Winterizing with compressed air?

[NC-Serenity]

Have a 2019 30’ International. Guy I bought it from in PA only drained the lines and hot water tank and then applied compressed air with an adapter at the city water inlet to winterize all the lines. Seemed to work for him in northern PA.

My question is does pressurized air do anything to get the water out of the water pump and bypass valves? Everything else seems to blow out pretty well…

[Daquenzer]

Originally Posted by NC-Serenity

Have a 2019 30’ International. Guy I bought it from in PA only drained the lines and hot water tank and then applied compressed air with an adapter at the city water inlet to winterize all the lines. Seemed to work for him in northern PA.

My question is does pressurized air do anything to get the water out of the water pump and bypass valves? Everything else seems to blow out pretty well…

1. You will need to disconnect the water outlet for the pump and drain it. Have a towel or something ready. Not a lot of water, but it will be some. I believe it tells you to do so in your AS manual.

2. I recommend cleaning out the inlet water filter and dabbing the water up there as well. It could freeze and damage the filter.

Word of warning. The outlet valve can be a problem leaking if you don't get it tight enough. So should check that when you dewinterize in the Spring. I personally used the anti-freeze as well as blow out the line. I didn't like connecting and disconnecting that valve just because it is a bit of a mess, and I didn't like the fact it had a tendency to leak. And it's pretty easy to put in the pink stuff if you have a valve to attach a hose before the water pump to pump it through the system. Then you don't have to worry about the pump. This year I'm just going to blow out the line since I have heated space for storage in my new garage.

But lots of people just blow it out and are good to go.

[DaveP]

Originally Posted by NC-Serenity

Have a 2019 30’ International. Guy I bought it from in PA only drained the lines and hot water tank and then applied compressed air with an adapter at the city water inlet to winterize all the lines. Seemed to work for him in northern PA.

My question is does pressurized air do anything to get the water out of the water pump and bypass valves? Everything else seems to blow out pretty well…

It does not in my trailer. When I have finished blowing out my lines, there is still water left in the strainer and water inlet to the pump. I always remove the strainer and empty the water, then run the pump for a few seconds to get any internal water out. I then put in the antifreeze through the winterization valve. Belt and suspenders cause I hate fixing thing that break from freezing.

[Kanusport]

Hello
I have used air exclusively to winterize my camper. You need to really run the air and cycle the toilet etc. don't forget about outside shower etc. remove outlet from water pump as others mentioned and run it for a few seconds with towel under there to catch water. Pour some antifreeze down all the drains and you are done.
Sean

[aftermath]

NC-Serenity, yes you can winterize by using air only. I have been doing this since '09 because I found the location of my water pump in my 25FB to be very difficult to deal with. Our local Airstream dealer told me that they winterize all of their trailers, and the ones customers bring in, using only air.
Once I am "done" with blowing out all the lines and fixtures, I turn on the water pump which clears the water out of the pump and sends it down line. I then reconnect the air and blow the lines again. You certainly can get to the pump and remove the screen and filter. If you can do that easily I would suggest that you install a bypass designed to draw antifreeze from the gallon jug and put it in the lines. This, is probably the best method of them all.

I live on the Eastern edge of Washington state. It gets very cold here, many days in the teens and you can count on single digit nights each year. Getting below zero happens now and then but it is not real common.

[waninae39]

we stopped using antifreeze a few years ago.

we only blow air now. we only add antifreeze in the toilet top and in the sink traps

search this forum on many posts on how to blow out

[BambiVT]

I'm a newbie, winterized with the pink juice last winter at the Colonial Airstream dealership and then drove home to Northern VT (where it can get down to -20 degrees) and now ready to winterize by myself for the first time. After reading all of the threads and viewing lots of videos, I'm mostly reading to use compressed air + pink stuff in the traps, but, one major question nags me.

The Airstream video says we should blow out the black & grey tanks (combined black/grey for us in the 16RB) first, then do the supply lines, then the pink juice in the traps. But, won't the pink stuff displace water in the traps that'll go down into the black/grey tank, and sit there to freeze all winter?

Or, does blowing out the black/grey tank actually get rid of all the water in the traps too? Hard to believe that, but I guess it's possible.

Anyone have a good answer to this? I haven't been able to find anything on any of the threads but I'm happy to be redirected if it's already there.

Thanks in advance!

[ROBERT CROSS]

I blow too...

Bob
🇺🇸

Disclaimer....have the advantage of a 25g dual stage compressor, that's able to maintain 35-45 psi while I open and close ALL lines. (I leave at least one line open while the air is attached)

[aftermath]

Originally Posted by BambiVT

... I'm mostly reading to use compressed air + pink stuff in the traps, but, one major question nags me.

The Airstream video says we should blow out the black & grey tanks (combined black/grey for us in the 16RB) first, then do the supply lines, then the pink juice in the traps. But, won't the pink stuff displace water in the traps that'll go down into the black/grey tank, and sit there to freeze all winter?

Or, does blowing out the black/grey tank actually get rid of all the water in the traps too? Hard to believe that, but I guess it's possible.

Anyone have a good answer to this? I haven't been able to find anything on any of the threads but I'm happy to be redirected if it's already there.

Thanks in advance!

First of all, you can't "blow out" the black and gray tanks. When you hookup the compressor to the trailer you are pressurizing your water lines. The black and gray tanks can be drained using the valves. That is it.


All the traps will hold water unless you flush this out, not blow it out, with the pink stuff. The pink will replace the water in the traps. I add enough to make sure excess pink ends up in the tanks. You can open the valves to make sure all the water is gone. If you are really concerned, I would add pink to the traps then open the valves to the gray and black tanks to let the water out and then go back and add more pink to the traps. Remember that the damage can occur when the water expands. A little water in the gray, black and even your hot water tank has plenty of room to expand.

So, read through the posts about winterizing. If you use air just make sure you open ALL the faucets, the sprayer at the kitchen sink, the toilet flush valve and the outside shower, if you have one.

[aftermath]

Bob,



What is the point to leave one line open at all times?

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by aftermath

Bob,



What is the point to leave one line open at all times?

Paranoia...well not really 'cuz i do have it regulated @ 45psi, more like force of habit working with a 175psi compressor and 200' of air line.

Bob
🇺🇸

[Steamy1]

I blow out my lines and use a air compressor oil/water separator to make sure no oil or dirt from the compressor is injected in the system.

Also, I use a small leaf blower to blow out all of the traps while the dump valves are still open. I would rather not have the anti-freeze sitting in the traps all winter.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Cup of AF in the traps...they are nowhere near the FW tank or lines.

Bob
🇺🇸

[farafield]

I just looked through my 2018 Sport 16 OM and am not seeing where it says to blow out the holding tank.

[n2916s]

The holding tanks are not a problem. Simply dump and flush as you would after any camping trip and leave the valves open.

Certainly water expands as it freezes but when was the last time an ice cube tray in your freezer was damaged? As long as there is room for expansion in any axis, no problems…

[Gene]

Water expands 11% when it freezes. So you could have lots of water in the tanks and not damage anything except possibly the valve at the bottom since expansion may crack something there. A little water in the tanks, no problem. The water heater usually has water at the bottom and it will not harm it to freeze. You may want to blow out the water heater to get solids out, but it is too hard to get it all out. The water heater is made that way. No need to put antifreeze in black, grey, fresh or water heater tanks.

I blow and then I antifreeze. I know theoretically you can blow out all the water, but drops can flow down and pool and maybe crack something. It is often much harder to fix a plumbing problem than to put antifreeze in. Don't forget the kitchen sprayer and the toilet valve behind the toilet—I did the first year and both froze. The valve in the toilet—put a half cup of water on top of it. Helps keep the rubber seal more flexible. The only way to be sure you got the water out of the P traps in the drains is to pour a cup of antifreeze in the sinks and shower. The antifreeze displaces the water. Can a P trap freeze since there is air above and below for expansion? Maybe, maybe not. I don't want to fix those either.

I set the compressor at 60 psi. That is standard city water pressure (though many city water systems are more or less).

I know many people just blow out the lines and are fine. Perhaps if they weren't fine, they would be embarassed to tell us.

[Fungus]

3 degrees F here in central Texas last February. I had blown out the lines. AF in traps but nowhere else. All is fine. Takes a while to blow until zero mist. There was no mist in the pump when I disconnected it to check. Luggable compressor with pressure gauges for out pressure and internal pressure of the compressor tank.

[Ted S.]

Originally Posted by aftermath

Bob,



What is the point to leave one line open at all times?

To avoid inadvertently over pressurizing the water lines.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by farafield

I just looked through my 2018 Sport 16 OM and am not seeing where it says to blow out the holding tank.

How would you go about blowing out the tank...Thru the ?
Never heard of that.


On the FW tank just leave drain open long enough, a few gallons in the tank is not a concern.

Bob
🇺🇸

I learned several years ago that if you drain the tank with the AS level side to side there is 20min of water left in the tank.
The tank had 'drained' then I lifted the streetside.....

[aftermath]

Another interesting point. Draining the FW tank is done by opening the valve at the bottom. It the trailer is not dead level there will be some water left inside. This will not cause any trouble with the tank itself but....it could damage the drain valve...long shot....but not impossible.


You can make sure that your valve is lower than the tank. Or...you could drain it and then raise the other side like Bob explained or.....you can do like I do. After winterizing, leave the valve open and then tow your trailer to where you park it for the winter. I also leave the valve open after I get there.