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bwaysteve · 10-20-2010, 07:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JSTOTT

Really looking good. The tail lights, the polish, it is really coming together. I agree, it is nice to be cooling down. I know I felt a lot better when the floor went in. Keep up the great work!

Russ

Thanks Russ! Thanks for the primer on restoring the tail housings.I think they might look as good as yours!With this under my belt working on the bath area will be a breeze. Steve

bwaysteve · 10-29-2010, 07:52 PM

Making really good progress.I did the floor alone with my trusty red jack,so it is a one man job if need be.The tail light pic is for JStott(thanks Russ) I plumbed the tanks,did some insulation,and almost finished with the floor(Please God don't ever make me do that again)I did notice the shell was not moving around the door and descovered 4 skin rivets on either side of the step I had not removed.
I am securing all the floor with the appropriate bolts and screws. The Prodex comes Monday.I also fashioned a water dam in the rear by running some .032 between the rear skin.Hopefully this angle will channel the standing bumper water off the sides.The serrated edges will be covered by the new bumper lid and piano hinge to open.Found some great stranded wire with a deal for cash.
I can only say going to Airforums U. has been invaluable.So many who have been there and done that have helped prevent costly mistakes,and given many great original ideas for making my Airstream better than new.Thanks to all !

VIKING · 10-30-2010, 02:11 PM

Steve, you're making great progress. Doesn't it feel wonderful when the floor goes down!
I didn't see a picture of the reinforcements you made to the rear, other than the bracket you welded on from the frame to the short outrigger. Did you add bolts through the frame rails, floor and c-channel where they intersect at either side of the rear access door? Mine was not originally bolted through there so I drilled through it all and put a 5/16" stainless bolt with fender washers and lock washers through both frame rails to add beef to the connection. If you don't have bolts there I recommend considering it before the insulation starts going in back there. With all of the rear end issues we hear about it just seems like a simple way to help prevent it from starting.
Where did you end up getting your tanks from?

Lookin' good!

Rich the Viking

bwaysteve · 10-30-2010, 07:38 PM

Got my tanks from Ronco and they were great people to work with.Uwe suggested them and together we found a model off the shelf,both 27 gallons.They have a substantial lip all around so I was able to drop them in home made angle bracket that can be unbolted in I ever need to get the tank out.It did feel great getting the floor in.Bolts all go in next week.I did have the strap going between the frame in the rear.In addition to the 2 angles I welded in for the back side corners,I also think that aluminum L under the rear skin will help.Andy posted a pic of a curved piece of steel that follows the back curve dropped in the c channel and bolted through to hold the floor and skin tight.
Must do all I can at this stripped stage to improve the design to fight the possible sag and water problems.I love my little red jack!
It will be fun to start working on rewire and plumbing.The heavy lifting is over.
I considered putting my fresh water tank under the floor after I saw Uwe's installation at the restoration rally in ABQ in June but am going in stock position.Will get that tank from Ronco also.Where is your blog with all your work?I have not been able to locate it.Thanks Viking!

VIKING · 10-31-2010, 12:04 PM

It's been such a long time since I was able to do any work on the Safari that just seeing the long-neglected blog link in my signature line was getting to be a depressing reminder. When /if I do get back into it I'll bring back the blog also. Here's a link to it for your reference.
1964 Airstream Safari

I've also seen where an L bracket was welded or bolted onto the side of the frame and bolted through the c channel and floor to strengthen the area at the back. It just seemed easier to drill through the frame and c channel and run bolts right into the frame, rather than adding a bracket.

Best to you,
Rich the Viking

marzboy · 11-09-2010, 10:05 PM

Wow! This looks familiar.....

I have dreams about being as far along as you. I have also contacted Uwe about tanks. I think I am going out to see his shop sometime soon. He seem like a pretty cool guy. I wish I could go with the shell on option but the rear street support is completely gone. I have to re weld the entire rear end.
Keep up the good work, Ill be watching! Oh and thanks for posting pics, I had to jack a couple of the bathroom set up.

bwaysteve · 01-09-2011, 08:21 PM

Here I am today.It's hard to believe I had the interior stripped out at this point last year.
I am doing it right and no hurry ,although things are moving a little faster now.The pics show the first later of prodex and the styrofoam blocks to hold the top layer for the air space.Also pictured some one inch grommets I installed I got from VTS.Next is wiring!!!

wasagachris · 01-09-2011, 08:29 PM

Steve FANTASTIC. That's the cleanest inside of a shell I've ever seen. Absolutely beautiful installation of the prodex. Is the first layer glued right to the shell? Are you planning to seal the second layer with aluminium tape? I am planning to insulate with prodex myself. I have only done my belly so far and won't get to the shell until spring.

bwaysteve · 01-09-2011, 11:24 PM

Thanks!The Prodex is cut and sealed to the shell with an adhesive I got from Prodex.(case of 12 tubes)I ran out and am using Sealmate to affix the styrofoam strips which I cut from 1" 4x8 sheets 1" wide on my table saw.The job was super repetitive and boring after awhile.The top sheets when cut will fit into slots created from the 1"strips to make a tight fit.Not sure how much tape I will use.I did use it in places and seams on the first layer.I also used scrap as much as possible so I have very little waste(maybe 1 square yard so far) in little pieces.I received two rolls from Prodex(about 700 square ft.) and used 1 roll and maybe 5 ft. of the new roll .Time is lengthy as I work alone ,but the floor and the insulation are probably bigger jobs than anything else, so it should move along now.When I didn't have any money for the project I did polishing ,so 3/4 of the coach is polished already.I have done all the emblems ,beltlines,rub rails,and powder coated the vents for the WH and Furnace.
I got much inspiration from Ambie 64 and his shell off Ambassador redux.Check his posts.

Ambie '64 · 01-10-2011, 06:23 AM

Well Steve, that certainly looks familiar! You're doing a great job! I agree with you on the sheer tediousness of doing the insulation, but you'll definitely be able to tell a difference in the finished system. Since I'm in holding mode, you've caught up with me and now I'm going to be following your lead on wiring. Keep up the good work!

bwaysteve · 01-10-2011, 12:36 PM

Hey Ambie,
Hope all is OK in OK.I was able to snag some great stranded wire from a Wire guy here in Irving I went to high school with.Got a decent price.I am thinking I may not have enough Prodex to finish the floor area,but mostly concerned about finishing the interior.I am ordering today a combo 45 amp convertor and breaker box from VTS.Melody Ranch has one and it makes the install much easier.I will tow over to his barn in Valley View to wire it when I finish the first layer in a couple of days.
That floor was full of bolts!!!!I also made some angle pieces to attach to the ribs for further strength as you did on the 64. Let me know when you are getting close to the Red River. Steve

vhariable · 02-18-2011, 06:43 PM

Steve I know I am a little late to this thread, but I am curious about your solution for mounting your tanks. Did I miss the details or could you provide some more information? I am looking at purchasing the same tanks and doing a very similar installation on my '67, while also adding a fresh water tank in front of the axles. How tall are the RV17 tanks?

bwaysteve · 02-19-2011, 07:11 AM

It's a Ronco RV H17 and hangs below the frame on one end 3".If you look at the pic in the catalogue it slopes from one end to the other. I am planning on fabricating a belly pan section to fit this.For freshwater between the rails you need an oblong tank.Uwe Salwender had one installed in a trailer at the Restoration Rally in ABQ last summer.You might go to area63.com and check his blog for pics.I have decided to install a larger tank behind the front couch.

Breadbug · 02-21-2011, 10:41 PM

Hey there. I'm a bit late with this question. I was reading back at the tanks installation and saw how you did the drains. Are you going exposed outside the belly with them?

I'm trying to finalize my floorplan so I can order tanks. I want to increase tank size and probably number too. 2 greys and an under floor black as well. Im pretty sure im gonna plum in a fill spout to the black tank to have as a flush too. I have a 75TW and am doing a shell off. Got it to the bones and I'm prepping for POR15. I've gotta get my plans done.

Any critiques welcome.

marzboy · 04-27-2011, 12:25 AM

Hey Steve I have the same tanks. I am setting up the tank brackets and was wondering how much space did you leave between the top of your tanks and the bottom of the floor? Also it looks like you insulated your tanks, did you also insulate the floor between the tank?

bwaysteve · 04-28-2011, 06:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Breadbug

Hey there. I'm a bit late with this question. I was reading back at the tanks installation and saw how you did the drains. Are you going exposed outside the belly with them?

I'm trying to finalize my floorplan so I can order tanks. I want to increase tank size and probably number too. 2 greys and an under floor black as well. Im pretty sure im gonna plum in a fill spout to the black tank to have as a flush too. I have a 75TW and am doing a shell off. Got it to the bones and I'm prepping for POR15. I've gotta get my plans done.

Any critiques welcome.

Did drains outside of belly and having a hat fabricated that will cover the remainder of the tank.

bwaysteve · 04-28-2011, 06:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marzboy

Hey Steve I have the same tanks. I am setting up the tank brackets and was wondering how much space did you leave between the top of your tanks and the bottom of the floor? Also it looks like you insulated your tanks, did you also insulate the floor between the tank?

I left about an inch.I did not insulate between as the insulation took up most of the space.Propabaly would though.

Lance M · 04-28-2011, 06:20 AM

Steve,
Not sure if you've read my thread or not. Just wanted to say thanks for the tanks. I also used the Ronco 17H tanks on my Ambassador. I installed two gray and a new black tank.
That insulation installation looks awesome for sure. Nice work.

bwaysteve · 04-28-2011, 04:51 PM

Great! I think once I get some aluminum hats to cover the tanks it should be great.I have decided to make my Ambie a rolling kitchen and do events with some of my blue ribbon specialties.There are 1600 food trailers in Austin and the Airstreams always get special attention.Stay tuned.