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Old 09-17-2007, 09:58 PM   #1
2 Rivet Member
1976 31' Sovereign
1963 16' Bambi
1971 21' Globetrotter
Marbletown , New York
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 63
Finishing in the Bathroom

I have just started rebuilding a 31í, í76 International, rear bath. Iíve decided to start with the rear bath and have removed the bulkheads as well as the tub, and shower. I have some questions primarily about materials.

What is the tub, sink/counter and most of the shower made of? Is it the same material that the ceiling (both ends of the interior) is made of? People seem to refer to it as fiberglass. It doesnít seem like fiberglass to me. I guess what I really want to know is what to use for stopping cracks and then filling the cracks and chips (there are ĹĒ > ĺĒ on the edges of the tub. The ceiling edge has one or two with 2 to 3Ē cracks that are about 2Ē).

What can I use to refinish the sink, tub, counters, shower, and ceiling with? I have read about a material from DIY. It doesnít come in many colors. It would be nice to find a supplier who would match the original.

What should I prime with?

How are the finishes applied? Brushed, rolled, or sprayed?

Iím decent at spraying conventional enamels and lacquers; I just donít have any electricity at the A/S. If itís the only way I could probably borrow a generator, small compressor, gun.

Finally, at least for now, what should I use to calk when re-assembling?

Thank for getting through this,

Stone Ridge
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Old 07-25-2008, 06:16 AM   #2
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1975 31' Sovereign
Houston , Texas
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 494

ya know StoneRidge it is odd that your above thread did not get any response. I know for fact that most of those subjects and questions have been addressed on these forums before. If I can find some of the links I will post them here for others. I know from further reading your reports that you have long since passed the point of needing this thread answered.

I recall that Overlander 64 had a thread long ago about the refinish of his bathroom/s. He is one of the forums best reporters. However I recall he had his work out-sourced. (He hired it done.)
There have been at least several other detailed reports of DIY bath refinishing.
The ceiling sections are "officialy" known as "domes" and I believe are made of fiberglass. The bath panels and fixtures are made of ABS plastic. Apparently there are dozens of forms (formulas) of ABS plastic. I know there are threads here about "plastic welding" which deal with attempts at fixing the damned stuff.
As for caulking there is a long thread on that subject, but it focuses mainly and perhaps exclusively on exterior caulks & sealers IIRC (if I recall correctly). Interior wise I would think that the dreaded Silicone could be used on non metal applications, but wouldn't the deluxe (improved) tub-&-tile caulk make the most sense? Not sure how many colors it comes in, nor whether it could be colored (then how would you get it back in the tube? )
Again I know you have long since moved on with the AS-rehab but I post here mainly to keep this important thread from being a dead stub.
____ d'drummer ____

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Old 07-25-2008, 06:38 AM   #3
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1973 27' Overlander
Loganville , Georgia
Join Date: Nov 2007
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I just refinished mine recently. The tub and sink area are made of plastic, and I cracked some plastic removing it. I fixed the crack and hunk that came off with fiberglass. I bought a little fiberglass repair kit at Lowes. I did the back hidden side with fiberglass and the visual side with Bondo. You can't even tell. I am not an expert with this stuff and it was my first time. Just follow directions. With fiberglass make sure when you lay it out that you have no creases on the mesh material and with Bondo don't glob to much on because you have to sand it to form with the piece you are working on.

We painted our sink area tub with Tub & Tile Epoxy paint made by Homax (lowes). My wife used the brush on coat first after I sanded it. I washed it with a good detergen and used a very fine sand paper (very important). I was the prep man and my wife was the painter. Some areas you could still see through the fresh coat of paint so we decided to sand and give a second coat. This time we sprayed it. It came out beautiful.

Make sure you do not throw away your tub stand. If you make a new tub stand use the old pieces for templates. That stand is made to pitch down for drainage. I will post some pic of our bathroom painting and finished.

SIU Bound

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Old 07-25-2008, 06:47 AM   #4
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1975 31' Sovereign
Houston , Texas
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 494

Here are two threads that relate. There are others.

Bathtub Woes ~ Wolf ~ 12-29-03
Painting Bathroom Fixtures ~ balrgn ~ 12-19-04
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Old 07-25-2008, 07:06 AM   #5
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1975 31' Sovereign
Houston , Texas
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Posts: 494

Brian (SIU Bound) ,
Beautiful work.

Please be more specific as to which piece of ABS broke on removal. Could it have been avoided if you had known something? If so tell me the "secret".
I have that chore in front of me someday.
Also how much trouble was it replacing the fixtures? Was replacement more difficult than removal?

Did everything fit out of the bathroom door and the galley door and the exit door easily?

Actually any tips on removal and replacement would be invaluable to we '70s era owners.
Did you have to remove the toilet to get the ABS fixtures out?
How did you handle the "p-trap" under the tub?
Did you insulate under the tub upon replacement?
Are the tub wall panels caulked to the tub? Did they R&R easily? I don't think they are ABS? Did you remove them?
Isn't there a "soap recess" that is ABS above the tub?
Did you block the trailer before removal? Did everything go back exact?
You get the drift of my line of questions..any tips would help me and many more of us. The rear baths all need a facelift IMHO.

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Old 07-25-2008, 07:24 AM   #6
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1973 27' Overlander
Loganville , Georgia
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Distant Drummer:

I am posting my whole restoration project.

I broke the plastic by trying to remove it from a screw that was coming out of the wall that was installed from in the french door side. I was not going to remove the interior wall. I don't understand why they did not rivet it in from the bathroom side. I should have taken my reciprocating saw and just sawed the threads off. I was not thinking and it was the only screw left. I thought I could tug on the ABS piece and the screw would slide through. (wrong!). I snapped a big chunk out that exteded to the visual side of the piece. You will need to remove the toilet which is not a big deal. Just put a rag in the hole where the black tank is. You can see I took the whole bathroom apart and removed the floor and black tank. When I but the black tank back in I insulated with pink board on the underside of the floor and in and out of the black tank. All my insualation is under the belly pan. This project took me from late october until a couple of weeks ago. I did it all outside. We have had very mild weather and a drought so I moved pretty quickly. I think when you start poking around you will find out if your bathroom floor is rotten or not. Mine was rotten and had to be replaced.

SIU Bound

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Old 07-25-2008, 10:34 AM   #7
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Oxford , Connecticut
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Distantdrummer, thanks for breathing some life into this thread. I also have this project on my "to do" list and appreciate the much needed advice coming from SIU Bound.

SIU Bound, nice job! I'm real happy to hear that you got all your materials at Lowes. That just makes the project seem more reasonable to me. I wouldn't want the refinishing to be so complex that I'd have to send the pieces out. I like the white too...nice and clean.
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