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Old 04-15-2015, 07:34 AM   #41
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Channing,

thanks for keeping important things in the forefront:

There are rebar pins into the foundation about every 3'.

The gas meter will be boxed around about 2' x 2' and filled with pea gravel for future service needs. Gas line goes diagonally across the front yard, so only about 2' is under concrete.

no footer, but have spec'ed 5" concrete and extra rebar support on the front edge where I will be driving over.

The rather large ditch in the forefront of the last pic (rear of slab) is for a 4" buried downspout run that will go out to the right for 20+ feet. the downspout at the front corner has already been run across the front of the house, Y'ed into another and out into the front yard where I put in a french drain....buried of course. Slope of slap is 1/4" per foot away from the house.

The approach is EZ Roll permeable paver and sod will be re-laid on top and rolled down into the paver material. There is 4" of CA6 and 2" of compacted soil under that paver material on the approach.

Wire mesh will be in the concrete.....10ga, IIRC.

No other utilities, other than gas on that side of the house.

Thanks, for the thoughts.
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Old 04-15-2015, 07:59 AM   #42
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Concrete weld plate

Rich, in this pic you can see a concrete "weld plate"... At least that is what we
Call them.

The concrete contractor did not set this one properly and there was a huge void so when I welded my post to it, it moved. I cut out the slab and sis my own "reinforcing job" and poured repair myself.

Note the conduit.... Future use became immediate and glad I did it.
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Old 04-15-2015, 08:09 AM   #43
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Was that weld plate for posts for a roof? I can't do a roof, unfortunately. Village codes....

I didn't do a conduit, as my AS utility needs are on the house side and the same streetside of the AS. Can't do a clean-out port for black as it is in the basementabout half way through the house. If I ever need it, I guess I can use a macerator through the window.

Water and electric (30A) are already in place.

BTW, went out and looked, rebar pins are more like 2' apart.
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Old 04-16-2015, 07:06 AM   #44
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Day 5: Now we're getting somewhere. Won't that big broadside of the house look better with some silver jewelry???

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Old 04-16-2015, 07:53 PM   #45
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How did the cement truck get there without tearing up the yard?
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Old 04-16-2015, 08:12 PM   #46
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They used a "buggy".


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Another full day got the forms removed, pea gravel in the meter opening, and a lot of backfilling, sodding around the pad, and rolling the sod into the EZ Roll paver. I think it's done , except nursing the sod to full health.


Oh yeah, wrote the check!
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Old 04-16-2015, 08:22 PM   #47
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A powered wheel barrow... Smooth...
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Old 06-08-2015, 04:14 PM   #48
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Has anyone looked into buying a power pedestal? There are several sources on line but I wonder whether a Forum member has found an economical one for home use? I'm buying a new home with zero landscaping so I will have a parking area graded and was thinking of hooking up to the sewer and having a power pedestal. Here ins SW British Columbia we get a lot of rain in winter and I'd like to keep the power plug protected from the elements. We have ordered a 2016 Flying Cloud 25FB Twin and it has a June 19 build date.
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Old 06-08-2015, 04:22 PM   #49
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I ran my own...but attached to the rear house wall.

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Old 06-09-2015, 12:21 AM   #50
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Aha! I have one of those boxes on the rough in spot for a heat pump. Never thought it would do for an RV. Great! They even lock.
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Old 06-09-2015, 09:40 PM   #51
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Aha! I have one of those boxes on the rough in spot for a heat pump. Never thought it would do for an RV. Great! They even lock.
Be sure to wire it properly!!!!!!!
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Old 06-09-2015, 11:22 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post

If you had your pad to do over again, what would you change to make it better and more useable?
Level the area; provide drainage, and - due to the weather extremes - use crushed rock (1/2=3/4") for ground cover. The tendency for even well-packed with rebar / wire concrete panels to crack and heave ...would no longer be a consideration ... we already replaced two panels...
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Old 06-09-2015, 11:43 PM   #53
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Be sure to wire it properly!!!!!!!
I do all my wiring with a telephone. I call an electrician.
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Old 06-10-2015, 06:17 AM   #54
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Make sure the electrician knows it's 110!

Quote:
Originally Posted by gnijman View Post
I do all my wiring with a telephone. I call an electrician.
Stories pop up here all the time about Airstreams damaged by plugging into 220 volts mistakenly wired that way by electricians. Be sure your guy (or gal) knows what you need and confirm the voltage is right after the job is finished. It will save you and the electrician much trouble if it's wired correctly the first time and the damage never occurs.
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Old 06-10-2015, 07:24 AM   #55
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And even if they get the voltage correct they may get the polarity reversed. Check it carefully. Jim
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Old 06-10-2015, 09:34 AM   #56
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I do all my wiring with a telephone. I call an electrician.
Good technique!!!! Remember, tho, I had a couple electricians I had to "inform", not "teach" about RV wiring...

Also the old adage, "It works via smoke and mirrors... If you break the mirror or let the smoke out, it won't work properly!!!

I relearn that from time to time...
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Old 06-10-2015, 10:03 AM   #57
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Ok.. The "pad" question... I have 1/2" rebar plus wire in the slab. It cracked.. Of course, but is not coming apart...

Run plastic "electrical conduit" of about 2-1/2" diameter under the slab. Cap off. If I "need" it.. It is already there!

Slab must be level.. To a 1/8" drop per 5-10 feet... So that waster runs off without "pooling". Also have a "broom" finish so there are no "slips"... Run broom in direction of slope for water shedding.

If rain runoff likely, create curb on sides of slab high enough to deal with anticipated volume. Also dig more of a "footer" on those sides to minimize "undercut".

If able to place a gate on the approach, instal a vertical pipe(s) for gate pins socket. That way you can pin the gate closed. Add other pins in proper arc so you can latch open and wind won't slam gate into trailer as you pull out.

Put in "stop block" where rear tires always stop. If you have a dedicated location. On mine there are several locations I can park, so this is a moot point...

If you can install a "cover", put weld plates in the slab where you can attach at a later time. Or you can install one near the tongue where you can secure AS with a chain.

Round smooth the edges...a couple of stubbed toes will explain why...
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Old 06-10-2015, 10:27 AM   #58
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This information sharing is very helpful as we envision our future Airstream pad.
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