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Old 01-13-2015, 07:51 PM   #1
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Plugging in to a house

So I am living in my airstream...I'm currently living in an RV park but I have an opportunity to park on a friend's property. She's willing to let me hook into her house. So sewer and water are easy...but what about electric?? Any thoughts or experiences with this? Constantly tripping breakers?

Thanks!
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Old 01-13-2015, 08:07 PM   #2
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You need 30 amp if you plan on using an elec heater or a/c; 20 amp will not support a/c ( it will support one 1500 watt heater).


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Old 01-13-2015, 08:10 PM   #3
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Welcome to the Forums. We're glad to have you with us.

As to your question, you would be best to install a dedicated 30 amp RV outlet at the house. You can try working off of 15 and 20 amp household outlets, but will most likely encounter electrical problems.

I would suggest having a licensed electrician do the 30 amp installation. It will probably cost in the vicinity of $500.

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Old 01-13-2015, 08:10 PM   #4
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Btw, if you have an electrician friend, you might be able to get them to add a 30 amp rv outlet pretty reasonable , it shouldn't cost too much regardless .


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Old 01-13-2015, 08:38 PM   #5
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Hi, we spent several weeks in a friend's driveway and it worked good for us. Sewer was quite a distance but I made it work. Water was no problem. And we had a 20 amp outlet that only tripped when using our air conditioner and the micro-wave at the same time. [re-set the breaker and all is well]
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Old 01-13-2015, 08:43 PM   #6
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For sure, a dedicated 30 Amp, or if you have a desire for lots of electricity usage simultaneously i.e., hair dryer, A/C, microwave, etc. a 50 Amp might be good if you have an AS with 50 Amp input (two A/C units.)

But, they all cost money...
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Old 01-13-2015, 08:45 PM   #7
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I keep my 31' 2002 ASCL parked in my back yard hooked up to a 20 amp receptacle. This is done by using an adapter which is a dual male into the 20 amp female receptacle with a 30 amp female on the opposite side (adapter can be sourced from most RV suppliers). This adapter allows for 2 times the contact area of the male/female contacts which reduces resistance and thus heat.

The wiring I use is a #2 gauge copper of which I happened to have 150 feet laying around. I used it all instead of shortening it, but because of its thickness (~ the diameter of your little finger) there is essentially no voltage drop to the 30 amp umbilical of the Airstream.

With this set up I have no trouble running the air conditioner and the converter. While running, my voltage never drops below 119 volts and the connections stay cool.

Bottom line is use a large surface area adapter connector at the receptacle and a very large cable and you will have all 20 amps and good voltage available. It's probably cheaper than the electrician.
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Old 01-13-2015, 08:46 PM   #8
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I hate reiterate on the power source....what looks like a 30 amp service in the house IS NOT> That is a 22v outlet probable used for an electric drier. DON'T try it. A 30 AMP RV outlet is a different animal.
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Old 01-13-2015, 08:48 PM   #9
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The parts are cheap, but the knowledge to do it right is what you pay for.

Note: if you hire an electrician be very clear its a 30 amp 115 volt single phase connection. Others on the forum have had major issues when an RV 30 amp outlet was hooked to 220 volt incorrectly. Beware of electricians unfamiliar with what you need.

Me, I know what I'm doing and did it myself...just be careful.


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Old 01-13-2015, 08:50 PM   #10
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Bought this outlet box at home improvement store:

Shop Eaton 30-Amp Overhead or Underground Temporary Power Panel at Lowes.com

Neighbor's friend's son is an electrician; paid him $75 to install it on a Saturday. He had conduit and wires, but I had to buy a 30 amp breaker, which I think was about $15.

IMPORTANT NOTES:

1. Make sure electrician knows that THE RV OUTLET IS 110 VOLTS, NOT 220 VOLTS.

2. BEFORE YOU PLUG YOUR AIRSTREAM'S SHORE POWER CORD INTO THE NEW OUTLET, make sure to have the electrician test the newly installed 110 volt 30 amp RV outlet with a voltmeter and a 110 volt outlet tester.

Can you guess? Yes, ours was wired wrong.

110 volt outlet tester: GE 3 Prong Receptacle Tester - Walmart.com
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Old 01-13-2015, 08:58 PM   #11
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For temporary, it depends on your friend's home's setup. The 'best' solution is a 'dedicated' line. It will provide the safest, most usable setup.

I installed my own 50 AMP outlet... it is handy because I can also use it to power my welding machine now... isn't that great!!!???? Ok, I thought it was kewl...

Anyway, in most areas it is now necessary to have a LICENSED ELECTRICIAN install the circuit... In some areas, you may also have to pay for a government official to "oversee" that it is installed properly... isn't that NICE...

That-a-way you will be able to have any issues with the circuit 'covered' by the homeowner insurance in case of an 'issue'.... better play the game....er, protect your friend.

Now, presuming your AS is a 30 AMP, the same holds true. Get it done properly.

If, however, all the above doesn't fit, all you 'need' is enough power to keep your Converter powered... and enough propane to keep you warm... don't expect to run a space heater with a 10 amp.. and perhaps even a 15 amp circuit... "can" you.. perhaps, depending upon many factors... but, why risk your friend's courtesy or damage to anyone's property.. even 'accidental', of course...

Good luck!
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Old 01-13-2015, 09:01 PM   #12
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Oh.. a separate note.. take action to ensure your cord is protected from rain, damage, etc..
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Old 01-14-2015, 05:47 AM   #13
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Thanks so much for all the responses!! I was hoping to not have to install a dedicated 30 amp breaker...and it sounds like it's at least worth a try to run it off the 20 amp system first.

Thanks once again for the help!
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Old 01-14-2015, 05:56 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS View Post
Hi, we spent several weeks in a friend's driveway and it worked good for us. Sewer was quite a distance but I made it work. Water was no problem. And we had a 20 amp outlet that only tripped when using our air conditioner and the micro-wave at the same time. [re-set the breaker and all is well]
^
X2

Been my experience also.

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Old 01-14-2015, 06:11 AM   #15
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I ran my 30 amp service myself....about $100 in pieces and parts and about 2 hours.
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Old 01-14-2015, 12:06 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gcasson View Post
So I am living in my airstream...I'm currently living in an RV park but I have an opportunity to park on a friend's property. She's willing to let me hook into her house. So sewer and water are easy...but what about electric?? Any thoughts or experiences with this? Constantly tripping breakers?

Thanks!
Hi, I think we all agree that an RV 30 amp outlet would be the best, but I wouldn't have it done to a friend's house unless it was a long term situation and/or the home owner wanted to do it anyway. Do it to my own house; That's a complete different story. A 20 amp service worked fine for me.
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Old 01-14-2015, 01:28 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by rmkrum View Post
The parts are cheap, but the knowledge to do it right is what you pay for.

Note: if you hire an electrician be very clear its a 30 amp 115 volt single phase connection. Others on the forum have had major issues when an RV 30 amp outlet was hooked to 220 volt incorrectly. Beware of electricians unfamiliar with what you need.

Me, I know what I'm doing and did it myself...just be careful.


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I can attest to this post. I had an RV plug wired by a licensed electrician in our garage. Specifically in the quote 30AMP 110V. He wired it 220V. I plugged in the AS after he left, it was not there when he did it and a loud pop, tons of smoke and $1,500 later a new converter and new blue ray player installed at the electricians expense plus my travel expenses to the AS dealer. AND the electrician said he knew exactly what he was doing as he had just finished a campground, however, he had done all the boxes not the panel as another electrician from the same company did the panel.

It's well worth it, even now that we have a 50AMP As, I just use and 30AMP adapter and plug her in. Can test each AC one at a time, etc.

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Old 01-14-2015, 03:17 PM   #18
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Smile Plugging into house

We added an RV outlet in our garage so that a long cord will reach from the RV in our driveway...no more blown fuses!
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Old 01-14-2015, 03:21 PM   #19
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You need 30 amp if you plan on using an elec heater or a/c; 20 amp will not support a/c ( it will support one 1500 watt heater).


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My ac will run on a 20 amp circuit. Make sure there is nothing else running in the trailer other than the converter and that there is nothing in the house running off that circuit.
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Old 01-14-2015, 03:56 PM   #20
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Plugging in to a house

My a/c will run on a twenty amp circuit all day long.

A/C and a hair dryer at the same time? That would be no.

With a little common sense, and a good supply cord, a twenty amp circuit will suffice.

Worst case, the breaker trips.


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