Omg I’m so green at this!

[sstanley1975]

I am a single woman living in my 34 foot airstream classic and just bought it in July this year. I am living in the mountains in southwest Virginia and we just had our first winter ice storm and I was without power for five days. I had not really prepared the airstream for winter and still haven’t as I was gone out of country til this past Monday and am behind on doing everything not only to prepare it for winter living but also to prepare for power outages here when the trees fall on power lines. I have so many questions. I am just learning the basics and then think I’m doing ok and then something else comes up. Living in it in the summer was a learning process and now the winter living is going to be a chore to learn as well. Are there classes to take somewhere or a helpful one over the world on YouTube of what I need to do to prepare for winter conditions? There’s so much I don’t know. Any suggestions for what to do for winter as well as where to look for knowledge on everything airstream living would be much appreciated. New to the forum. Looks like I’ve got my work cut out for me. Thanks. Feeling overwhelmed!!! To say the least. Also suggestions on how to survive power outages and still have heat and water would be much appreciated.

[Lily&Me]

You will find lots of helpful information in the Winter Living subforum here...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f462/

Perhaps make yourself some hot tea, and do some reading.

We were all new once, but sounds like you’re having a bit of baptism by fire.

You will survive, and spring will come again.

Good luck,

Maggie

[ROBERT CROSS]

First...if you don't already have, get a generator.

A proper sized unit could run the heating system thru any cold spell situations.
And a LP converted generator with a residential tank would provide enough run time.

Good Luck...get some onesies. 😂

Bob
🇺🇸

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by sstanley1975

I am a single woman living in my 34 foot airstream classic and just bought it in July this year. I am living in the mountains in southwest Virginia and we just had our first winter ice storm and I was without power for five days. I had not really prepared the airstream for winter and still haven’t as I was gone out of country til this past Monday and am behind on doing everything not only to prepare it for winter living but also to prepare for power outages here when the trees fall on power lines. I have so many questions. I am just learning the basics and then think I’m doing ok and then something else comes up. Living in it in the summer was a learning process and now the winter living is going to be a chore to learn as well. Are there classes to take somewhere or a helpful one over the world on YouTube of what I need to do to prepare for winter conditions? There’s so much I don’t know. Any suggestions for what to do for winter as well as where to look for knowledge on everything airstream living would be much appreciated. New to the forum. Looks like I’ve got my work cut out for me. Thanks. Feeling overwhelmed!!! To say the least. Also suggestions on how to survive power outages and still have heat and water would be much appreciated.

Your a braver person then I, to take this on with freezing on a regular basis during winter! Many folks will post stories and advise on how to live in your AS here on the Forum and elsewhere, but many others will confirm that the AS is not a 4 season trailer and there are lots of considerations, especially when freeze comes; let alone power outages. We leave ours plugged in while in the outskirts of Austin, but we leave the propane on with thermostat set to 40 so nothing freezes...we have froze pipes and valves when we didn't few years back. I use one tank at a time, so I know when it is out, but I do check the tanks every other day to make sure the tank selected is fairly full. Electric heaters can help to keep you warm, but the furnace in the AS blows hot air in the belly so your pipes get some heated air to help keep from freezing; the electric heat from portable heater, typically will not reach that area so be aware. Other issue with the AS is the condensation on the windows and inside walls, which will build up inside due to thin walls. Some folks line the windows with aluminum insulation, but I think a dehumidifier is a better overall solution if your running heat most of the time in really cold temps...remember, with moisture comes additional problems if not taken care of; you don't want moisture problems including rot or even black mold perhaps..not trying to scare you, just a fact it can/does happen. You want to keep it as dry as possible inside.

Biggest concerns are your (1) electrical inconsistency and (2)making sure you have propane available. I would consider a larger propane tank source to draw from over the winter if your not traveling in your AS...rent one perhaps from your local propane suppliers. Good luck and stay warm!

[GCinSC2]

Greetings and welcome and a special hello to a Slide Out owner. Post your questions and hang on.

Also here's a group of like minded Slide Out owners http://www.airforums.com/forums/f366...ry-159166.html
The Slide Out Society.

And an invitation to Alumaslider II next Oct details here http://www.airforums.com/forums/f288...-a-188183.html

Gary

[kb0zke]

Welcome to the forum. Reading and asking questions here, especially in the Full-timing and Winter living sections, is a good start.


Are you stuck in Virginia because of the weather or for other reasons? If you are stuck because of the weather, you can move soon. Many of us try to avoid freezing temperatures, but sometimes we're stuck with them for a bit. As long as your furnace has a duct to your water tanks (fresh, grey, and black) AND a return to the furnace you should be good. That return is important. It can be as simple as a screened opening to the main part of the trailer or a separate duct. The point is to provide air flow in the tank area.


If your Airstream is going to be a tiny house, permanently parked there, you will need to provide insulation around the perimeter. Some people use hay or straw bales for that, and the mice love them. The mice are protected from owls, hawks, and rain/snow so that they can safely work on finding a path to inside your trailer.


A better solution is to get some foam insulation boards, at least 2" thick, and cut pieces to fit tightly from the ground up to the sides of the trailer. You will also need a bunch of concrete blocks. Cut a length of foam and stand it up against the trailer. Put two blocks under the trailer, right up against the foam and two more on the outside. Continue around the trailer, fitting each piece of foam tightly up against the previous one. When you get to the corners you will find that the Airstream's curved design becomes a liability. You will have to somehow figure out how to get the foam up tight against the trailer. One way is to make square corners, then fit a piece between the two upright foam pieces and the trailer. Be sure to leave some sort of access for filling and dumping. When you have finished with the foam and blocks, tape some heavy construction plastic to the trailer and over the foam. You will probably have to tape the seams as well. The whole idea is to keep wind out from under the trailer.


You will want a generator that, at a minimum, can power your furnace and refrigerator. If you have turned your Airstream into a tiny house, though, you may as well get one large enough to power the whole thing. It won't cost much more to buy, but it will be heavier and use more fuel. DO NOT EVER run a generator in a closed space. At a minimum it will quit working due to a lack of oxygen. Worst case YOU will quit working due to a lack of oxygen.

[Daquenzer]

1. Get a dehumidifier, run bath fans when condensation on windows.
2. Get a generator (as mentioned above) for emergencies and make sure you have enough fuel for it to run at least a week.
3. Put skirting around if possible to minimize cold air underneath.
4. Get an LP tank gauge and buy an extra tank to keep filled for emergency purposes.
5. Get a heated water hose. That way you can have water and not unhook it when it falls below freezing.
6. Might want to get a small electric heater for inside.
7. Minimize cooking and showering during cold spells since it add condensation to the interior.

[Hittenstiehl]

The nice thing is you found the correct form to give you good advice and they are already answering you.

Most all the information you need is here you can sift through and find it or you can ask you questions intermittently and people will answer them. You might also reach out to some Airstream groups that are local to you and see if somebody lives nearby that may come by for meet and greet to explain some of these things in further detail.

Look up WBCCI and look for the group that is closest to your geographical location. Email that group and see if anybody lives near or around you that might be willing to correspond with you. Airstreamers are a very friendly bunch who are always eager to help.

[uncle_bob]

Hi

As you can see, the answers cover a wide range of possible situations. Some people are "tiny house" oriented in a fixed location. Others move around on a regular basis. That alone can change the "what do you do?" part of it a *lot*. The ideas that work with one may not be the best advice for the other. More information about what your plans are could help focus things a bit.

One thing that has not been mentioned is snow. We're a bit north of you, but we've already had close to a foot of snow. You certainly are in an area that could get a bit of ice and snow at some point. If you are parked under a bunch of trees, ice / snow loaded limbs falling hitting your roof are not a good thing ....

Given your location, once things are back in season, a visit to the local Airstream park (Highland Haven) would be one way to meet a lot of other people with similar trailers. They also have a number of rallies there. It's not a long drive from Floyd .... Last time I was there I learned how to rivet parts back onto my trailer in a thunderstorm .... after that it was back to Floyd to re-stock on beer

Bob

[NY24]

Welcome sstanley1975! If this is your first RV, you've certainly jumped into the DEEP end of the pool. As you're discovering, there IS a LOT to learn. One of the BEST ways to quickly learn about the RV lifestyle is to attend an RV Boot Camp. At RVBC, all the systems found on a modern RV will be explained and demystified. The Escapees RV Club run an EXCELLENT RVBC, usually over a weekend. Other groups also offer their own version of RVBC, some as long as eight days (more socializing). RVSEF, FMCA, RV~Dreams quickly come to mind. Mark & Dawn Polk of www.RVEducation101.com have a DVD series that contains a wealth of information. I was able to borrow some DVDs from my local library. I bought other DVDs I was interested in. RVBC graduates are safer RVers and, smarter RV buyers. Mistakes made with RV are often expensive and, sometimes dangerous. Chuck Woodbury's EXCELLENT www.RVTravel.com free website (donations appreciated) just started a new segment targeted at RV "newbies". Chuck is one of the few voices in the RV industry who publicizes the shameful conditions that FAR too many RVs are delivered in. Buyers of these poorly made RVs often get a run around getting bounced between the RV dealer and the RV builder as to WHO is responsible for repairs. You'll find this forum has many Airstream owners who are VERY knowledgable and, they are VERY generous in sharing that knowledge. A 30' Airstream is going to need a SUBSTANTIAL tow vehicle (a topic well covered in RVBC). If you have NOT yet checked the date code on all the tires, that would be a good place to start. Suspension, brakes, bearings (ie:"running gear") should be checked BEFORE you start on tour travels. When you think you ARE ready to travel, start SMALL. You can "camp" for an entire week/weekend in your driveway/yard. Next, try a campground that's only an hour or three away. Keep a DETAILED list of what you forgot to bring (or had trouble with). As you gain experience, that list will shrink as you gain experience. You CAN do this as a solo female and, you will find many other solo females in your travels. There are solo female RVing groups (RVing Women come to mind; there are others). If you need help in learning to tow your 30' "bullet" there ARE RV Driving Schools (a service frequently offered at larger RV rallies). An hour or two with a professional instructor can really boost your confidence and capabilities. Those larger rallies often have a "Smart Weigh" service available. Once you've had your rig Smart Weighed, you'll KNOW what tire pressure is needed for YOUR set up. Unless you make MAJOR changes, Smart Weigh is a one time expense (but an expense that WELL worth its' cost). Again, WELCOME!
Regards, John

[Rob Cope]

Yes, you see how helpful this site is. I commend them all.
This is my third winter living in a new 25 FC in a mild winter climate -- so far -- on an island in Washington in view of Canada. The temperature might get to about 25 degrees 3-4 times a winter. Thus, you know your circumstance is more difficult. My heat is the furnace, off or on 2-3 times a day, for a 5 minute top up as necessary, on top of two low heat electric heaters; one on 24/7 next to the toilet. For two weeks now I am delighted having a oil-radiator heater under the dining table on low. For the first time this winter adding skirts nearly all around. I am hooked into a daughter-owned, woodland home for utilities, letting the water hose freeze for a day or so using water in containers in the kitchen. A generator seems a great idea; my backup heat, if ever necessary, will come from outside charcoal stove or two positioned under, and a dozen candles inside. I enjoy cold so have several windows cracked for ventilation. It is an adventure. Welcome.

[Joyman]

We are living in our trailer this winter also. I skirted my bottom with foam board insulation sheet s we went from 23 one morning outside with the under side of trailer was 58 with my Wi-Fi thermometer read. 33 hours later the air temp out side was 60 and sunny. Big sweat down under trailer. So I cut 6 holes in my insulation sheets to breath the trailer and dry this out. And cut additional sheets to patch over the holes when it goes back cold again. Here in a few weeks. Moisture ='s mold. Keep air flowing when we can. Good luck on your winterize. I will hold patches up with cinder blocks.when we drop back under freezing

[sstanley1975]

Thank you so much all of you! Lots of great suggestions. I am going to get a generator at Lowe’s and an extra propane tank to keep full and a dehumidifier. For starters. I am going to skirt the bottom of the trailer once I figure out if I am staying here for the winter or going to be near my daughter in Kentucky and also going to look into the boot camps and the DVD’s as well as the groups of women who rv and read the forums. Since I am tiny house living and do not have another home, got to make this work. Again thank you so much! The onesies are a great idea! Haha! I think I have a lot of learning to do and also a great deal of reading! I don’t have my own tow vehicle just rent from enterprise whenever I have to move the trailer but for now, it’s staying warm and keeping the pipes from freezing.

[A W Warn]

Your choice of generator is important, for multiple reasons.

1000 watt will keep the batteries charged - 2000 watt will run a small appliance while charging batteries - 3500 watt & up will run the air conditioner, run a small appliance, and charge. (there are modifications to the AC that will allow using a smaller generator)

A pure sine wave inverter generator is best for the equipment in your trailer that has sensitive electronics, like circuit boards, etc. (refrigerator, furnace, air conditioner, television, etc).
A construction type generator might harm this type of equipment, because of its harsh wave form.

When you use a generator you want it to be quiet as possible, so neighbors do not complain and if needed you can sleep while it runs.

There are expensive and less expensive. (Honda, Yamaha $$$, … Champion, Predator, and other less $ with similar results)
And you can choose fuel type, gasoline or propane, or a combination dual fuel.

Depending on which generator you choose, you will need the appropriate adapter to plug into the generator that will connect to the trailer's power cord.

[A W Warn]

Originally Posted by Joyman

We are living in our trailer this winter also. I skirted my bottom with foam board insulation sheet s we went from 23 one morning outside with the under side of trailer was 58 with my Wi-Fi thermometer read. 33 hours later the air temp out side was 60 and sunny. Big sweat down under trailer. So I cut 6 holes in my insulation sheets to breath the trailer and dry this out. And cut additional sheets to patch over the holes when it goes back cold again. Here in a few weeks. Moisture ='s mold. Keep air flowing when we can. Good luck on your winterize. I will hold patches up with cinder blocks.when we drop back under freezing

Put some polyethylene sheet on the ground beneath the trailer. That will help a lot with moisture beneath the trailer.

[guskmg]

I have camped for months in the winter in my 35' SOD. It is a matter of planning ahead and using some pre-winter weather checklists. Almost everything is already mentioned above. One long 6 months winter stay in Omaha, NE, I contracted for a propane dealer to bring 2 100# bottles out, plumb them and keep them full all winter. It worked great. Also, get to know someone who has has experience with RV appliances and does mobile service. If your trailer has already experienced freezing temps there may not be that much damage. Some susceptible items, if that has already happened, could be the fresh water pump; the water strainer leading into it; the city water inlet; the outside faucet next to the city water inlet; faucet; shower fixtures; sink plumbing; spray handles; and the water heater. Obviously, those are the things you want to winterize before leaving an unheated trailer with freezing conditions on the way. If you didn't winterize, hook up some water or compressed air to the city water inlet, and go looking or listening. Then you will know what needs fixing. If this is sound like too much, you get a mobile RV tech to come help you.
Happy trailering.
guskmg

[uncle_bob]

Originally Posted by sstanley1975

Thank you so much all of you! Lots of great suggestions. I am going to get a generator at Lowe’s and an extra propane tank to keep full and a dehumidifier. For starters. I am going to skirt the bottom of the trailer once I figure out if I am staying here for the winter or going to be near my daughter in Kentucky and also going to look into the boot camps and the DVD’s as well as the groups of women who rv and read the forums. Since I am tiny house living and do not have another home, got to make this work. Again thank you so much! The onesies are a great idea! Haha! I think I have a lot of learning to do and also a great deal of reading! I don’t have my own tow vehicle just rent from enterprise whenever I have to move the trailer but for now, it’s staying warm and keeping the pipes from freezing.

Hi

What Lowes or Home Depot are most likely to sell you is a "construction generator". Their main attraction is the low price. If you are going to be anywhere near people (including yourself), you want something that is not as noisy and that (hopefully) is more reliable. Yes, you will spend a little more money ...

Living in an AS in an area that goes below freezing and then may stay there for weeks is tough. It also is not cheap. You will burn a *lot* of propane or use a *ton* of electricity to heat the trailer to a livable temperature. A bottle of propane every couple days is not at all uncommon.

Getting water into and out of a trailer when it really gets cold is a challenge. Both the input and outflow lines likely need insulation and heaters. That gets complicated to rig up and the electric bill goes up .... There are a number of ways to do this or that.

Yes, I know what this all sounds like. It's not my intention to freak you out. However you *do* need to dig into this stuff. Setting up for winter living is a chore and it needs to be done right. It takes time and planning. There are lots of resources to help once you get going.

Facing up to the budget is never ever fun, but that's part of living. Assuming you are parking for free, heading to someplace that is even $15 a day (but warm) may not make any sense. This part is very much between you and your bank account.

Lots of fun !!!

Bob

[sstanley1975]

Ok so I went and got a Briggs and Stratton 3500 watt gasoline powered generator from Lowe’s tho I have not picked it up yet and I did get a dehumidifier. One thing that puzzles me is that one of my propane tanks won’t empty and I’ve read that this might be a regulator issue? The one of the two propane tanks on the airstream works just fine but once it’s out, the other does not give propane out and I have it full. So..... suggestions? Does that generator sound ok? And last of all, two things actually. My lp detector keeps malfunctioning and needing me to hit test to reset it back and stop giving the alert that goes off and turns it orange. I’m assuming I’m going to have to get a new one. And the norcold fridge works on auto (elec and gas) and propane only but will not work on electric only. I’ve read some threads about a fuse on the back of it that may be out. I’m guessing you get to that from the door on the side of the trailer where the fridge sits??? Thank you all for the winter suggestions. I’m fumbling my way through this. I want to get another propane tank if this one won’t work that came on the front but it appears the aluminum 30 lb propane tanks that fit on the front are more pricey than others??? Suggestions? Thanks a heap in advance. Not sure where I’m going to end up for the winter long term until next month so insulation under it until I move again in the next couple of weeks seems like it should wait. Oh and one other thing, I’m not sure I understand why the heat pump isn’t kicking on to auxiliary heat using the furnace when it gets below a certain temperature. It did that one night and then never again but the heat pump works and so does the furnace. I guess I don’t quite understand what is supposed to happen with that auxiliary setting. Have a great holidays!!!

[A W Warn]

The propane tank might have a stuck part inside the tank. This can happen when a tank is laid on its side. This mechanism keeps the fuel from discharging if a hose bursts. It is a safety device.

Take the tank off of the trailer. Lift it vertically about 8" off of the dirt, then drop it on the bottom, being careful to not drip it on a stone or sharp object. Do this a half dozen times before reinstalling it. If that frees up the mechanism the fuel should flow.

Regarding the B&S Generator; without a model number there is no way for us to tell you. But coming from Lowes, I doubt it is a pure sine wave converter generator.
If you start it up, then try to talk (not yelling) to someone standing near you and they can't hear you, then it is not one that will make neighbors happy, and probably not the correct type that is safe for the trailer's appliances.

If this is it, it is not one I would suggest.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Briggs-Stra...ine/1000258387

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by A W Warn

The propane tank might have a stuck part inside the tank. This can happen when a tank is laid on its side. This mechanism keeps the fuel from discharging if a hose bursts. It is a safety device.

Take the tank off of the trailer. Lift it vertically about 8" off of the dirt, then drop it on the bottom, being careful to not drip it on a stone or sharp object. Do this a half dozen times before reinstalling it. If that frees up the mechanism the fuel should flow.

Regarding the B&S Generator; without a model number there is no way for us to tell you. But coming from Lowes, I doubt it is a pure sine wave converter generator.
If you start it up, then try to talk (not yelling) to someone standing near you and they can't hear you, then it is not one that will make neighbors happy, and probably not the correct type that is safe for the trailer's appliances.

If this is it, it is not one I would suggest.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Briggs-Stra...ine/1000258387

Generator you mention from Lowes is likely a newer B&S model, and should be fine for sinewave issues. Should be quiet enough. For the propane, not sure about the dropping suggestions. Was it ever working off that tank? You say it is full; if so, try swapping to the other tanks input valve..you can either swap the tanks and leave the plumbing alone, or if it will stretch over, just unscrew the one on empty tank and try on your other tank. Don't forget to turn the tanks off first, and make sure you turn it back on. If there is a problem with something plugging the valve inside the tank, I would talk with your propane dealer about blowing it out somehow. Perhaps someone else here knows better solution.