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09-19-2009, 08:41 PM
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#1
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retired USA/USAF
2001 30' Excella
Somerset
, New Jersey
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,418
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Winterizing question ??????
We have an '85 Excella 31 footer. I've been reading about winterizing AS's and see some mention of water heater by-pass valves.
Were they standard on these units or after market installations ?? My water heater is on the curb side below the bathroom vanity. I don't think there is any easy interior access. From the exterior access door I have access to the supply line and a drain valve. How would I know if there was a by-pass installed ???
I plan to blow the lines and install RV anti-freeze to the traps. If I drain the water heater tank, blow the lines and leave the drain valve open is that adaquate for winterization of the water heater ??? I also plan to disconnect the lines to the pump and leave them off . Any further advise is welcome. I plan to use it in the coming weeks and will winterize upon returning home.
Thanks in advance for all you're input.
R. Kriz
New Jersey
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09-19-2009, 09:01 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1979 30' Argosy
Havelock
, where we park it
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,652
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I am not sure about the access door on a 85 excella, I am sure someone that has one will tell you where it is located. As far north as you are I would want to do a little more than put antifreeze in the traps. Even if you blow the lines out I have seen water settle in a low area and cause a leak with a hard freeze. The hot water tank should be ok drained.
Marvin
__________________
Marvin & Annie
Niki (fur baby)
1979 Argosy 30 (Costalotta)
WBCCI 10103
"Happiness is a warm Puppy" Charles Schulz
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09-19-2009, 09:24 PM
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#3
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Rivet Master
1977 31' Sovereign
1963 26' Overlander
1989 34' Excella
Johnsburg
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,944
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Right on. Just blowing is not enough. Fill the water lines (hot and cold) with antifreeze after you blow them out. Do that by disconnecting the line from the fresh water tank to the pump and inserting it into the antifreeze bottles. Then pump until good color antifreeze comes out of every water outlet including the john. You will need at least two gallons to do this, if the water heater has a bypass on it. If not, then you will have to fill the tank with 6 gallons more of antifreeze to be able to purge the hot water lines. You also need to, completely as possible, empty the fresh water and output tanks. You then should put at least 1/2 a gallon of antifreeze in each to tank to take care of the water you could not drain.
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09-20-2009, 12:29 AM
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#4
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Retired Moderator
1992 29' Excella
madison
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,644
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__________________
you call them ferrets, i call them weasels.
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09-20-2009, 06:07 AM
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#5
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Refurbished 89 Excella
1988 29' Excella
Sugar Valley
, Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 246
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I really don't know about an 85, but my 89, side bath, has a gate valve under the vanity. It has a fold down door directly under the sink. Look over to the right at the water lines and you should see a gate valve of some kind. Mine is a red lever that I turn 90 degrees to the water line that it is connected to turn it off thereby isolating the hot water tank.
Good luck.......Dennis
__________________
Dennis & Susan
D&D Farms, Sugar Valley, Ga
Registered Boer goats
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09-20-2009, 10:15 AM
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#6
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Rivet Master
1984 29' Sovereign
Savannah
, Missouri
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,478
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Quote:
Originally Posted by polarlyse
We have an '85 Excella 31 footer. I've been reading about winterizing AS's and see some mention of water heater by-pass valves.
Were they standard on these units or after market installations ?? My water heater is on the curb side below the bathroom vanity. I don't think there is any easy interior access. From the exterior access door I have access to the supply line and a drain valve. How would I know if there was a by-pass installed ???
I plan to blow the lines and install RV anti-freeze to the traps. If I drain the water heater tank, blow the lines and leave the drain valve open is that adaquate for winterization of the water heater ??? I also plan to disconnect the lines to the pump and leave them off . Any further advise is welcome. I plan to use it in the coming weeks and will winterize upon returning home.
Thanks in advance for all you're input.
R. Kriz
New Jersey
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R. Kriz,
Additionally, don't forget to drain the shower head and, the complete hot/cold water line leading to the shower system. The other thing is the toilet flush water system (which is a part of the toilet's plumbing) needs to be completely blown out.(I always leave the toilet's flapper open during the winter by plastic bottle attached to a strong string) If you have a cleaning wand next to the toilet,(you do) be sure it's drained. Hot water heater is simple, drain it and blow it till it's dry..Then leave it open..No need to fill water heater with antifreeze..
Pour a little Anti freezes in all of the traps(including the shower drain) and, pour half of what's left over in each grey and black water tank.
The whole process shouldn't take more than 45 minutes to an hour..depending if you have a helper inside.
Good Luck~
__________________
WBCCI 5292 AIR 807
NEU #64
New England Unit
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09-20-2009, 11:09 AM
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#7
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Rivet Master
1971 25' Tradewind
1993 34' Excella
Currently Looking...
Estancia
, New Mexico
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 7,742
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I am not sure about all models but the bypass is usually not factory. you can make one yourself or get a kit.
__________________
Sail on silver girl. Sail on by. Your time has come to shine.
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09-20-2009, 11:33 AM
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#8
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Rivet Master
1991 34' Excella
Princeton
, New Jersey
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,070
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If you do not find a bypass valve or valves on the back of your hot water heater consider installing one before you winterize. It will save you time and money over time. 5 gallons of antifreeze per year.
The factory bypass system is a single handle that turns 90 degrees. After market systems generally are 3 valves, one each on the heater input and output lines and one bridging between these lines. Close the in/output lines and open bypass line for winterizing. Valves are quarter turn and the handle aligns with the with the position.
Check to see if you have a filter from the fresh water tank before the pump. If so add your antifreeze before this filter as the bowl will have water in it that will not be removed by draining or blowing.
If you do not blow out the system from the city water connection that line, to the connection of the rest of the system, will have water in it and no antifreeze will replace it as it is a dead headed line.
With the hot water heater bypassed you should use about 3/4 of a gallon and see antifreeze coming out of every water appliance hot and cold.
I never use the factory drains as they are gereraly poorly located and very hard to open. The risk of braking them is not worth using them. The antifreeze will displace any water in the drain valve drops.
I drain the hot water heater and then slip in a piece of small hose and siphon out the remaining 2 inches. This is not important from a freeze standpoint, as the heaters sides are round and ice will climb the sides, but I like to draw off the scale dirt that has collected during the year.
It is not necessary to put antifreeze in the sewer tanks as they are vented and any remaining water, after a good draining, will evaporate. Draining the fresh water tank, while the trailer is tipped to the drain is good enough.
__________________
WBCCI 12156 AIR 3144 WACHUNG TAC NJ6
2004 Excursion 4x4
1991 34 ft. Excella +220,000 miles, new laminated flooring, new upholstery, new 3200 lbs axles
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09-20-2009, 01:12 PM
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#9
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Halimer
2006 25' Classic
New Hyde Park
, New York
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 244
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Here is a winterization guide I found at Airstream's company site. It gives a specific order for opening faucets/valves during air pressurization. There is no mention what to do if your hot water heater has the bypass valves on it.
Mark
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09-21-2009, 08:01 PM
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#10
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Rivet Master
1984 29' Sovereign
Savannah
, Missouri
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,478
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Quote:
Originally Posted by halimer
Here is a winterization guide I found at Airstream's company site. It gives a specific order for opening faucets/valves during air pressurization. There is no mention what to do if your hot water heater has the bypass valves on it.
Mark
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Almost no Airstream was built with bypass valves on the water heater, so I am not surprised..
It's nice to see the guide and, the specific order.
Too bad we couldn't have that as a "sticky note"..
__________________
WBCCI 5292 AIR 807
NEU #64
New England Unit
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09-21-2009, 08:22 PM
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#11
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Halimer
2006 25' Classic
New Hyde Park
, New York
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 244
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My hot water heater came with the bypass kit from the factory.
mark
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09-21-2009, 08:35 PM
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#12
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Rivet Master
1984 29' Sovereign
Savannah
, Missouri
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,478
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Quote:
Originally Posted by halimer
My hot water heater came with the bypass kit from the factory.
mark
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That's true Mark,
At some point, it was made available by the factory..
For references, the winterizing guide you posted was published in 2008, as I see it.
__________________
WBCCI 5292 AIR 807
NEU #64
New England Unit
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09-22-2009, 10:26 AM
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#13
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retired USA/USAF
2001 30' Excella
Somerset
, New Jersey
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,418
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Thanks all for the education. I will do the job in a few weeks but I don't think I would have attempted it with out the great suggestions from you all with more experience than I. I looks to be pretty straightforward and pretty basic. I have seen some refrence to " low point valves ". I haven't really looked hard but I have not noticed if I have them. After I pump some antifreeze through the plumbing system do I leave the suction and pressure lines at the pump off ??? or connected. When I got the trailer the previous owner had left them off. However, it seems to me that if you pump the system with anti freeze you would have to leave them connected to maintain the closed system or risk leakdown. If you blow the system and leave it dry it shouldn't matter and be safer to leave them off.
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09-22-2009, 11:16 AM
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#14
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Rivet Master
1991 34' Excella
Princeton
, New Jersey
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,070
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Quote:
Originally Posted by polarlyse
I have seen some refrence to " low point valves ". I haven't really looked hard but I have not noticed if I have them. After I pump some antifreeze through the plumbing system do I leave the suction and pressure lines at the pump off ??? or connected.
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There is no reason to ever have the pressure side of the pump disconnected. When you pump in the antifreeze it will have to be connected to supply the antifreeze to the rest of the trailer. Yes reconnect the suction side of the pump when finished. That keeps things out during the winter, Spiders, and all you have to do in the spring is put some water in the fresh water tank anf flush out the antifreeze. Also flush from the city connection side.
As I mentioned above the factory low point drains are often hard to get to and hard to turn without risking braking them so I don't attempt to use them but rather blow out the system and back fill with antifreeze.
__________________
WBCCI 12156 AIR 3144 WACHUNG TAC NJ6
2004 Excursion 4x4
1991 34 ft. Excella +220,000 miles, new laminated flooring, new upholstery, new 3200 lbs axles
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09-28-2009, 11:02 AM
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#15
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Rivet Master
1956 22' Flying Cloud
1953 32' Liner
1955 22' Safari
Valley View
, Texas
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,971
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It is that time again...
I found this old post and thought it would be OK to bring it forward at this time. It REALLY will save some big trouble and expenses. Thanks to Tom the author....from Canada where it really matters.
Trailer winterizing procedure
1 Wash, dry, and Walbernize exterior of trailer
2 Have LP tank re-filled if one is empty.
3 Buy 1 gallon of potable anti-freeze.
4 Store load distribution bars and sway control in storage slot.
5 Ensure trailer tire pressures are 50 psi
6 Fit wheel covers for UV protection.
7 Store outside chairs and table inside.
8 Lower aerials.
9 Remove all clothing, food, bedding, and "stuff", that will
not be kept in trailer.
10 Fit sun protection cards in front and rear windows.
11 Turn off water heater in rear outside compartment and drain.
12 Remove battery from water heater re-lighter and store in
trailer.
13 Turn off refrigerator, empty, and wipe interior clean.
Carton of baking soda on shelf, leave door ajar.
14 Fit bug screen to outside refigerator access flap.
15 Turn funace thermostat (on wall) to "off", and remove
batteries. Furnace has permanent bugscreens.
16 Turn off both gas bottles on A-frame by turning knobs
clockwise.
17 Fit sun screen round gas bottle cover and A-frame.
18 Ensure batteries are fully charged, topped up, and clean on top,
then remove to where they can be charged once a month.
19 Drain black water tank, half fill with clean water and dump
again. Close dump valve.
20 Drain grey tank. Close dump valve.
21 Put a gallon of clean water in black tank via WC, and add a
capfull of Eco-Save.
22 Remove sewage hose, wash out, and store in rear bumper.
23 Turn off mains water supply at outside tap, remove hose from
source and trailer.
24 Empty hose,clean exterior, join ends together, store in
rear hatch.
25 Drain cold water tank by removing drain bolt in kerbside
wheel arch.Replace drain bolt. Or, pump all water out.
26 Add table-spoon of baking soda in a pint of water to tank.
Insert plug in air vent by filler cap.
27 Press on valve on WC spray head for a few seconds to drain
this line.
28 Open drain valve in rear roadside locker.
29 Turn water heater bypass taps to their bypass position.
30 Open pressure-relief valve at top of water heater, remove
nylon drain plug (box wrench), drain tank.
31 Replace plug, close valve.
32 Tank water filter is under flap at base of curbside wardrobe.
Remove top, drain, clean, and replace top.
33 Retract corner scissor jacks.
34 Lower front of trailer using front power jack until water
ceases to drain from valves.
35 Lower rear of trailer using front power jack until water
ceases to drain from valves.
36 Level trailer, and support with corner scissor jacks.
37 Close all valves and faucets, WC, spray head and shower.
38 Hook up Air Compressor with home made attachments.
39 Open all faucets and shower head, starting furthest from water
inlet and working to closer taps, doing the toilet last.
40 Open cold water faucet in kitchen till air runs without water.
41 When water stops coming from faucet, open another, then
close the first.
42 Continue with all valves, faucets, spray head, and WC until
all have been blown through.
43 Ensure one of these is always open, so as not to risk a
burst pipe through excess pressure, unless you have a forty pound
pressure regulator set on the compressor.
44 Stop the compressor. Close the final open valve/faucet.
45 Between the tank filter and the tank pump is a T-joint with
an either/or switch. Switch to T supply if you are going to fill the
pipes with antifreeze. (I don't)(if not, skip to 50)
46 Connect the attached pipe into a gallon of potable anti-
freeze.
47 Switch on the pump via the rocker switch in the kitchen or
bathroom.
48 Open one faucet, drain valve, WC, spray head at a time until
pink anti-freeze runs steadily out.
49 Replace the anti-freeze containers as necessary.Return T
switch to normal position.
50 Pour a cup of anti-freeze into each drain trap (3) and a
capfull of cooking oil to prevent evaporation.
51 Dry all surfaces of sink, shower and WC.
52 Open WC bowl valve, apply silicon grease to dry valve
surfaces, then close valve.
53 Place containers of drying agent at both ends of trailer,
and one in sink.
54 Remove batteries from smoke detector and carbon monoxide
detector.
55 Switch off LP gas detector by exit door near floor.
56 Switch off all interior and exterior lights and radio.
57 Disconnect city electric supply,store cable in rear hatch.
58 Turn off electic master switch behind sofa.
59 Disconnect cables from battery. Connect solar battery
maintainer.
60 Clean interior and sweep floor.
61 Close windows, curtains and lower blinds.
62 Close all roof vents, and extractor vent in bathroom.
63 Lock all exterior storage lockers, water flap and battery
locker. Put these keys where they can be found again.
64 Lock exit door and raise step
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