What would you do different if you were placing your concrete your pad again?

[KJRitchie]

Aren't you afraid of hail, living in Illinois, storing outside?

Kelvin

[dznf0g]

Of course, Kelvin, but it's outside now! We had been shopping for rural farmettes with barns for about 18 months. Very long story, short, we are staying where we are. Sizable hail is relatively rare (jinx). I've been in this house for 17 years and haven't had hail larger than pea sized....no roof damage in all that time....sooooo.......

[Protagonist]

Originally Posted by A W Warn

Don't be tempted to park on the slab until it cures to a high percentage of it's designed strength. I would wait a minimum of 2 weeks, or longer.

If using the slab quickly is necessary, then specify Type 3 concrete, also called High-Early-Strength Concrete. It cures more quickly and is usable in 7 days. Other types of concrete take about three weeks to cure sufficiently to use without risk of damage.

[Protagonist]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

We talked about "sealer" application after working the finish. Is that what you are talking about with "liquid plastic?

Hopefully AW Warn won't be upset if I answer for him. A sealer is a completely separate issue, and not really necessary unless you anticipate fluid spills other than water.

The curing membrane is to keep the concrete damp throughout the curing process. The moisture acts to allow the chemical reactions in the Portland cement to continue throughout the curing period. After the curing period is over (21 days for most mixtures, 7 days for Type 3) the curing membrane is removed.

[dznf0g]

Got it, Protag. No hurry to use it...I need to let the sod heal in before driving over the permeable paver anyway.

Answers to above:

Slope confirmed at 1/8" per foot, away from foundation. Pad pinned to foundation by rebar 4" into foundation.

Wire mesh , as Alan described, with rebar added to specific locations, including front edge of pad (only edge driven over or load close to)

Concrete will be air entrained, 4000psi, 5 inches thick, no fiber, extra thick at at front edge.

Once the excavation is done, the soil type may change the thickness of the CA6. The contractor works pretty exclusively in our community and predominantly finds hard packed clay at 4 - 5" or so. He'll be excavating to 8" minimum. May go deeper if he has to.

I can tell you, from planting trees and shrubs when we moved in, I don't have to worry about sandy, loamy soil very deep.

[A W Warn]

Originally Posted by Protagonist

Hopefully AW Warn won't be upset if I answer for him. A sealer is a completely separate issue, and not really necessary unless you anticipate fluid spills other than water.

The curing membrane is to keep the concrete damp throughout the curing process. The moisture acts to allow the chemical reactions in the Portland cement to continue throughout the curing period. After the curing period is over (21 days for most mixtures, 7 days for Type 3) the curing membrane is removed.

No problem, but there is a product called Kure n Seal that does both. (I like Kure N Seal WB). After the initial application for curing it can be re-coated for preventative maintenance (will help prevent staining/discoloration).

Re the comment about different gague reinforcing wire: 10ga x 10 ga is probably more prevalent in residential construction, which will be fine for application over compacted clay & stone base.

Air entrainment is about resisting internal forces created during freeze thaw cycles. I suggest using it whether salt is going to be applied or not. I always used it for all non structural exterior concrete; sidewalks, steps, porches, patios, curbs, paving, etc. It is a chemical admixture to the concrete, but should not affect cost more than a few $ at most.

[Idea]

We are new owners and have found temporary storage for our AS. Our plan is to build a simple shed and would like to know if you have a thread with more of your design suggestions. You have some great ideas that we had not considered.

[dznf0g]

woo hoo, it's time. The Village has released the flatwork permits and my contractor will be here 7AM Monday morning. I spent the day today cutting the sod which will be replaced over the permeable paver approach. Tomorrow my son will help me roll it and move it.

Finally I can get this project moving!

[dznf0g]

Day one

[1Boyscout]

Make a seam every 10 feet, to help prevent cracking.

[dznf0g]

Mine will be a bit Less than 10 X 8

[Sbb]

I made mine up against a barn on one side, a 2' wall on other, width is ok, but if given the chance I would make as wide as possible, very difficult to snow blow around in winter with amt of snow we have, and I like to keep the AS semi cleared out, d

[Dan and Liz]

i'm going with permeable paving grids and either gravel or recycled asphalt (see Boddingtons online for an idea of what I'm talking about.). Grass reinforcement mesh for tracks across lawn to parking pad. I figure to box it in, use the grids where needed to support tires, fill frame with one or the other of the above and the drainage will take care of itself. Lots cheaper than concrete. We'll see how it works out ...

[dznf0g]

Pad project day 2:

[cwf]

Great start!

[dznf0g]

Yeah, uuugggg, rained about an inch last night...one day delay...

Day 3 = nuttin'

Worried about my sod being rolled and stacked for 3 - 4 days.

[dznf0g]

Day 4:

[Arcticfox]

What a great thread. Interesting ideas by many and Rich your project is going to be a wonderful addition to your place. Well done!
Chers
Doug

[dznf0g]

Thanks, Doug. I'll still have a lot of work left after the muscle men leave. I'm sorta feeling my age.

[cwf]

Rich. yes, looks good.. can't tell from pic, but....questions:
- did you drill holes in the slab for rebar sticks to keep the slab from dropping or rising next to the house?
- Will the depth of cement impact the Gas supply valve exiting the ground? Do you plan to put a form around it so that there is no contact with the slab?
- Looks like a 'footer' was dug...? Or will you just end the slab at the foundation grade? If so, hope there is no water flowing around there...to possibly erode (unless you have a plan to handle that..
- will the approach be concrete?
- any reinforcement wire /rebar?
- no in ground utilities?