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curnes · 10-08-2017, 10:20 AM

I like to use compressed air to blow out my water lines in winter and have never had a problem with this strategy. I have a very small compressor, with a small air tank 1 gal. and it is a bit of a pain to get the line blown out without the air constantly running out of the tank. I wonder if anyone has an idea about the size of tank that might be needed to complete the job. I have a 2010 23ft Flying Cloud FB.
Thanks in advance for your thoughtful responses.
Cameron

paiceman · 10-08-2017, 10:31 AM

I use a two gallon, which I also carry with us while traveling. It goes up over 100# if needed, I use it to fill the truck tires at 80#.

It blows out the lines on our 30' Classic fine. Takes a while as I pressurize, open a facet, pressurize again and so on until nothing but air from all lines as well as low point drains.

Bud

Rich W · 10-08-2017, 11:31 AM

Same as Paiceman, but mine is a 3 gallon. I don't take it with us when we travel, because we have an SUV for a TV; limited on space. Also like Paiceman, pressurize the pump / flush // pressurize the pump / flush.... It takes a while but I'm retired, nothing better to do, and it gets the job done.

I carry a bicycle pump for the tires. Sometimes we come back late winter from the south. I just drain the lines (low point drain) and the hot water tank, then use the AS pump to push antifreeze into the lines. So far, no problems.

HiJoeSilver · 10-08-2017, 12:40 PM

Leave the water heater 'in service', gives an extra few gallons of air to blow out the lines.

Protagonist · 10-08-2017, 01:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by curnes

I wonder if anyone has an idea about the size of tank that might be needed to complete the job. I have a 2010 23ft Flying Cloud FB.

You can winterize with a tankless compressor, if it's done right, by keeping all valves and faucets closed, and using the plumbing itself as your pressure tank. Only after the plumbing system is pressurized would you open one valve or faucet and let the air (and residual water) out through the open valve. Repeat as often as necessary until you've gone round-robin through all of the valves and faucets.

Personally, I prefer to use a compressor with a 1½ gallon tank, with the tank pressurized to about 125psi, and the output pressure limited to somewhere between 45psi and 60 psi. Mainly because that's the size of pump/tank I already had, purchased at Kmart for less than $100. I didn't see any need to buy a larger pump or a pump with a larger tank just to winterize.

craftsman · 10-09-2017, 10:46 AM

The key to avoiding leaks and line damage is to keep the pressure to 60lbs.and below. Using anything above may damage your plumbing.

JCWDCW · 10-09-2017, 10:49 AM

I like HiJoeSilver's idea using the water heater to build reserve pressure
I use a 3 gallon ac but I have actually done the job with a 12 volt portable
Drain everything and use the water pump to push air though the taps them like everyone else build up pressure and blow out one tap at a time
How big would seem to depend on your patience.... but it is just one trailer, not a commercial venture
JCW

m.hony · 10-09-2017, 10:58 AM

I was using a 3 gallon maybe, but it was stolen.
Maybe now I'll get a 6 gallon.
The 3 gallon worked just fine, but wasn't enough for air tools.

KWN306 · 10-09-2017, 01:13 PM

I use to use a tank of Co2 to winterize. I made an adapter to fit from the Co2 bottle to the city water and blew it out.

Why Co2 you ask...........it will pick up the water and push it out the faucets whereas compressed air will not.

I lost my adapter and have since just used RV anti-freeze being sucked it in at the water pump while putting the H/W Htr in bypass.

YippieKiYa · 10-09-2017, 03:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KWN306

I use to use a tank of Co2 to winterize. I made an adapter to fit from the Co2 bottle to the city water and blew it out.

Why Co2 you ask...........it will pick up the water and push it out the faucets whereas compressed air will not.

I lost my adapter and have since just used RV anti-freeze being sucked it in at the water pump while putting the H/W Htr in bypass.

Are you using a regulator on the tank, or are you opening all of the internal valves and letting it blow? The pressure at the valve of a CO2 tank is enough to destroy the lines in an Airstream if the valves are closed and the system is exposed to full tank pressure.

That said, I think your comment is to get enough airflow through the system to carry the water out, which is the goal of winterizing with air. Flow is key to success.

KWN306 · 10-10-2017, 07:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YippieKiYa

Are you using a regulator on the tank, or are you opening all of the internal valves and letting it blow? The pressure at the valve of a CO2 tank is enough to destroy the lines in an Airstream if the valves are closed and the system is exposed to full tank pressure.

That said, I think your comment is to get enough airflow through the system to carry the water out, which is the goal of winterizing with air. Flow is key to success.

Yup a regulator set at 25 to 30 psi. Since 1974 I've never had a frozen line. Now I am to old to wrestle a big Co2 tank so I just use RV anti freeze and flush the system with Clorox and water in the spring.

bbandeddie · 10-29-2017, 02:09 PM

I was curious about this and also wondered if I could use my tire inflator pump as an emergency on-the-road winteriser so today we used it to pressurize the water lines and blow out the water one valve at a time. Seemed to work well. As a double check, and as it's our first time winterizing I then loaded antifreeze afterwards as a precaution. No water came through before pink. So the tire inflator successfully pushed all the water out.

SailorSam205 · 10-29-2017, 02:17 PM

I use my Viair tankless. After the initial round where I just let it run with various open valves I close everything for a few seconds to let pressure build a bit. I have a 2 gallon pressure tank in the system, so I'm not worried about pressure getting too high during the short time everything is closed. Pressure tank is nice when not on city water - keeps the pump from cycling, especially at night. I can get a few toilet flushes before the pump kicks on.

Moflash · 10-29-2017, 06:01 PM

I use a Stanley combination jump box/ air compressor bought at Sam’s Club.I set it at 40psi that way I can let the pressure built until it shuts off automatically then I open each faucet (I do this alone)I repeat until no water is expelled and move on.Once complete I fill system with antifreeze.7 years now with no issues.

carl2591 · 11-19-2017, 06:15 PM

so i did the blow out the lines thing last year and I take the water pump out and store inside..

SO this year I drained WH tank, opened all the faucets and opened low point drain, opened the water tank valve, poured some AF in the p-traps and think I will call it done..

not sure how the blowing out the lines is more effective than letting everything drain out and leaving the faucets open.. if any water is in lines it not much and what causes problem if water in a closed system with not place to expand as needed.. guess i find out next spring "_)

Moflash · 11-19-2017, 06:45 PM

I also open the faucets,low point grain and water tank valve prior to blowing out the lines.You would be amazed how much water remains in the lines and would surely freeze solid.

SailorSam205 · 11-20-2017, 05:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Moflash

I also open the faucets,low point grain and water tank valve prior to blowing out the lines.You would be amazed how much water remains in the lines and would surely freeze solid.

X2. Makes sure there is little water in the various faucet valves which I think are the most susceptible to damage.

devilsbox · 12-07-2017, 07:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SailorSam205

I use my Viair tankless. After the initial round where I just let it run with various open valves I close everything for a few seconds to let pressure build a bit. I have a 2 gallon pressure tank in the system, so I'm not worried about pressure getting too high during the short time everything is closed. Pressure tank is nice when not on city water - keeps the pump from cycling, especially at night. I can get a few toilet flushes before the pump kicks on.

I was thinking about using my Viair portable compressor to do this. Using a quick connect at the city hose connection but was afraid the pressure would be too much for the plumbing.

Larry

Adventure.AS · 12-07-2017, 07:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by devilsbox

I was thinking about using my Viair portable compressor to do this. Using a quick connect at the city hose connection but was afraid the pressure would be too much for the plumbing.

Larry

My VIAIR 450 has a pressure gauge so it is easy to pressurize the lines to 40 psi, open one tap at a time and the-pressurize the lines again before opening the next tap.

carl2591 · 12-08-2017, 06:02 AM

got a quick question on blowing out lines..

If you open the low point drains, open faucets and drain water out of line how is that different or why is air pressure better?? freezing water causes issues when in a confined space not allow to expand as water does when it freezes.

Seems to me is you get 99% of water out of system, remove water pump, leave faucets open, low point drains open, water heater drain open, the effect of freezing expanding water is eliminated..

is that not true. ??