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Old 09-20-2023, 11:09 PM   #1
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2018 23' Flying Cloud
Park City , Utah
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Unexpected cold snap, not winterized yet. Help!

We just moved from Utah to Oregon. Most of our stuff—including the air compressor—is in storage and not accessible. Our trailer is stored in an outdoor facility. I thought I'd have another couple of weeks before I needed to winterize, but the latest weather forecast is predicting a dip to 32F early Fri AM.

It will likely only be an hour or two at that temperature, but I'm concerned that might be enough to freeze the pipes. I suppose I could go to Home Depot and get another compressor and try to fully winterize tomorrow afternoon.

What would you do?

It's supposed to warm up again a bit after tomorrow night, with lows in the low 40s for the next 10-14 days. So, it's really just tomorrow night that is the concern/threat.
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Old 09-21-2023, 04:42 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by switters View Post
We just moved from Utah to Oregon. Most of our stuff—including the air compressor—is in storage and not accessible. Our trailer is stored in an outdoor facility. I thought I'd have another couple of weeks before I needed to winterize, but the latest weather forecast is predicting a dip to 32F early Fri AM.

It will likely only be an hour or two at that temperature, but I'm concerned that might be enough to freeze the pipes. I suppose I could go to Home Depot and get another compressor and try to fully winterize tomorrow afternoon.

What would you do?

It's supposed to warm up again a bit after tomorrow night, with lows in the low 40s for the next 10-14 days. So, it's really just tomorrow night that is the concern/threat.
I would not worry for just a couple of hours at 32. It would have to be below 32 for 4hr+ for me to get concerned.
My 2 cents…
Ron
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Old 09-21-2023, 05:40 AM   #3
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If you're really worried, drain the hot water heater, fresh water tank, open the low point drains, disconnect the outside shower hose and let it drain. That should give you good protection until you can prepare for the much colder temps to come. 32° F will freeze water but it's still pretty mild and it will take much longer than a few hours to freeze water inside the trailer at that temp.
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Old 09-21-2023, 06:58 AM   #4
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Phew! Thank you.

Since I'm going to winterize soon anyhow, I think I will follow tbrowne's suggestion to drain the hot water heater, fresh water tank, open the low point trains, and drain the outside shower (the hose is already disconnected).
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Old 09-21-2023, 08:23 AM   #5
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If the daytime temps are still warm, you have a good margin of safety.


A bounce to lows in the upper 20's at night is no problem if the the highs are in the 60s.


It takes some time to cold soak the inside of the rig to the point of a hard freeze.



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Old 09-21-2023, 08:30 AM   #6
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That's good to know. Big temp variations right now. It's supposed to be 32F tomorrow morning at 7, but the high in the afternoon is 70! Then for the next 10 days, highs in the 60s and lows in the 40s. So it sounds like I should be fine.
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Old 09-21-2023, 08:58 AM   #7
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We plug an electric heater in if we have water in the camper. Just in case.
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Old 09-21-2023, 09:00 AM   #8
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We plug an electric heater in if we have water in the camper. Just in case.
Couldn't I just turn on the furnace overnight? I've got LP and solar.
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Old 09-21-2023, 09:13 AM   #9
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Couldn't I just turn on the furnace overnight? I've got LP and solar.
Yes, that's the way to go as the furnace routes air underneath where the plumbing runs. An electric space heater isn't going to do anything to keep the pipes in the belly warm.
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Old 09-21-2023, 10:39 AM   #10
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I live in Portland and I never worry about it unless we get 2 or 3 days of 30 degrees and not warming during the day. Never had a problem with freezing.
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Old 09-21-2023, 10:43 AM   #11
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get a quart electric heater for inside
let the water run a bit with the outsides grey drain open.

running water is VREY hard to freeze. when its still it can easily freeze.
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Old 09-21-2023, 10:50 AM   #12
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Couldn't I just turn on the furnace overnight? I've got LP and solar.
x2 on using the furnace - we also leave water heater on overnight in freezing temps (to avoid having to drain it) - and don't use the electric space heater at all - it will confuse the thermostat & shut down the furnace.

We've made it through many nights in the 20's using furnace set to about 45 degrees F - this is when we're traveling shortly. Otherwise pink stuff everywhere!
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Old 09-21-2023, 11:15 AM   #13
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Where are you in OR? The Willamette valley will only get to the low 50’s in the next week. Bend in the low 40s. Ashland and S Oregon won’t be a problem either.

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Old 09-21-2023, 11:17 AM   #14
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I’m here in Ridgefield, WA about 15 miles north of Portland. Not that cold here yet. 41 degrees this morning. You will want to winterize, but you should be ok for now. After you drain your fresh water tank and water heater, open the low-point valve to drain the water lines, then turn on your water pump and open each faucet, shower head, and toilet to let the pump push as much water out of the water lines as possible. Then, blow the water lines clear of any remaining water. If you can’t blow the lines clear immediately, do it as soon as you can. Then, drain your black and gray tanks. After draining the holding tanks, add some Thetford Drain Valve Lubricant to your black and gray water tanks. This will help keep the seals from sticking on your dump valves. Once this is done, pour some RV antifreeze down the drains for all your sinks to help keep the P-traps from freezing.
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Old 09-21-2023, 11:50 AM   #15
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Quote:
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We plug an electric heater in if we have water in the camper. Just in case.
Quote:
Originally Posted by waninae39 View Post
get a quart electric heater for inside
let the water run a bit with the outsides grey drain open.

running water is VREY hard to freeze. when its still it can easily freeze.
Electric heat inside the trailer will do little to nothing to protect the tank and its plumbing.

If you're in a cold snap and don't have a compressor, you can still winterize the old-fashioned way using the pink RV antifreeze. All you need is a few gallons and enough juice to run the pump for a little while. Takes about 30 minutes once the tanks and system are drained.
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Old 09-21-2023, 11:59 AM   #16
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Water does not freeze until 28 deg because of its latent heat. It will remain frozen until temperature is over 32.

You should be fine with no action.
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Old 09-21-2023, 12:32 PM   #17
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Some interesting notes from the link below:

https://www.nickelblock.com/wx-info-...s-will-freeze/

"If the temperature around a 3/4″ pipe – with no insulation – is 20 degrees, it will take about three hours for the water to begin to freeze. It takes, roughly, another three hours for the water to fully freeze within pipe blocking the flow of water. Lab tests showed that it took another three hours for the pipe to burst."

"Keep in mind, that some homes have 1/2″ pipe. And since 1/2″ pipe holds half as much water as a 3/4″ pipe, the freezing time is – roughly – half as long."

So, it would probably need to stay at 20 degrees for 4.5 hours before you'd be in trouble. And PEX should give you a little extra margin as it insulates slightly better than bare copper and also has some flex.

If you really want to dig in, the full test is detailed here:

https://www.ideals.illinois.edu/items/54859
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Old 09-21-2023, 01:24 PM   #18
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Water does not freeze until 28 deg because of its latent heat. It will remain frozen until temperature is over 32.

You should be fine with no action.
Water freezes when the temperature of it reaches 32 degrees. That is also the temperature at which it is least dense (biggest) IIRC. As ice gets colder density increases (the ice shrinks). This is why it doesn't make a difference if your unwinterized trailer sits in continuous 30*F for a week or 0*F for a week. Damage will be the same. But as others have said, the loss of residual heat will take more time with the outside temp at 30*F rather than 0*F. Wind accelerates the loss of residual heat.

Oddly, water is at its most dense at something like 36*F.

And yes, you will be fine with no action.
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Old 09-21-2023, 02:36 PM   #19
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Oregon Airstream Club

Are you a member of Airstream Club? The Oregon unit has a large population, maybe there is someone local to you. If you're on Facebook, look up Oregon Airstream Club. Just a thought.
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Old 09-22-2023, 08:42 AM   #20
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My AS manual mentions closing the hot water mixing valve as part of the process but is unclear about sequence. I recommend doing so before blowing compressed air through the system. Last year I left the valve open to allow compressed air to purge water from hot water system (after draining it) and ended up getting very fine particles lodged in the upstream mixing valve screen. Cleaning out the screen the next spring was a royal P-I-T-A.
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