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09-12-2008, 08:57 PM
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#1
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3 Rivet Member
1974 29' Ambassador
1976 25' Caravanner
trenton
, Missouri
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 103
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Winterizing
While browsing through winterizing tips I notice many people simply drain and bypass the water heater. Is draining sufficient enough and is there any reason why you should not have antifreeze in the water heater? Thanks to all replies.
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09-12-2008, 09:03 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1968 28' Ambassador
Cedaredge
, Colorado
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,542
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If there is no water in it then I don't think you need antifreeze.. A tiny bit in the bottom isn't going to do anything except expand into the empty space of the water heater... Just make sure there is none in the lines.....
But on the other hand Better safe than sorry...
sorry not much help....
__________________
Jason
May you have at least one sunny day, and a soft chair to sit in..
2008 5.7 L V8 Sequoia
AIR # 31243
WBCCI # 6987
FOUR CORNERS UNIT
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09-12-2008, 10:25 PM
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#3
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Rivet Master
2006 25' Safari FB SE
St. Cloud
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,280
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I've set my valves incorrectly at times and the system attempted to fill the water heater. That takes a heckuva lot of antifreeze! Draining the water heater will leave a bit of water in the bottom. That tank is pretty tough to take the temperatures and potentially mild pressure spikes during regular operation. It will do just fine if a thin layer left in the bottom freezes.
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09-13-2008, 06:31 AM
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#4
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Rivet Master
2006 30' Classic S/O
Currently Looking...
Mohrsville
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,313
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bimpy
While browsing through winterizing tips I notice many people simply drain and bypass the water heater. Is draining sufficient enough and is there any reason why you should not have antifreeze in the water heater? Thanks to all replies.
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Bimpy,
Bypassing and draining the water heater tank is sufficient, antifreeze in the tank is not necessary. After draining, put the plug back in only a few turns. There is no need to tighten it. If you want it to drain a little faster, just open the pressure / temperature safety valve. Just remember to tighten it at the beginning of the next season.
__________________
Carl, Elaine & Finn The Beagle
2006 30' Classic W Slide & Limited Package Katarina
2006 GMC 2500 HD 6.6 Turbo Diesel Crew Cab 8' Bed
TAC PA-3
S/OS#042
AIR #14487
NQ3U (was KB3UOM)
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09-13-2008, 07:35 AM
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#5
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Rivet Master
1971 25' Tradewind
1993 34' Excella
Currently Looking...
Estancia
, New Mexico
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 7,743
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Water heater bypass & recyled antifreeze
Quote:
Originally Posted by bimpy
While browsing through winterizing tips I notice many people simply drain and bypass the water heater. Is draining sufficient enough and is there any reason why you should not have antifreeze in the water heater? Thanks to all replies.
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If you do not have a bypass installed already, it takes a little work to put one in. In the case of my 71 I did'nt because is was too tight to easily put in a bypass..
I don't see any reason why antifreeze from the water heater and lines can't be reused as long as it is not diluted. Thoughts?
__________________
Sail on silver girl. Sail on by. Your time has come to shine.
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09-13-2008, 07:41 AM
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#6
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Rivet Master
1960 28' Ambassador
Vintage Kin Owner
1998 25' Safari
Avonton
, Ontario
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,331
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bimpy
While browsing through winterizing tips I notice many people simply drain and bypass the water heater. Is draining sufficient enough and is there any reason why you should not have antifreeze in the water heater? Thanks to all replies.
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There is no need for the antifreeze to be in anything even the pipes. The antifreeze is used to displace the water in the system. Once it runs red you can then drain it out, as all the water has been removed. No need to have the lines full of antifreeze all winter.
Also if you are leaving it in all winter, put a small amount in a container and try to freeze it in your home freezer. Last year I had defective antifreeze that froze and pulled apart a copper line, so this year I will test it first and then drain it early.
__________________
Doug & Terry
VAC - TAC ON-1
60 Ambassador Int.
1950 Spartan
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09-13-2008, 08:38 AM
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#7
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Rivet Master
1972 27' Overlander
Longmont
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 951
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Hmm- I think I'll just drain all the water out (opening all faucets and drains, and tipping the trailer both ways) and skip the anti-freeze part. Will also try to plunge water out of the sink trap and make sure WH is drained. I had some residual water in the shower hose last winter, which froze and split it- so if your hose is sagging in a "U" shape, disconnect it and drain it! -tim
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09-13-2008, 04:46 PM
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#8
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Rivet Master
2006 30' Classic S/O
Currently Looking...
Mohrsville
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,313
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tphan
Hmm- I think I'll just drain all the water out (opening all faucets and drains, and tipping the trailer both ways) and skip the anti-freeze part. Will also try to plunge water out of the sink trap and make sure WH is drained. I had some residual water in the shower hose last winter, which froze and split it- so if your hose is sagging in a "U" shape, disconnect it and drain it! -tim
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Tphan,
I think skipping antifreeze is just looking for trouble. After draining the water you can ues one of these fittings (that attaches to the city water inlet) and an air compressor and blow the lines out.
But seeing where you live I woud still fill the system with antifreeze. To keep the sink and shower traps from freezing simply pour a cup or two of antifreeze down the drains.
__________________
Carl, Elaine & Finn The Beagle
2006 30' Classic W Slide & Limited Package Katarina
2006 GMC 2500 HD 6.6 Turbo Diesel Crew Cab 8' Bed
TAC PA-3
S/OS#042
AIR #14487
NQ3U (was KB3UOM)
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09-15-2008, 09:51 AM
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#9
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Rivet Master
1972 27' Overlander
Longmont
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 951
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DEITZ645
Tphan,
I think skipping antifreeze is just looking for trouble. After draining the water you can ues one of these fittings (that attaches to the city water inlet) and an air compressor and blow the lines out.
But seeing where you live I woud still fill the system with antifreeze. To keep the sink and shower traps from freezing simply pour a cup or two of antifreeze down the drains.
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I appreciate the suggestions, and have also read the entire thread "Winterizing tips", along with my Owners Manual, contents and warning labels of RV antifreeze, and this from Wikipedia: "Propylene glycol is " generally recognized as safe" by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) for use in food. However, propylene glycol-based antifreeze should not be considered safe for consumption. In the event of accidental ingestion, emergency medical services should be contacted immediately."
I'll stick with "Air" as a replacement for the water in my PEX lines, tanks, traps, filter, and pump, and leave the pink stuff on the shelf of Big Bob's RV Supercenter, right next to the Septic Solutions and other yummy beverages.
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09-23-2008, 12:10 PM
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#10
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Rivet Master
1976 31' Sovereign
ozark
, Missouri
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,040
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Not on mine!
I thought this was going to be a great deal when I bought it last year...The problem was my water inlet doesn't have threads! It's as smooth as a babies bottom inside. We have a 1976 31' Sovereign. I was trying to put it when the potable water goes..is that correct? Needless to say our lines froze and we are pexing the whole trailer. I'll figure somthing out this winter even if I have to hold a rag around it!
Quote:
Originally Posted by DEITZ645
Tphan,
I think skipping antifreeze is just looking for trouble. After draining the water you can ues one of these fittings (that attaches to the city water inlet) and an air compressor and blow the lines out.
But seeing where you live I woud still fill the system with antifreeze. To keep the sink and shower traps from freezing simply pour a cup or two of antifreeze down the drains.
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09-23-2008, 12:58 PM
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#11
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Antiquepedaler
2010 25' FB Flying Cloud
Currently Looking...
Laramie
, Wyoming
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 832
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For nine years, now, I drain the lines, drain and bypass the water tank, blow out the lines with compressed air and put a small amount of rv antifreeze down each drain. That's all AS Customer Service said they do in Ohio and my trailers have survived 9 Wyoming winters with no problems.
__________________
Antique Pedaler
2021 Caravel 20 FB
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09-23-2008, 01:00 PM
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#12
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3 Rivet Member
2015 25' FB Flying Cloud
Greensburg
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 76sovereign
I thought this was going to be a great deal when I bought it last year...The problem was my water inlet doesn't have threads! It's as smooth as a babies bottom inside. We have a 1976 31' Sovereign. I was trying to put it when the potable water goes..is that correct? Needless to say our lines froze and we are pexing the whole trailer. I'll figure somthing out this winter even if I have to hold a rag around it!
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The fitting in question is attached to the city water inlet.Air pressure should be between 40 and 60lbs.I believe it's best to keep toilet valve open.
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09-23-2008, 06:30 PM
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#13
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Rivet Master
1976 31' Sovereign
ozark
, Missouri
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,040
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MY BAD!....No wonder it didn't work! I guess I will buy another one for this winter and put it in the right place. That would help I suppose.
Thanks for the input...
Quote:
Originally Posted by pintoman
The fitting in question is attached to the city water inlet.Air pressure should be between 40 and 60lbs.I believe it's best to keep toilet valve open.
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09-23-2008, 08:59 PM
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#14
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4 Rivet Member
2007 25' Safari FB SE
North/East
, New Jersey
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 367
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tphan
Hmm- I think I'll just drain all the water out (opening all faucets and drains, and tipping the trailer both ways) and skip the anti-freeze part. Will also try to plunge water out of the sink trap and make sure WH is drained. I had some residual water in the shower hose last winter, which froze and split it- so if your hose is sagging in a "U" shape, disconnect it and drain it! -tim
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TPHAN.... If you drain the water out of the traps you will get odors coming into your trailer from your gray water tank. I would definitly put antifreeze into the sink and shower traps. I've been winterizing my sailboat for the past 24 years and alway put some antifreez in the water heater and have never had a problem. Its cheap insurance to drop 1/3 to 1/2 gal of antifreez in the water heater at $3.50 a gallon, rather than replace a water heater that froze up.
__________________
2007 Safari 25' FBSE LS
2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD Crew Cab 4WD Duramax
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10-11-2008, 07:56 PM
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#15
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4 Rivet Member
2007 25' Safari FB SE
North/East
, New Jersey
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 367
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bimpy
While browsing through winterizing tips I notice many people simply drain and bypass the water heater. Is draining sufficient enough and is there any reason why you should not have antifreeze in the water heater? Thanks to all replies.
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bimpy....
I just wanted to follow up on the winterization post. I winterized my trailer 2 days ago and drained the water heater down to the plastic plug at the bottom of the tank. I then put a plastic hose into the water heater plug hole and siphoned out what was still remaining in the tank. I was surprised how much water was still in the water heater tank that would surley freeze and possible damage the water heater if you did not make the effort to siphon it out or dilute it with antifreeze.
__________________
2007 Safari 25' FBSE LS
2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD Crew Cab 4WD Duramax
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10-12-2008, 05:25 AM
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#16
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Rivet Master
2014 25' Flying Cloud
Cuddebackville
, New York
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 4,346
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Antique Pedaler
For nine years, now, I drain the lines, drain and bypass the water tank, blow out the lines with compressed air and put a small amount of rv antifreeze down each drain. That's all AS Customer Service said they do in Ohio and my trailers have survived 9 Wyoming winters with no problems.
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It works for me too. And it avoids the need for hours of flushing the lines in the spring to get rid of the odor/taste of the antifreeze.
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10-12-2008, 10:11 AM
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#17
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Rivet Master
1972 27' Overlander
Longmont
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 951
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne&Sam
It works for me too. And it avoids the need for hours of flushing the lines in the spring to get rid of the odor/taste of the antifreeze.
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Exactly what I'm wanting to avoid. As far as getting odors from the drained and rinsed black tank through my kitchen sink drain trap, it is quite simple to screw in the drain plugs. I think simple is good, but that's just my philosophy on things.
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10-12-2008, 10:15 AM
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#18
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Antiquepedaler
2010 25' FB Flying Cloud
Currently Looking...
Laramie
, Wyoming
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 832
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2dabeach
bimpy....
I just wanted to follow up on the winterization post. I winterized my trailer 2 days ago and drained the water heater down to the plastic plug at the bottom of the tank. I then put a plastic hose into the water heater plug hole and siphoned out what was still remaining in the tank. I was surprised how much water was still in the water heater tank that would surley freeze and possible damage the water heater if you did not make the effort to siphon it out or dilute it with antifreeze.
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I asked Atwood about this quite awhile ago. They said what little water remains is normal and has plenty of room to expand when frozen and won't hurt anything.
__________________
Antique Pedaler
2021 Caravel 20 FB
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10-12-2008, 10:42 AM
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#19
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Tom, the Uber Disney Fan
2006 30' Safari
Orlando
, Florida
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 4,693
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I use the drain and blow-out method, but we have very mild winters here in Atlanta. I also, for the first time, climbed under neath the trailer and opened the pet-cock valves on the fresh water tank and drained it last winter. I opened the side drain valves on the hot water tank in addition to draining the hot water tank with the drain plug. I used my air compressor at 40 LBS to blow out all of the lines starting with each cold water and then each hot water faucet. I did the same with the toilet and shower. I added antifreeze to the drain traps in both sinks and shower drain. I also ran the pump on the fresh water tank while the air compressor was hooked up to make sure it had no water in it. And to add a belt to the suspenders, I left the furnace on the lowest setting.
So far, I haven't had any frozen pipes. This past winter was our coldest since I've had the Airstream and we did get down into the single digits for about three nights in a row a couple of times and this seems to have worked.
I don't go with the antifreeze in the water lines for a couple of reasons: number one, I am too lazy to un-do the winterizing; number two, we use our Airstream every month including November, December, January and February. It is just too much trouble to winterize and de-winterize on a monthly basis for one weekend trip each month.
__________________
2006 30' Safari - "Changes in Latitudes"
2008 F-250 Lariat Power Stroke Diesel Crew Cab SWB
Family of Disney Fanatics
WBCCI# 4821
https://streaminacrossamerica.com/
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10-12-2008, 04:51 PM
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#20
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2 Rivet Member
2008 16' International CCD
Cheyenne
, Wyoming
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Antique Pedaler
For nine years, now, I drain the lines, drain and bypass the water tank, blow out the lines with compressed air and put a small amount of rv antifreeze down each drain. That's all AS Customer Service said they do in Ohio and my trailers have survived 9 Wyoming winters with no problems.
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Thanks, living also in Wyoming going through my first winter with the AS parked outside this will make it that much easier to unwinterize come Feb when I take off for a month.
__________________
WyoRacer X
'08 16' Bambi International
living west of Cheyenne.
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