Winterizing / De-Winterizing

[Adventure.AS]

It is time to head south and use my de-winterizing checklist.

FWIW, here is the check list that I use when winterizing and de-winterizing.

Airstream Winterizing

The main consideration in winterizing the trailer is to guard against freeze damage to the fresh water system lines, tank, and pump; the waste drain system including the traps and tanks; the water heater; and the batteries.

To completely winterize your trailer follow this procedure:

1. Disconnect city water and turn off the water pump.
2. Level the trailer from side to side and front to rear.
3. Replace the galley faucet filter with the bypass pipe. Store filter in a warm place.
4. If equipped, turn off valve from the cold water line under the lavatory sink to the drinking water purification unit and remove the filter and store in a warm place.
5. Open all faucets.
6. Open all low-point drain valves including drain plug or valve on water heater. (This will create a ’siphon’ effect and suck most of the water out of the plumbing.)
7. While the water is draining from the system, open and flush the toilet-flushing valve and depress hand spray thumb button on the telephone shower head while holding down inside the tub and drain all water from the flexible hose.
8. Remove outlet hose from water pump.
9. Disconnect the water pump inlet hose and turn the pump on until all the water is expelled. (This water, about 1/2 cup, can be caught in a towel or rag.)
10. Lower the front of the trailer as far as the jack will allow until water ceases to drain, and then crank the jack up as high as it will go and allow any remaining water to drain out.
11. After the water has stopped running from the drain lines, close the faucets and connect your air compressor (with adapter) and apply at least 40-60 PSI of air pressure at the city water inlet. Be sure low-point drains are open. This will force any remaining water from the water heater and remove any water that may be trapped in low areas.
12. Close the low-point drains, re-connect the water pump outlet tube and replace the water heater plug.
13. Open the faucets (hot and cold) and shower head (turning the valve to both hot and cold) and toilet flush valve one at a time until all remaining water has been expelled from the system.
14. Close all the faucets, etc.
15. Optionally, now, if desired you can use a high quality, non-toxic propylene glycol RV antifreeze to further protect the water system.
* By-pass the water heater!
* Make sure that the outlet side of the water pump is connected.
* Connect a hose with a threaded connection to the inlet side of the water pump and insert other end into the jug of RV antifreeze.
* Turn on the pump and open each faucet and shower head and toilet valve one at a time (both hot and cold sides) until antifreeze comes out.
* Close the faucets etc. and turn off the water pump.
* Disconnect the outlet side hose of the water pump and open all faucets etc.
* Drain the antifreeze from the system by opening the low point drains. (Collect the antifreeze to use in the drains and toilet.)
* Reconnect the inlet and outlet hose sides of the water pump and close all faucets etc.
16. Pour a cup of approved non-toxic RV antifreeze that has been listed by a recognized testing authority such as Underwriter Lab into the lavatory, sink, and tub drains to prevent trap freeze-up.
17. Blow compressed air through the black tank flush valve. (You can also connect a small length of hose to the flush inlet and put some RV antifreeze through the valve.)
18. Open the waste-holding tank dump valves, and drain and flush the tanks thoroughly (this is very important as the sewage in the tanks, if frozen, could seriously damage the tanks) Plan ahead and have this done at a dump station.
19. Remove the batteries from your trailer and store in a cool, dry place where there is no danger of freezing. It is very important for optimum life of a battery to check it periodically and to keep it fully charged.
20. Remove any items (food, cosmetics, etc.) from trailer interior that might be damaged by freezing, or that might damage the trailer if containers should break. 

CAUTION
Remove all RV antifreeze spillage from all drain and faucet parts after winterizing. Failure to do so could result in damage to the finish of the plumbing fixtures.

Airstream De-winterizing

1. Install fully charged batteries.

If you didn’t drained the RV antifreeze as a last step during winterization:
1. Disconnect the exhaust side of the water pump.
2. Open all of the faucets and then the low-point drains to ensure all of the RV antifreeze is drained from the system, then close the valves etc.
3. Re-install the shower head, hot water tank drain plug (if still out) and close all faucets.
4. Connect you air compressor and apply at least 40-60 PSI of air pressure at the city water inlet and open the low-point drains again to blow out any remaining antifreeze, then close the low-point drain valves.
5. Open the faucets one at a time (both hot and cold) to expel any remaining antifreeze.
6. Open the hot water tank bypass valve.
7. Remove the hot water tank low drain plug to ensure any remaining water is expelled, then re-install the plug.
8. Reconnect both the inlet and exhaust hoses to the water pump and are tightened securely.
9. Disconnect the air compressor.

Now:
1. Put water into the fresh water tank, turn on the water pump and open each faucet (both hot and cold), shower head and toilet flush one at a time until water comes out in a steady stream. Turn pump off.
2. Connect city water if available and continue to run fresh water through the system for a short time to ensure any remaining antifreeze is out of the system.
3. Fill the hot water tank by opening a hot water tap and running the water pump or using a city water connection.
* Be sure not to heat the hot water tank until you are sure it is full.
4. Re-install the under sink water filter.
5. If so equipped, re-install the drinking water purification filter and open the valve under the lavatory sink.
6. Drain the waste tanks at a dump station to ensure the valves are working properly.

[Howard L.]

Never winterizing in south Texas before now, I’ve discovered the cold and hot waterline low point drain valves, on my 30 FC, are butted up next to the plywood floor edge and can not be turned. So, I winterized everything else—drained hot water heater, closed bypass, BOTH blew out water lines with air and using internal pump, flushed with RV antifreeze. In essence, accomplished every step except the low point draining of the water lines first.
Question, did the pink RV antifreeze flow through the low points when pumping it through the lines and each faucet/toilet, or do you think I may well still have plain old H2O sitting there.
I hate to run the furnace for, what will be 5 days, unattended, but at temps below 10 here I should if not sure the system is void of water.
Suggestions?

[CBWELL]

Make sure that you run the pink through the toilet until comes out in the bowl, and use the hand wand as well until it runs pink in the bowl. If you pumped pink through the lines , you probably got some in the low point drain lines. Try to push the lines a little bit to the side and try to crack open the drain lines, even a little bit. The lines are a little flexible and you won't hurt anything to move them a small amount.

[wulfraat]

Howard I’d suggest you use a flathead screwdriver and gently pry the low point drain valve open using its little plastic tab.

Filling with pink stuff is good secondary insurance but will depend on how much water is still in the line at the low points.

[B. Cole]

Originally Posted by wulfraat

Howard I’d suggest you use a flathead screwdriver and gently pry the low point drain valve open using its little plastic tab.

Filling with pink stuff is good secondary insurance but will depend on how much water is still in the line at the low points.

The low point drain valves, that can't be reached without a tedious effort, sound like just another , in a very huge line, of Airstream "Engineering " failures. Amazing.
Ouch....

[Howard L.]

Originally Posted by CBWELL

Make sure that you run the pink through the toilet until comes out in the bowl, and use the hand wand as well until it runs pink in the bowl. If you pumped pink through the lines , you probably got some in the low point drain lines. Try to push the lines a little bit to the side and try to crack open the drain lines, even a little bit. The lines are a little flexible and you won't hurt anything to move them a small amount.

Can’t pull the valve up or push it down enough to allow a turn. Cold valve is the same. I pumped another 3/4 gal of pink through the system but to be safe, I’m going to just turn the furnace to 40 deg. For at least these couple of days below 10 deg.

Looks like a summer project getting in there and removing an inch of flooring. A Dremel tool job for sure.

[wulfraat]

Good grief! What a PITA.

[Howard L.]

OR. From 50 some years ago in SE Asia. FUBAR.

[Howard L.]

Thank you 3 for quick replies. So, for future use by maybe someone, an update: on this 30 FC at least, where the H2O plumbing is on both sides of the trailer, the hot and cold lines run in a 6-8 inch wide metal tray under the floor from one side of the trailer to the other. As seen in the photo, the drain valves are in the same area and right next to the water heater. I was able to get my fingers back past the drain valves along the water lines and found the T and 90 connection back to the valves only 2 inches past the opening. For this short distance, I feel pretty sure the antifreeze soaked into what would amount to 4 inches of dead end water line leading up to the valves.
So, I’m probably OK. To be safe, since hooked up to AC power, I placed a small space heater blowing warm air down toward the valves and opening leading to the drain line Ts.
It’s still FUBAR.

[CaptainDavid]

Nice detailed procedure. To be sure I don't miss anything important valves, is the a good reference with pictures I can get for a 2018 Classic? The manual I got has a very general picture. I don't want to miss any valves etc.

thanks,

[Gaile]

Well, I did my first winterization with the help of my neighbors Compressor. I believe I have done it right. I am praying I have done it right. I live in upper SC and we do get a few cold/below freezing nights. I am thinking about putting some Styrofoam around the perimeter of the trailer. Any thoughts?

[Dennis C]

I think step 9 in the instructions above is incorrect.

It reads “Disconnect the water pump inlet hose and turn the pump on until all the water is expelled. (This water, about 1/2 cup, can be caught in a towel or rag.)”

The water pump outlet hose should be disconnected to expel additional water, not the inlet hose.

[richard5933]

Originally Posted by Gaile

Well, I did my first winterization with the help of my neighbors Compressor. I believe I have done it right. I am praying I have done it right. I live in upper SC and we do get a few cold/below freezing nights. I am thinking about putting some Styrofoam around the perimeter of the trailer. Any thoughts?

The Styrofoam will unlikely be of any benefit to the water system staying warmer, but it might be an invitation to all sorts of critters to make a home in your trailer. It might also contribute to moisture buildup on sunnier/warmer winter days.

Up here in Wisconsin that would be the perfect place for rabbits, mice, and maybe even less desirous critters to make a hole an take shelter from the cold winter wind. Once they're comfortable underneath the trailer, it's only a matter of time till they realize they'd be even more comfy inside it.

I keep my coach parked out back all winter, and I keep a clear path shoveled around it so the snow doesn't make the same type of windbreak as the foam you're describing. Encourages them to go elsewhere for shelter and not into my coach.

If you winterized correctly, there is no need to do anything else to protect your plumbing.

[fran&frank]

Originally Posted by Dennis C

I think step 9 in the instructions above is incorrect.

It reads “Disconnect the water pump inlet hose and turn the pump on until all the water is expelled. (This water, about 1/2 cup, can be caught in a towel or rag.)”

The water pump outlet hose should be disconnected to expel additional water, not the inlet hose.

Step 8 was remove outlet hose, so this should work fine.--Frank

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by Howard L.

Can’t pull the valve up or push it down enough to allow a turn. Cold valve is the same. I pumped another 3/4 gal of pink through the system but to be safe, I’m going to just turn the furnace to 40 deg. For at least these couple of days below 10 deg.

Looks like a summer project getting in there and removing an inch of flooring. A Dremel tool job for sure.

Fiberboard...easy to enlarge the access. Just do it.

Bob
🇺🇸

[Dennis C]

Originally Posted by fran&frank

Step 8 was remove outlet hose, so this should work fine.--Frank

If you remove the outlet hose in step 8 and then the inlet hose in step 9, you probably won't get much from the water pump. I'd think you want to keep the inlet house connected when you run the pump to expel water in that line. with both hoses disconnected, the pump won't have much water to pump.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by Gaile

Well, I did my first winterization with the help of my neighbors Compressor. I believe I have done it right. I am praying I have done it right. I live in upper SC and we do get a few cold/below freezing nights. I am thinking about putting some Styrofoam around the perimeter of the trailer. Any thoughts?

Overkill. As long as the all water has been expelled, just leave ALL the lines/faucets open, don't forget the fresh water tank outlet. Lay the shower head on the floor, pour AF in the traps.
POI I leave the tanks empty, with nothing in the toilet except seal lube on the flapper valve.

Bob
🇺🇸

[Tom Servo]

I hope this doesn't constitute a thread hijack:
I drained everything starting with the low point water lines.
Then I blew out the lines, (with between 20-30 psi) faucets, toilet and both showers.
Then I poured a quart of pink AF in the sink, toilet, and shower.
The pump seems empty of water and I see no water in the clear plastic strainer cover.


This is a 2021 with the tankless water heater and according to an AS tech the unit needs no special attention.


Did I miss anything?
Is pumping AF into the system via the winterizing kit necessary?

[Dennis C]

I don't pump pink antifreeze into my lines using the winterizing kit on my pump. I blow out all the lines at 50 psi, empty the water heater, pour pink antifreeze into my p-traps, empty my holding tanks, etc. I think the biggest potential issue is missing a water line (like the outdoor shower or the toilet fill). I've never had any issues. Make sure you know where all your low point drains are located (my trailer has them front and rear).