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Old 12-24-2018, 09:12 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Rounder44 View Post
Right!

But I'm ensconced at a gem and mineral show in Quartzsite and not an easy in and out not to mention is kind of my job to be here the next 6 weeks....

I doubt AS does "house" calls...


W
I remember reading about another member here having a Mobile Rv tech replace his circuit board for the hot water heater at a campground. I believe it was covered under warranty, he may have used the free service you get when you buy the airstream, is it coach net ? Worth a shot.

If it was me I’d call airstream and get advice then maybe try the mobile thing.

http://www.mobilervrepairquartzsite.com
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Old 12-24-2018, 09:58 PM   #22
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I worked as a maintenance man for years while going through school. We always believed in starting with the simplest solution first. The simplest solution is that it is your LP gas may not be getting to the furnace since that when the problem started. I know that sometimes the refrigerator doesn’t work well when we go from electric to LP. Takes a few times to get it started from time to time. And our other LP items worked. I remember having a problem and thinking we had to get a service tech out. Just couldn’t get the LP to work. But it righted itself after awhile. Apparently it was just air in the line that needed to get worked through.

Anyway I’d call the AS service line. Hope it’s simple for you. And I think it will be based upon when the problem started.

On our last camping trip we couldn’t get one of the HPs to work. Couldn’t figure out why. Reset thermostat etc. Well I was outside and while the camper next to me were talking he noticed that an EMS reading on my surge protector said no voltage on one circuit. I was thinking something was wrong with the HP. So I reset the circuit breaker, and the EMS reading was normal. Everything worked fine then. It was the simple thing. I just never thought of starting there since I had power to the rest of the stuff. But I didn’t realize that the 50 AMP plug worked that way. I learned something that day.
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Old 12-25-2018, 09:00 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanusport View Post
I remember reading about another member here having a Mobile Rv tech replace his circuit board for the hot water heater at a campground. I believe it was covered under warranty, he may have used the free service you get when you buy the airstream, is it coach net ? Worth a shot.

If it was me Iíd call airstream and get advice then maybe try the mobile thing.

http://www.mobilervrepairquartzsite.com
I'll try tomorrow...

Holiday was a long week end and AS closed. Hopefully opened tomorrow to direct me...

Now it appears we have some 20į's weather on the way... Will my 1500W space heater keep the water lines from freezing? Any other freeze precautions?

Thanks!

Merry Christmas!

Warren
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Old 12-25-2018, 09:22 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Rounder44 View Post
I'll try tomorrow...

Holiday was a long week end and AS closed. Hopefully opened tomorrow to direct me...

Now it appears we have some 20į's weather on the way... Will my 1500W space heater keep the water lines from freezing? Any other freeze precautions?

Thanks!

Merry Christmas!

Warren
If you are hooked up to on site utilities you can keep a trickle of cold water running at the faucets. Running water doesn’t freeze very easily. You would probably have to keep track of your grey water tank closely and empty it more often. Then just run the hot water a bit every so often. Just a thought. Not sure how that would work. Maybe someone else can chime in.

One thing I thought of is your outside hose. You may want to get a hose that is heated to keep it from freezing. That’s probably the first place things will freeze. I know last Spring when we were camping and it got cold our hose froze up because I forgot about unhooking it. From then on before bed we always unhooked it. But they do make hoses that have electric coils through them. Not cheap though.
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Old 12-25-2018, 10:46 AM   #25
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I had the same/similar problem. Turned out to to a bad sail switch. When the furnace starts, it first runs the blower, and the sail switch engages (closes) if there is sufficient flow in the burner tube. If not, the fan will shut off and blink the LED once every three seconds. The temperature limit switch and sail switch are in series, so there is only one code.

The sail switch removes easily with two screws (its a large white micro-switch on the blower cage) and you can test it outside the furnace. The aluminum "sail" attached to the switch can be bent and re-positioned so it can capture more flow, or the switch can be replaced.

Also check for obstructions in the burner tube. Spiders, grass, etc can be sucked up in there and limit flow. Remove the heat exhaust tube and blow it out with compressed air, see what blows out. Maybe Elvis. The water heater has a similar failure mode.

Check that the electrical terminals are tight on everything you can find. Quality is not job one at AS, and loose terminals can cause untold problems.

pg
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Old 12-25-2018, 10:58 AM   #26
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Hopefully you will find the problem. Your wiring there looks like Airstream gave you a Christmas decoration.


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Old 12-25-2018, 01:32 PM   #27
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Refilled propane; furnace won't fire up

One time, heading north in early Feb, our furnace quit working in -30F temperatures in Harrisburg, PA, even though I had refilled my tanks. But, I had refilled them in Florida, without any anti-freeze (methanol) in the propane, so I found out later. Apparently, the regulator basically froze up. It let a wee bit of propane through, but not enough volume to keep the furnace running. Initially, the furnace had fired up fine, but then quit after awhile. Come spring, it worked just fine up north.
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Old 12-25-2018, 02:59 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pgeller View Post
I had the same/similar problem. Turned out to to a bad sail switch. When the furnace starts, it first runs the blower, and the sail switch engages (closes) if there is sufficient flow in the burner tube. If not, the fan will shut off and blink the LED once every three seconds. The temperature limit switch and sail switch are in series, so there is only one code.

The sail switch removes easily with two screws (its a large white micro-switch on the blower cage) and you can test it outside the furnace. The aluminum "sail" attached to the switch can be bent and re-positioned so it can capture more flow, or the switch can be replaced.

Also check for obstructions in the burner tube. Spiders, grass, etc can be sucked up in there and limit flow. Remove the heat exhaust tube and blow it out with compressed air, see what blows out. Maybe Elvis. The water heater has a similar failure mode.

Check that the electrical terminals are tight on everything you can find. Quality is not job one at AS, and loose terminals can cause untold problems.

pg
Thanks,

I'm guessing this may be it but I'll be darned if I can find easy access to any switches!

Do I get at them from the inside?

Everything seems to demand a high degree of dismantling to get at the switches. I don't even see them!

Thanks,

W
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Old 12-25-2018, 03:30 PM   #29
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A sail switch is mounted right in front of blowing air. Its purpose is to flip the switch just in case there is sufficient air flow; and, conversely, not to flip the switch just in case of low or no air flow.

A fly in the ointment of many sail switches is that they can fail if they become too dusty; "repair" thus amounts in some cases to blowing them out with compressed air. (In the case of some Suburban furances on older Airstreams, I also note that the manufacturer slightly increased the size of the sail itself.)

Here's a shot of one flavor of the sail switch. You can see the arm that operates via air flow to flip the switch.





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Old 12-25-2018, 05:22 PM   #30
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Tough to say. I have a 2015 19' International and all of the furnace bits are accessible from the outside, once the four screws that secure the outer cover, and maybe two others, are removed. The sail switch is pretty obvious on mine.

The manual could be helpful, too.

http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/hflamefurn04.pdf

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Old 12-26-2018, 08:51 AM   #31
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Well...

Airstream is taking a LONG week end... No support available....

Anyone know if they're gonna show up this week or are they off through the 1st?

I hope they're nice and warm......


sigh...

W
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Old 12-26-2018, 09:02 AM   #32
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Rounder44,

Maybe if you post pic of outside of furnace someone can tell you how to open it up and as mentioned look for code light.

Also do you have the furnace mfgr manual and checked itís troubleshooting guide ?

Wish I was off this week too.

Gary
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Old 12-26-2018, 09:15 AM   #33
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Rounder44,

Maybe if you post pic of outside of furnace someone can tell you how to open it up and as mentioned look for code light.

Also do you have the furnace mfgr manual and checked itís troubleshooting guide ?

Wish I was off this week too.

Gary

Thanks!

I got it opened and found the code indicating sail switch etc...

I just don't know how to get at it without yanking the entire furnace out and possibly voiding warranty. It's a 2019 Sport 22FB. 1 week on the road...

The manual is full of warnings and legalize and seriously lacking on details. I'm glad Atwood was able to save a few cents and print a boiler plate manual for all their furnace but useless in a problem situaltion....

Thanks!

W
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Old 12-26-2018, 09:42 AM   #34
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Can you post Atwood model number for furnace?

Also couldnít hurt to post pic of furnace with doors open so folks can peak at it and itís wiring.

Canít reread all of your posts now but if you tried to turn it on what does it do? Nothing, tries to start but doesnít fire up etc.
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Old 12-26-2018, 10:25 AM   #35
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Can you post Atwood model number for furnace?

Also couldnít hurt to post pic of furnace with doors open so folks can peak at it and itís wiring.

Canít reread all of your posts now but if you tried to turn it on what does it do? Nothing, tries to start but doesnít fire up etc.

Not sure of model number but attached the photo again.

Fan goes on, won't fire up, turns off after ~15 seconds. Led light blinks once every 3 seconds.

I attempted to follow the start up instructions but fan shuts off too quick which indicates sail switch or such.

All attempts have left me with "turn off and call dealer" algorithms....

Seems like it could be a simple fix if not camped out and parts available....


W
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Old 12-26-2018, 10:44 AM   #36
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Ok long shot time.

Power OFF.

Check any possible connections by slight wiggle and push on to seat any wire crimped to spade or other connections. Any that have a screw connection just wiggle and slight tug.

This is a simple POWER OFF connection inspection. And that black can left center with reddish connection might be a capacitor. Caution might be holding a charge.

Gary
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Old 12-28-2018, 08:10 AM   #37
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Fixed!!!!

Connection issue! I pulled off the connections again and really worked them and it has fired up constantly!

GREAT RV tech in Quartzsite coached me through the issues. He informed me than in 36 years of RV repair fully HALF of the furnaces he goes to repair fix them selves when by the time he gets them pulled and to his bench!

HALF don't need any more than connections cleaned up!

Very weird if you ask me.....

I'm starting to see the wisdom of a spare board and read a little about the Dinosaur boards that seem to be an upgrade...

The tech also strongly suggested a Blue Flame brand replacement furnace or part of explaining it has a built in thermostat..... Phone connection was poor and we kept getting distracted so not sure exactly about the Blue Flame...

Any other thoughts to put the furnace issues to bed once and for all?

Thanks,

W
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Old 12-30-2018, 09:26 AM   #38
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There is a new thread carrying on this conversation FYI:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f459...lp-190634.html

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Old 12-30-2018, 12:43 PM   #39
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If nothing else works, there is a reset switch on the furnace. The unit must be powered for the switch to work.
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Old 12-30-2018, 11:28 PM   #40
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It sounds like you are warm for now!
Since this all started when you reconnected your propane bottles, here is a not-unusual happening:
New propane tanks and Acme connectors now (for a decade or two) have a fast-flow close valve. In other words, to prevent a fire should you sever a hose or other downstream connection, the valve senses this and shuts down - sometimes with a minimal flow. This fast flow often comes when you open the tank and fill the unpressurized lines with gas.
The solution to this is to shut off the propane tank completely, then open slowly while the lines fill.
It's always #1 in troubleshooting propane, especially if you have disconnected the tanks.
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