computer match the color by taking a reading from the back of the component, as this will give you the true original color. They can however blend any color you want.
Done right, your bathroom will look better than new. I've included several before & after photos of components I've done. Keep in mind that spray cans of any sort don't produce a finish that is very thick or durable. This is likely to be the one chance you get to apply good quality products to your bathroom while it's apart, so do it the best you can.
Good luck,
Colin
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04-06-2011, 08:42 PM
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#11
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4 Rivet Member 
1963 16' Bambi
Stevens Point
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 318
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Hoot,
I used an off the shelf ( forgot the brand) white appliance epoxy on the fiberglass shower pan. Worked great, no brush marks and you don't have to buy or clean a sprayer.
Tim
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04-07-2011, 08:31 AM
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#12
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Rivet Master 
1967 24' Tradewind
Greenville
, South Carolina
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,107
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Really nice looking paint jobs. I have already purchased a couple of Rustoleum bathtub and tile refinishing kits ($29.95 ea.) that are supposed to cover between 70 to 110 sq. ft. with two coats. Really like the look of Colin's and Sergie's bath redo's. I'm not going to try and match existing color but instead going with white and will spray with a small HPLP from HF. I have only used it once before on the bib of an FJ40 and the results were good for my first time using a spray gun. This is a much larger job though and my gun is a detail gun, which I think just means the capacity and the spray pattern are smaller. I think it will still work, with more refills and more passes. Everything to be painted is removed including the endcap.
Colin or Sergie,
Do you have any idea how much paint you used to do the entire bath area including the endcap? I'm a little worried two of the kits may not be enough and if too many kits are required might be more cost effective to use Colin or Sergie's method of refinishing.
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