Newbie with a stupid question. About switches and wire locations.

[Sardog]

I hate to be that guy, but I need to know in my 1969 Airstream 25' TradeWind, what do the two switches on the wall do. I assume one is for the scare light that won't come on and don't have any idea what the other is for.
Additionally I have gutted and mostly remodeled the interior starting with ensuring either the wires were in great shape or replacing them. However I have found a group of 4 wires; red, black grey and green behind the refrigerator that I can't get any power readings on? I currently have hacked into my 12v outlet to the right of the fridge which has a two prong connection that I have no idea what it's for, just to power up the new fridge read outs.
If you can help me clear these little mysteries up I'd greatly appreciate it.

[drboyd]

We're gonna need pictures.

[xrvr]

No stupid questions, we all have the need to know! The experts will help you, pictures or a better description of where the switches are will help. Which wall? Jim

[Sardog]

These are the two switches.

[mimiandrews]

Our '66 Safari has two switches--one for the water pump and one for the scare light. Both are unlabeled.

[Sardog]

this is the outlet.
As for the rest of those wires I've got the front control panel apart fixing things correctly (undoing previous owners repairs) I've traced them all back there.

[Sardog]

Originally Posted by mimiandrews

Our '66 Safari has two switches--one for the water pump and one for the scare light. Both are unlabeled.

Water pump is included in the control panel, and I'm sure you're right about one of them being the scare light, but I'm hoping someone can tell me which one. Thanks for the response.

[nm1oqrz]

Hello Sardog. On my 88 25' Excella there are 2 switches on the galley wall by the door. 1 is for the scare light and the other is for the light on the outside over the door and the small round light that lights up the step.
Hope this helps
Happy camping nm1oqrz

[mccrosti]

the outlet is your old fashioned 12 volt. The only stupid questions are the ones that are unasked.

[mccrosti]

Sorry, the little thing with two prongs is you TV antenna outlet, so you could watch the Honeymooners on Saturday night.

[Protagonist]

Considering that you've gotten multiple conflicting answers to the question, it's not a stupid question, it's a pop quiz! I personally would have failed that quiz.

[Mixter]

On mine, I have the 2 switches inside the door also, PLUS I have another one just forward of the window next to the door that does the scare light.

Next to the door, 1 does the light over the sink, the other is unknown... as I have not yet gotten to the wiring on my resto.

The red, green, black and grey behind the fridge... could that be the thermostat for the AC?

[Sardog]

Ok, the switch towards the front in the teal color is definitely the scare light. As for the two prong outlet, I think after hearing responses, and remembering antenna wire pre-coaxial, that sounds right looking at the wires. Already loving this forum!

[putback]

IF you have an exterior 110V receptacle it should be switched. That could be 1 of the 2.

[flygrrl]

Did the '69's have a switch for the air compressor to pressurize the water tank? My '62 has the old steel tank with the compressor and switch, and it is in this location (well, between the front window and the door). The 12v one sure looks like the TV and antenna socket.
Don't ya love a mystery?
Leonie

[Sardog]

I've without question figured out the forward most switch, the 12v outlet and dual socket is definitely the TV antenna I got on top to fix a leak and find out how much of the antenna was still there to be removed. Found quite the sculpture, lol,

So I just patched it up, the blue is just a bit of silicone to ensure the rivets don't cause an issue.

[Mixter]

You mean "sealant" or "silicone".... you do know Silicone is a big no-no, right?

Did you use pop rivets on that patch?

[Sardog]

Originally Posted by Mixter

You mean "sealant" or "silicone".... you do know Silicone is a big no-no, right?

Did you use pop rivets on that patch?

Pop rivets are all I've got, so I filled the center tube of the rivet with RTV. I was under the belief that the newer RTV formulas only contain enough acetic acid to etch the aluminum whereas the older formulas contained too much free acid and would cause an electrolysis issue that I am all too familiar with from my experience with aluminum Coast Guard boats. Admittedly I switched all the possible uses for Silicone over to 3M 5200 on the boats but I don't think it'll hurt. However I will drill the rivets if there's a more effective route and if I'm dead wrong about the lower acid levels I'll scrape the RTV as well. This is my first Airstream as an adult I want to do a good job on it, the 1971 Airstream I bought at 17yrs old I'm sure I botched everything on.

[Mixter]

Check out vintagetrailersupply.com and look at their sealant and rivet selection.

For sealant, I think you'll find an overwhelming majority opposition to using anything other than a polyurethane sealant, and more specifically vulkem, sikaflex or equivalent. I think most are using Vulkem, or a current version of it. It is a commercial grade of polyurethane sealant, so I found an equivalent I like at a local contractors sealant and adhesive supply store near me. VTS sells the vulkem/ trempro. There are also other favorites such as sikaflex. Then there is sealant designed for the "small" seams like parbond or Acryl-R. That said, I use my polyurethane sealant for everything.

For Rivets: Most people are using the Olympic rivets if there is no access to the back side. They are water tight pop- style/ blind rivets that match the original rivets when shaved. You can shave them with a dremel in lieu of the matching shaver tool.

That said, using solid rivets is a factory fix. Its not that hard, and can be used in many areas as things get fixed and/ or replaced. This requires access to the back side, which means you many have to take apart a few things on the inside, but its a nice way to go if it is reasonable. To do solid rivets you'll need a riveting hammer and a bucking bar and a helper. I bought my riveting hammer from Harbor Freight for around $60 with coupon. Not sure if they still offer it- last I looked I didnt see it. You can also try ebay to pick up a used "pro" gun for less than $100. Official bucking bar is around $15 I think. But a nice heavy piece of iron works just fine.

Have fun and keep us posted.

[Sardog]

Great info, harbor Freight is right down the road I'll look into the rivets. As for the Sealant I've got some more work to do around the base and on the front of the unit I'll definitely look to something like what you're talking about. This is a fun project that I look forward to camping with. Thanks again for your insight and help.