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Old 08-25-2008, 07:59 PM   #21
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Question which will be best

Quote:
Originally Posted by GreatPumpkin View Post
It looks interesting, but I would love to see some real life testing - some of the examples in his infomercial didn't look that great.

Make sure and post plenty of pictures and testimony on how it looks and holds up.
Just this past weekend I used plain old aluminum paint on these, maybe I'll paint one with this stuff and see which looks and holds up better.
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Old 08-25-2008, 08:38 PM   #22
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hmmm...wonder how that would work on a rusty stove-top.
I sent them an email about using it on a cooktop the first time the topic came up. They advised that the cooktop should have all the rust removed but that it would hold up to the heat. However, over time it will get light browning around the burner tray "as all stainless will do".
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Old 08-25-2008, 08:59 PM   #23
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This company has sprayable aluminum, bronze, copper etc. It is a little more technical in application but the results are fantastic. I took the training class in Denver last year and was thoroughly impressed.

www.luminore.com

Rick, in the beautiful Black Hills of Dakota
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Old 08-26-2008, 09:51 AM   #24
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Red face oops!

Quote:
Originally Posted by soldiermedic View Post
This product was discussed awhile ago in this thread.

Happy reading.

Steve
Thanks Steve!
I usually search for info before posting, sorry I skipped that step this time
Maybe a moderator will decide to merge this one into the original thread?

The thread is interesting, but it looks like we still have no info on how it really turns out (or holds up).

Judy and Bob, and Robert, looking forward to hearing from you after you try out your samples
I have a couple of items I am thinking of trying it on, if I do I will post about it.
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Old 08-26-2008, 10:13 AM   #25
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Thumbs up Wow! This looks super!

Quote:
Originally Posted by 310astream View Post
This company has sprayable aluminum, bronze, copper etc. It is a little more technical in application but the results are fantastic. I took the training class in Denver last year and was thoroughly impressed.

www.luminore.com

Rick, in the beautiful Black Hills of Dakota
Thank you Rick! This product looks VERY interesting and yields beautiful results, wow!

I wish this was something I could do, I have MANY applications in the house we are renovating that Luminore is perfect for. I wonder what the start-up costs would be? Maybe I should set myself up in business

Did you know they now offer online training? You can see it here (password protected so I only saw the intro) Luminore VT

Thanks again for sharing this Rick!
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Old 09-03-2008, 04:11 PM   #26
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Thumbs up Liquid Stainless



Recieved the paint and clearcoat today.

This was the only brush on clear topcoat I was able to find. Will be using the clear over the door hinges that I painted recently,(not with the stainless paint.)

My next project will be the filiform. Will up-date when done.
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Old 09-03-2008, 04:25 PM   #27
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Cool keep us posted I have a bunch of stuff I could paint with this.... If it works

Sorry your the ginny pig...

If it turns out to be crap, Maybe would should send you a little something for your trouble.............
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Old 10-30-2008, 12:31 PM   #28
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Have we seen any results on this yet? I'm very curious about trying on the fridge and stove.
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Old 10-30-2008, 01:49 PM   #29
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I saw someone use this on one of the home shows. looked quite nice.
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Old 10-30-2008, 03:05 PM   #30
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Sounds great,maybe I could get rid of the painted water heater door on one of my Airstreams.Waiting for results.Dave
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Old 11-01-2008, 04:36 PM   #31
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Decide for Yourself.


This is how two areas of filiform looks after using the Stainless Paint.

First off it's a water based paint, not the easiest to get right. Took some trial and error. Nice thing about water based it's a lot quicker correcting the opps. It wasn't easy, judge for yourself.
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Old 01-14-2009, 09:43 PM   #32
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This is my first post but I hope to contribute more as we update our 87 Sovereign.

In the meantime, I found some more examples of the use of Thomas Liquid Stainless Steel

Judy
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Old 06-23-2011, 01:12 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post

This is how two areas of filiform looks after using the Stainless Paint.

First off it's a water based paint, not the easiest to get right. Took some trial and error. Nice thing about water based it's a lot quicker correcting the opps. It wasn't easy, judge for yourself.
Here's the update almost 3yrs later...

I was a little concerned about the durability of the water based Stainless paint and clearcoat.

On the plus side...If you compare these photo's that I took today with the previous posts you can see that the attempted "repair" held up pretty well.
Even more important, the fact that the occurrence of new outbreaks has slowed dramatically. PTL

Down side....it's not a great texture match. But better than any standard paint Iv'e tried.

BTW....never did clearcoat the door hinges, sealed with Griot's Paint Sealer instead.
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Old 09-28-2011, 11:36 AM   #34
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Bob,

Came across this thread when search to see if anyone had used "Thomas
Liquid SS."

My door hinges, door handle and battery box frames are rather messed up with corrosion and I am planning to use the Thomas product to refinish
them - once I have used wet/dry paper to remove the corrosion.

I contacted Thomas and - as I guess you have proven - said it would be ok for outdoor use.

I asked if I would put it directly on the sanded aluminum or if a primer should be used.

They suggested a "Primer suitable for aluminum." I don't know if there is special primer for aluminum but will check around.

Just wondering if you used any special primer?


Brian.
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Old 09-28-2011, 12:28 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wingeezer View Post
Bob,

I asked if I would put it directly on the sanded aluminum or if a primer should be used.

They suggested a "Primer suitable for aluminum." I don't know if there is special primer for aluminum but will check around.

Just wondering if you used any special primer?


Brian.
I have never used the liquid stainless steel but it sounds pretty good.

If I had it handy I would use an acid etching primer. But, if you don't have it you will probably need to buy at least a gallon and maybe have it shipped.

Otherwise I would use some fine emery paper to get some tooth for the paint to hang on to.
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Old 09-28-2011, 12:56 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wingeezer View Post
Bob,

Came across this thread when search to see if anyone had used "Thomas
Liquid SS."

My door hinges, door handle and battery box frames are rather messed up with corrosion and I am planning to use the Thomas product to refinish
them - once I have used wet/dry paper to remove the corrosion.

I contacted Thomas and - as I guess you have proven - said it would be ok for outdoor use.

I asked if I would put it directly on the sanded aluminum or if a primer should be used.

They suggested a "Primer suitable for aluminum." I don't know if there is special primer for aluminum but will check around.

Just wondering if you used any special primer?


Brian.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lumatic View Post
I have never used the liquid stainless steel but it sounds pretty good.

If I had it handy I would use an acid etching primer. But, if you don't have it you will probably need to buy at least a gallon and maybe have it shipped.

Otherwise I would use some fine emery paper to get some tooth for the paint to hang on to.
Brain & Lumatic

Check out post's 467, 489 & 493 on this thread for what I did for the hinge's and battery box surround.

I have only used the LSS on the filiform corrosion, I'll try and find it, it's somewhere on the "corrosion" thread.

NOPE....it's rite here on post #31.

Bob
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Old 09-29-2011, 06:05 AM   #37
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Bob,

Those pics look great. I wasn't clear though, on the battery box surrounds, are they just highly polished back to plain aluminum or did you just wet/dry paper them to get them really smooth again and then paint them with something?

I can't keep my trailer at home and so probably won't invest the time that you did - my plan is to try to sand off all the corrosion, give the rest a light sanding, then hand paint with then LSS.

I do have a couple of small airbrushes - not sure if i will try spraying the paint or using small brushes. LSS show brush applications on their website that turn out looking good.

Since it is pretty much all hand work, I was thinking to gather the supplies and take it with me when we head to Florida this winter to pick away at - course the Mrs always gets ticked off when I do that, she figures we should be always out going places, but I enjoy tinkering!

I guess it will be important to tape well around the items when sanding, I'm concerned about damaging the trailer skin.

LSS is hard to find here in Canada but I think I have found a place that can get it for me. LSS won't ship to customers outside US.

I am still checking to find a suitable primer - looks like Rust-Oleum sell an aluminum primer, but once more, so far I have not found it locally. What's wrong with us up here in the frozen north?!

Brian

PS - I have no doubt that the Honey Brown helped, but I have a strong preference for IPA's - we'll see how that works out!
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Old 09-29-2011, 06:20 AM   #38
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Zinc chromate is a good primer available at most hardware or big box stores. Sal.
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Old 09-29-2011, 06:34 AM   #39
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"Those pics look great. I wasn't clear though, on the battery box surrounds, are they just highly polished back to plain aluminum or did you just wet/dry paper them to get them really smooth again and then paint them with something?"


Brian,

No paint on the battery surrounds, sanded as described, polished, then coated with Griot's Paint Sealer.
The sealer works great on the whole trailer also.
Masking well is a must, I used several layers of blue painters tape.

Bob
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Old 09-29-2011, 06:54 AM   #40
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Quote:
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Zinc chromate is a good primer available at most hardware or big box stores. Sal.
Thanks, I'll follow up on that!

Brian.
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