Winterizing with Air: Nothing Happens!!!

[HowieE]

Originally Posted by CruizinDux

I agree with ORTA15 re the successful use use of air pressure and not requiring the use of AF. Granted my experience is much more limited than many on the forums but the 5 or so winterization's have so far been successful.

The one caution against not using antifreeze is the fact that purging with air will not remove the water in the pump or the filter just before the pump. Both are hard fixtures and do not have the forgiveness to freezing that plastic pipe has.

[OTRA15]

Originally Posted by HowieE

The one caution against not using antifreeze is the fact that purging with air will not remove the water in the pump or the filter just before the pump. Both are hard fixtures and do not have the forgiveness to freezing that plastic pipe has.

Correct, which is why I said this before:

Originally Posted by OTRA15

. . .
The pump and supply line from the fresh water tank require manual procedures not germane right now.
. . .

[CruizinDux]

Originally Posted by OTRA15

Correct, which is why I said this before:

Thanks Peter for clarifying. I was speaking of the CW lines and fixtures themselves. Obviously the pump and it's supply line from the tank require special dispensation.

I think I'm getting a 1/2 male fitting with some tubing...having trouble getting this 'ol body down to the pump house elevation to clear the line back to the tank. A rag is sufficient for catching any residual pump water on the outflow side.

Bob

[OTRA15]

Originally Posted by Rgentum

. . .
Where's the air going???
. . .

Wondering if you have narrowed down the possibilities here?

Thanks,

Peter

[Rgentum]

Thank you, responders, for all your suggestions & recommendations. I appreciate your generosity.

Initial comments:
1. The air hose was connected to the "city water" inlet.
2. I used a portable, "pancake" air compressor. When I connected it to the AS, I set the compressor at 50 psi & turned it on. The compressor was never able to maintain more than 20 psi.
3. In my initial post, I said that I had turned three valves on the back side of the hot water heater. Upon checking, I had turned only one, with a yellow plastic handle, turning the handle perpendicular to its line, diverting the intake water away from the hot water heater.

Further comments.

1. I disconnected the distal end of a short, flex hose on the back of the hot water heater.
2. I substituted for the pancake compressor a 1.5 hp compressor, set it at 40 psi, and ran it, connected to the water inlet of the AS.
3. No air was forthcoming from the disconnected flex hose.
4. I checked the trailer's various water valves & found that the outside shower's cold water valve was open & air was coming out of the shower head. I closed the valve.
5. Air was now coming out of the disconnected flex hose, which I reconnected to its socket.
6. The compressor was maintaining 40 psi.
7. When I opened any water valve of the trailer, air came out.
8. I closed all the water valves & disconnected the compressor.

Air blowout now completed. Thank you again.

[CruizinDux]

Originally Posted by Moflash

Please tell us the difference in 30lbs of air pressure and 30 lbs of water pressure in relationship to a Pex system.Lol


Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums

from a recent thread I would have guessed they were the same

https://www.physicsforums.com/thread...ghness.142407/

( http://www.airforums.com/forums/f458...on-144198.html )

[HowieE]

We are getting very close to Over Thinking this issue. The purpose of blowing the water out of the system while winterizing is just that, blowing it out. We are not attempting to reach a state of the absence of water but rather reducing the amount of water to a point that it poses no threat of braking a pipe or faucet. You will never get all the water out unless you heated the trailer to the point of evaporation or pulled a vacuum on the system to the point the water itself boiled off.

[CruizinDux]

I included the link as I thought the discussion of the tankless inflator vs the tanked compressor (pressure up first vs open valve first) was interesting.

Bob

[warmrain]

Originally Posted by OTRA15

For now I would let the air pressure fill the water heater [drain plug in, and blow-off valve closed], so that you can use this air pressure to clear the hot water lines in all of the trailer.

How about just closing the water heater bypass valve? isn't that what it is there for?!

[Caffeinated]

N

Originally Posted by warmrain

How about just closing the water heater bypass valve? isn't that what it is there for?!

Yep.

Mike

[Arnoldter]

I have a 2016 27 FB. I went through all the steps today to winterize, but I could not get antifreeze to run out of faucets. I had 2 gallons of antifreeze I pumped through the water pump at the intake side directly into pump. Is there a different place to pump antifreeze in?When do you open facets? With pump running while draining antifreeze bottle? How many valves are there to turn on hot water bypass, I saw only one. Low point drains were closed. Thanks for any suggestions.

[HowieE]

If you pumped more than a gallon of antifreeze into the system you still have the hot water heater inline.

There used to be one valve in the bypass line but I suspect Airstream has taken the cheaper way out and now uses 3 valves, all of which will be on the back side of the heater. Set the bypass valves, the handle indicates flow or stopped. Drain the water heater. Then blow out the system one faucet at a time till you get mist. Now pump antifreeze in while opening one valve at a time, starting with the closest valves to the pump. You should see antifreeze almost at once. Continue till all faucets and toilet show antifreeze. Pour antifreeze into each trap, about 6 oz. and cove the flapper in the toilet with a 1/2 in of antifreeze.

You should be able to do this with just 1 gallon.

[warmrain]

Datapoint: my 2013 FC 23D still had the 1/4 turn hot water bypass valve.

[Arnoldter]

Thanks I missed a valve shut off on hot water heater.