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Old 11-23-2006, 07:43 PM   #21
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THe hollow doors would be fine if you had a box top that exact size.

The problem in my trailer is that one rear corner has a large radius, when you cut the door in that deep radius you will have nothing there to support the two luan outside layers.

You would need to make spacer blocks all around that radius edge, to get the wood inside you need to remove the material that's there in order to slip the blocks in. To bevel it into the radius would take a long time.

That' s a lot of work, the doors are going to cost say $30 ea or $60.

OR

Two & 1/2 pieces of luan are $25 the insulation $15 total about $40.

So the cost is the same.

But I think I can do that in an hour, hour & half.

I went to HD yesterday and tried out some different insulation on the floor spaced 16" on center, I finalized on the 3/4". it was stiff enough.

I was going to put it together this morning while the turkey was cooking but it was raining like Noak's ark.
I give it a shot tomorrow.
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Old 11-23-2006, 09:07 PM   #22
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twins to full

I converted twins in a 25' Excella to a full. My technique was simpler. First I removed the bedside table. I then cut OSB board to fit across the twins in a side to side direction. Board was flush with the back of the bedroom (had to hinge the board to get it in the bedroom. Board was cut to curve that correponded with the curvature of the trailer.
I then used a piece of 3/8" plywood which I cut into two pieces, finished and screwed it to the area of the twins not covered by the bed. After being finished with trim it almost looked factory! These areas were used for a bedside table at the head of the bed where we placed a lamp and we also had the same area at the side of the bed near the foot.

I later sold this trailer and was able to replace the original configuration of twins in a very short time.
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Old 11-26-2006, 06:08 PM   #23
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final frame install

The first pic is looking aft, I cut a door hatch in the back to have access into the underbed storage.

I divided the space into three compartments, you can see the second outside access on the right in pic #2

The third will be on the left front area which will have a top hatch for access
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Old 11-26-2006, 06:14 PM   #24
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The 1x1 square alum thin wall is 16" on center the birch divider is not supporting the frame, the corner was a first time fooling around with alum for me, kinda like wood with the slots.

The divider seen top to bottom is 1/4" birch, the white piece is a part of one of the old vinyl wall, I like to mix old and new.

The plywood is 3/8", 1x1 L is used on top and bottom secured to floor.
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Old 11-26-2006, 06:23 PM   #25
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I got a little carried away on the corner of the bed frame I mitered out the cherry for the plywood and you can see space for 1/4" cherry to form a rounded corner with the cherry on the whole outside face,
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Old 11-26-2006, 06:23 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lipets
The 1x1 alum thin wall is 16" on center the birch divider is not supporting the frame, the corner was a first time fooling around with alum for me, kinda like wood with the slots.
Your framework is looking great! I would think that with 16" on center that you might be able to span the distance OK with just a single layer of 1/4" to 3/8" luan plywood.

Of course your foam sandwich would be stiffer. Do you have a source for 1/8" plywood locally? I would bet that it would be enough of a skin for your sandwich and would be 1/2 the weight of two 1/4" skins. Have you decided what kind of glue to use? I was thinking that contact cement of the type that is used for attaching formica counter top laminate might work well but you would for sure have to have everything aligned when you dropped the skin in place.

Malcolm
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Old 11-26-2006, 06:25 PM   #27
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more

Cherry ( still unfinished) replacing the old luan vinyl walls

On the lower right is an outdoor shower
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Old 11-26-2006, 06:31 PM   #28
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Malcolm, thanks, the 1x1 sq tube is really strong and light, while working on it I fell in the center of one of those and it didn't flex much at all, I have the 3/4 styro already, I was going to get 1/4" luan, but your right it can work with less.

HD here has 5.2 mm or 1/4" luan, I think 5.2 is 0.2047 so just a tad thinner. It is only $9.75 a sheet, I need 3.

I don't know where to get thinner yet.
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Old 11-30-2006, 09:48 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lipets
Malcolm, thanks, the 1x1 sq tube is really strong and light, while working on it I fell in the center of one of those and it didn't flex much at all, I have the 3/4 styro already, I was going to get 1/4" luan, but your right it can work with less.

HD here has 5.2 mm or 1/4" luan, I think 5.2 is 0.2047 so just a tad thinner. It is only $9.75 a sheet, I need 3.

I don't know where to get thinner yet.
You might very well be able to get the 1/8" stuff at a lumber yard or perhaps a plywood specialty shop. I can get it out here at a store called Mr Plywood. They also sell single layers of veneer by the way. I know there are mail order places you can get it but the shipping would seem to be awkward at best for something so large. In your case you might want to consider leaving the foam out and just glueing the two layers of 1/4" together. Those support members are pretty close together.

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Old 11-30-2006, 10:30 PM   #30
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I finished it this afternoon, when I put the 5.2mm" luan down I riveted and it was almost strong enough on its own.

But when I put a lot of weight on it there was some flex, I continued with the 3/4" styro glued in with liquid nails, with the outside edges framed with 3/4 X 3/4 popular, then the top layer of 5.2mm luan was glued.

It is really nice, strong and lite in weight.

The 5.2mm is a little less than 1/4"

I'll get some pic's up ASAP

All the weather surfaces were covered in 1/4" foil bubble insulation.

I'm satisfied the way it came out.
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