Winterize by blowing the lines

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by tvanwave

What capacity compressor is needed IE how many scfm? I'm looking for a compressor to do this type of work.

A 5 HP compressor with a 60 to 80 gallon tank works well.

Andy

[Aage]

Originally Posted by StreamRollin

Was wondering if anyone leaves a small amount of PS in the toilet bowl as to not dry out the rubber flapper in the bottom of the bowl?

I use a liquid made specifically for the purpose of keeping the flapper pliable. I think it's by Thetford.

Does a good job! Water or antifreeze will evpaorate, or at least, it does in our climate. Leave this fluid in in the fall, it's still there in the spring sitting on a nice pliable scraper valve.

[Jack46]

In my opinion the process used by TKOWALYK is the easiest. We live in a moderate climate region, but have never had a problem. I use the left over antifreeze to pour a bit into each drain and the toilet.

[JimGolden]

I came in on this in the middle and so this may have already been answered...but you don't want to run much over 40psi when you blow the lines out. I try to use what the water pump or city water generates.

I have a Sealand toilet, and discovered the hard way that just blowing the lines out doesn't get all the water out of the water inlet valve. That valve is about $40 and you won't find them at every RV shop. Thetford is more popular.... But the moral of the story is that I blow the lines out first with air, and then run RV antifreeze through the whole system. Unhook the input hose off the water pump and stick it in a jug of RV antifreeze.

I haven't made a water tank bypass so I have to be sure to run enough through the cold side to get red coming out of all the faucets and the toilet.

The red RV antifreeze I run into the toilet I basically put about a half gallon into the bowl and that will last the winter.

Anyway, best of luck and I hope you do better than I did my first winter....I wish you no frozen toilet valves

[Ag&Au]

Originally Posted by JimGolden

I came in on this in the middle and so this may have already been answered...but you don't want to run much over 40psi when you blow the lines out. I try to use what the water pump or city water generates.

..........................................

That sounds like it makes sense. However, my trailer manual says, "Apply at least 60 Lbs of air pressure" Therefore that is what I do.

I saw in another post where you said you are a engineer. Well, my degree is in Amospheric Sciences (Meteorology) and we are talking about AIR here.

Ken

[CeloNC]

I, too, have entered this discussion late and am wondering where to attach a blowout plug. Unfortunately, my plumbing has at least 2 low points and I am worried about being able to effectively drain the pipes. Also, I really don't want to put anti-freeze in the lines. Thanks. Bill

[Ag&Au]

Originally Posted by CeloNC

I, too, have entered this discussion late and am wondering where to attach a blowout plug. Unfortunately, my plumbing has at least 2 low points and I am worried about being able to effectively drain the pipes. Also, I really don't want to put anti-freeze in the lines. Thanks. Bill

The blowout plug attaches where your city water hose would normally attach. Two low point drains are normal one for hot and one for cold.

Ken

[Aage]

You also must have a drain for your fresh water tank, and I can tell you on my '74 Sov, there are two more low-point drains in the "trunk", on the far left side. The red handles are a dead giveaway.

[macofpei]

I winterized yesterday. I use the antifreeze and the water pump, I remembered to also flush the outside (shower ?) valve. From start to finish, excluding the time it takes the water heater to drain, it took about 15 mins. I also left the two ( gray and black) valves open and put the drain cover back on to keep the mice out.
I can now enjoy the winter knowing that next March, I will be able to get ready for summer again.

[polarlyse]

Did mine yesterday. I use the blowout method and have had good results. This is the first winter with this trailer. My older one did not have the low point drains but his one does. I put the RV antifreeze in the bowl and all the traps but I don't flood the system with it. I pull out the filter in the kitchen faucet and the house filter element that was installed by the PO. I will replace the filters when I re-assemble them. I did remove the plastic plug in the water heater and replaced it with a brass drain that I can open next time. My compartment did not have enough room to install the boiler drain I tried but I got one from camping world that's small enough to fit. So, all set for Ole Man winter. Bring it on.

[Minno]

My dad always blew the lines and never had any problems. The one year we tried it in an SOB trailer, we ended up replacing cracked fittings and the water pump the next spring. Now it's the pink stuff for us. We've also had problems with evaporation of antifreeze out of the toilet bowl over the winter, so now I wrap the bowl top with plastic cling wrap to keep evaporation to the minimum. Works well. I always use bleach followed by baking soda and a good rinse every spring for the fresh water system. No aftertaste.

Kay

[Gene]

Roger, you'll love that new brass plug for the water heater. It makes it so much simpler.

When I bought one at CW I had to guess which size to buy and lucked out. Best to bring the old plastic one with you.

My understanding is that a gallon of water always remains in the bottom of the water heater. If it freezes, it isn't a problem because there's plenty of expansion space, but silt does collect there. I've tried blowing it out and flushing with a hose, but maybe this year I'll try to siphon it after flushing with a hose.

Kay, I've never had an antifreeze aftertaste. Three flushes after treating with Clorox solves the problem.

Gene

[polarlyse]

I went through the plug size dilemma when I got the boiler valve to try. I of course tried the 3/4" first so I already had found out it was a 1/2" for the drain valve. I keep my trailer at my son's house so I'm in it frequently to check things out and renew the anti-freeze in the bowl as needed. We MAY take off for Fla sometime in February so I keep it plugged in so the batteries stay charged and ready to go whenever we are. Just have to move the snow out of the way.

[Ag&Au]

Originally Posted by polarlyse

I went through the plug size dilemma when I got the boiler valve to try. I of course tried the 3/4" first so I already had found out it was a 1/2" for the drain valve. I keep my trailer at my son's house so I'm in it frequently to check things out and renew the anti-freeze in the bowl as needed. We MAY take off for Fla sometime in February so I keep it plugged in so the batteries stay charged and ready to go whenever we are. Just have to move the snow out of the way.

I bought 2 of these **** things:

Camco 11703 1/2" RV Water Heater Drain Valve : Amazon.com : Automotive

I could not get the first one to stop leaking out the valve. This was with no pressure on the system. I figured I screwed it up some how, so I bought another. Same problem. Is there something else I might try? I've decided that I will just get an extra plastic plug for when I screw up the original one.

Ken

[Gene]

Ken,

It looks just like the one we have, but I guess they all look that way. Try plumbers' putty on the threads. Works better than teflon tape for leaks. Then tighten a lot, but stop before you destroy the threads and the trailer turns upside down.

Gene

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by CrawfordGene

Ken,

It looks just like the one we have, but I guess they all look that way. Try plumbers' putty on the threads. Works better than teflon tape for leaks. Then tighten a lot, but stop before you destroy the threads and the trailer turns upside down.

Gene

Ours....


Bob

[Ag&Au]

Originally Posted by CrawfordGene

Ken,

It looks just like the one we have, but I guess they all look that way. Try plumbers' putty on the threads. Works better than teflon tape for leaks. Then tighten a lot, but stop before you destroy the threads and the trailer turns upside down.

Gene

Mine sealed in the tank. The valve can't be turned hard enough to shut off the flow.
Ken

[Ag&Au]

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

Ours....


Bob

Bob,
Do you remember where you got yours?
Ken

[Gene]

Originally Posted by CrawfordGene

Ken,

It looks just like the one we have, but I guess they all look that way.

Now that I have looked more closely and seen Bob's, ours is not the same as Ken's. We have the Bob model. No problems with it.

Gene

[Denis4x4]

Looks like a radiator drain plug...try O'Reilly's or NAPA