Creating new interior wood endcaps

[rugjenkins]

I started making new interior endcaps out of 1/8 ply. I thought I'd share my experience and what to do and not to do. I've made 3 sections the last few days, with last one looking the best and taking only 2 hrs to do one side. Pic is below.
1/8 ply buck riveted together. I love the look of the natural wood and aluminum rivets together.
1st attempt: did not go well. Winging it did not work[emoji12]
2nd attempt: 13 panel endcap with 2 inch rivet spacing. All the panels were straight cuts of various widths all 4 ft long. I was trying to minimize the compound curvature of the panels. This side took forever. Also the direction of the grain of the wood makes a difference too. I was having a hard time getting this panel to bend and actually cracked the wood. Anyway I finished this end and put it up and the my wife didn't like the panel widths at the top different or the 2 inch rivet spacing.
3rd attempt: 9 panel with 3 inch rivet spacing. All panels are straight cuts 12 x 48. All have an inch overlap and I started at the bottom. I treat the wood panels like aluminum- cleos and all.
Lessons learned:
1. 9 panel is the easiest
2. You have to use washers with the rivets.
3. Use the longest buck rivet- 1/2 long 1/8 brazier head. You cut the rivet to the proper length. Side cutters work great
4. The compound curve causes the bottom panel to bow out. The front is flush with the bottom panel. It does not matter what the back looks like, just the front.
5. Use scrapes as temporary filler for the bows on the back when you buck rivet it together. It helps you achieve a proper buck. If not the bend and mess the wood up.
6. Cleo all the holes on that panel before you take it down to rivet it together. If not you will lose the curve.
7. Use a soft touch when buck riveting. The key is to get the rivet flush on the front, no more. This wood is soft so to much hammering and it goes right through.
8. You may not be able to get washers on a few of the center curves. This is no big deal. I plan on glueing them in. With all the other rivets in place it holds the shape well. So much so, it never loses it shape to take it up and down to rivet it all together.
This is not a hard project. Nor is it budget heavy. I can make the whole endcap for $25.

[rhutson]

Rugjenkins, Interesting project. I have not seen others try such nor would I think to do but i am interested in what you are doing. I appreciate all your tips and issues. Looking forward to seeing the end result. Rick

[rugjenkins]

Finished the endcap. I really like how it came out. The whole thing is buck riveted together except where I will attach it to the ribs and window frame. It very solid. Not as strong as aluminum but just as strong as the abs one it replaced. Major milestone done![emoji106][emoji895][emoji354]

[rugjenkins]

Forgot the pic.
Both sides done
Placing center panel. It's 23 1/4 x 48
Buck riveting the center and the sides together
Endcap installed with the bottom trimmed to fit.

[rhutson]

Nice job. Looks great. Rick

[55AS]

My panels are held in place by trim pieces screwed to the ribs with stainless steel self tapping screws.

[rugjenkins]

Your end caps were the inspiration to do mine. Yours looks awesome. I'm finally at the stage I've desired to be at since I towed it home. [emoji106]

[rugjenkins]

Originally Posted by BambiTex

My panels are held in place by trim pieces screwed to the ribs with stainless steel self tapping screws.

I did consider your method but was concerned about the possibility of the screws nicking electrical wires. I spray foamed my argosy and the wires are not nestled to the exterior skins. The spray foam push them closer to the interior skins. If I would insulate again, I'd spray foam first then run channels for the wires using an electric chainsaw. Being very careful of course. I did my house this way.
Did you do the whole interior in wood?

[55AS]

My wife loved the front so much she convinced me to do the whole trailer.

[rugjenkins]

That looks amazing!

[RosieRides]

Originally Posted by BambiTex

My panels are held in place by trim pieces screwed to the ribs with stainless steel self tapping screws.

BambiTex, is that a rollup shade at the top of your window?

[Pygmypoacher]

Originally Posted by BambiTex

My wife loved the front so much she convinced me to do the whole trailer.

Did either of you treat the back of the wood for water resistance? Due to eventual leaks I would think the wood would begin to swell, absorb the moisture if not treated. Love the look! curious about mitigating the "they all leak" issue.

Thanks.

[Royce]

It may be easier to treat it like glued lapstrake. Build a form for where the joints are located, taper the back panel of the joint and glue with epoxy. for instructions on glued lapstrake, there is none better than Tom Hills book on "Ultralight Boat Building"

https://www.amazon.com/Ultralight-Bo.../dp/0071567038

[rugjenkins]

Good call on the treating the back of the endcap. But I did not treat the back. The argosy has a solid fiberglass endcap. No real leak potential there. The running lights are coated inside and out with a good coat of sikaflex. Then the interior endcaps are spray foamed which further seals any possible leak points. Plus it only cost me $25 to make. If I have any issues I do have spare aluminum to make a new one.

[55AS]

Originally Posted by RosieRides

BambiTex, is that a rollup shade at the top of your window?

OceanAire

[55AS]

Originally Posted by rugjenkins

That looks amazing!

It was a lot of work but I think the finished product made it a worthwhile effort.

[HiHoAgRV]

Beautiful work!

[SuzyHomemakr]

Wow! Looks great! How's your back?

I was able to cheat, and do less panels, as they die into the cabinet. Trying to make that work is an odd combination of finesse and brutish strength. I used the old fiberglass endcap as a form, as I'd still be working on it if I hadn't.

The whole thing was probably one of the toughest jobs in the whole remo job, and those that are familiar with my work know that I'm no stranger to tormenting plywood into the bizarrest curves imaginable!

Just to forewarn anyone that may be thinking about about how cool wood ends look in an Airstream (they do!), and wants to give it a go. Definitely not for those with a time constraint, or lack of patience!

[Aerowood]

If you want the washers to push up tight on the back side, put a piece of rubber (approx. 1/8" thick) with a small hole in it on the rivet shank to hold the washer on, the bucktail will swell into the rubber, pushing the washer tight to the surface.

[rugjenkins]

That is a great tip! Honored to have the Rivet Master offer great advise[emoji1]