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Old 03-06-2018, 06:01 PM   #21
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Suzyhomemakr,
Thanks looks great. Do you have storage in the upper shelf. I like those lights too.
My finished endcap was lighter than the abs endcap. I was pleasantly surprised it held the proper shape going up and down. This was a fairly easy project. The 2nd attempt on the other side using a better method went very well. I could build one for the rear in a day. The hardest part was having a soft touch buck riveting or you go right through the soft wood.
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Old 03-07-2018, 07:32 AM   #22
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One other quick tip for riveting wood. Try putting a small drop of thin super glue in the hole before riveting. It will in effect harden the sides of the hole and keep the edge splintering to a minimum. You will also have to run the drill bit through the hole afterwards to clean out the hole.

If you plan on staining the wood then do not do this as the stain will not adhere to any super glue that may wick out beyond the sides of the hole. If you are just going to clear coat then it does not matter.

I have also had good results tapping threads into wood to accept threaded inserts. Drill, wick in superglue, tap, wick superglue, re-tap, thread in insert, wick superglue around exterior threads of insert.
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Old 03-07-2018, 08:07 AM   #23
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Aerowood,
Thanks for the tips. I would not have thought to use superglue. I have a headboard that needs a threaded tap.
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Old 03-07-2018, 08:55 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by rugjenkins View Post
Suzyhomemakr,
Thanks looks great. Do you have storage in the upper shelf. I like those lights too.
My finished endcap was lighter than the abs endcap. I was pleasantly surprised it held the proper shape going up and down. This was a fairly easy project. The 2nd attempt on the other side using a better method went very well. I could build one for the rear in a day. The hardest part was having a soft touch buck riveting or you go right through the soft wood.
There's a huge amount of storage up there, for light-weight objects only. The fans are nice, and there are some down lights over the pillow area that aren't seen in the shot.

How did you figure the outlines of the panels? I kinda winged it on mine, but figured that a much cleverer person than myself would know how to make those gently curved edges perfect.
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Old 03-07-2018, 09:40 AM   #25
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Actually, all the panels are straight cuts. On the front, which is not along as the rear, all panels are 12 x 48 inches with a 1 inch overlap. The center panel was 23 1/4 x 48. Didn't have to figure out the curves. I set the top at 11 and let the panel curve naturally until it was flush to the panel below. I used 1/2 long buck rivets cut to size with washers. The major bows on the back required the full 1/2. To prevent bending of the rivet, I put temporary filler pieces of wood so the rivet wood "fasten" properly.
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Old 03-07-2018, 09:43 AM   #26
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I suppose I could make accurate curved panels now that it together but it's more work that is not needed. I only care that part I see is perfectly flush
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Old 03-08-2018, 09:04 AM   #27
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Actually, all the panels are straight cuts. On the front, which is not along as the rear, all panels are 12 x 48 inches with a 1 inch overlap. The center panel was 23 1/4 x 48. Didn't have to figure out the curves. I set the top at 11 and let the panel curve naturally until it was flush to the panel below. I used 1/2 long buck rivets cut to size with washers. The major bows on the back required the full 1/2. To prevent bending of the rivet, I put temporary filler pieces of wood so the rivet wood "fasten" properly.
Ah, I see! Sort of a lapstrake affair. In retrospect, I see that it was probably lots easier than trying to butt them together the way that I did. Going with more pieces than I did would have made for a better install, as well.

Next time, I'll know better, and make entirely new errors!
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