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Old 10-17-2022, 11:46 AM   #21
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2006 25' Safari FB SE
Spokane , Washington
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farafield, Yep, that is the idea. When draining the HW tank all the water is out of there. Turn the valves to the bypass position and then blow the lines and the water at the valves is blown out. Again, been doing this since 2009 and it gets plenty cold up in Eastern Washington.
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Old 10-18-2022, 06:50 AM   #22
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Madison , Alabama
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Just wanted to say thanks to everyone that responded with recommendations. I ran through the process over the weekend. Took about an hour and a half going slow. I could probably knock it out in 45 minutes or so next time.

Everything seemed to go pretty well. The only thing unexpected was when I went to run the water pump to try and clear it out. A significant amount of water came out of my kitchen faucet when I opened it with the water pump on. Even though I drained the fresh water tank until it stopped dripping, I guess it wasn't as empty as I thought it was. It had a pretty steady flow from the faucet for around a minute and then another 5 minutes of intermittent spurting of water/air.

I guess I'll know how successful I was in the spring . . .
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Old 10-18-2022, 09:22 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyler2you View Post
Just wanted to say thanks to everyone that responded with recommendations. I ran through the process over the weekend. Took about an hour and a half going slow. I could probably knock it out in 45 minutes or so next time.



Everything seemed to go pretty well. The only thing unexpected was when I went to run the water pump to try and clear it out. A significant amount of water came out of my kitchen faucet when I opened it with the water pump on. Even though I drained the fresh water tank until it stopped dripping, I guess it wasn't as empty as I thought it was. It had a pretty steady flow from the faucet for around a minute and then another 5 minutes of intermittent spurting of water/air.



I guess I'll know how successful I was in the spring . . .
I remove the input and output sides of the pump and burp it a few times with a towel under it to clear the pump. This is after clearing all the lines with air.
Given that after clearing your lines you then pulled water all the way to the kitchen faucet, I would blow the lines again.
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Old 10-18-2022, 09:35 AM   #24
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farafield, Yep, that is the idea. When draining the HW tank all the water is out of there. Turn the valves to the bypass position and then blow the lines and the water at the valves is blown out. Again, been doing this since 2009 and it gets plenty cold up in Eastern Washington.
Thanks! The reason I asked is because I put mine on bypass before blowing air!
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Old 10-18-2022, 10:11 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by pcskier View Post
I remove the input and output sides of the pump and burp it a few times with a towel under it to clear the pump. This is after clearing all the lines with air.
Given that after clearing your lines you then pulled water all the way to the kitchen faucet, I would blow the lines again.
Unfortunately, I don't see an easy way to access the pump on my trailer (without some freakishly long arms or removing some panels).

I did run through the process of blowing out at each faucet/toilet/showers/low points again after running the pump and there was a little more water that came out.
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Old 10-18-2022, 01:12 PM   #26
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KW , Ontario
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Originally Posted by Tyler2you View Post
Unfortunately, I don't see an easy way to access the pump on my trailer (without some freakishly long arms or removing some panels).



I did run through the process of blowing out at each faucet/toilet/showers/low points again after running the pump and there was a little more water that came out.
That's always the danger of not using AF. Some water can remain. I'm glad someone posted about the HW bypass. That is a common place water remains. I had it blow off the pipes on the fittings one year as I forgot. No big deal as I was able to just recrimp a new clamp onto the fitting. But had it blown off somewhere else where I didn't have access it would have gotten expensive. This year I put the AF in and then blew it out again.

I leave all the faucets open as well as any other valves including the tanks. Cover the AC unit. Then its just a matter of keeping the snow off the panels so the batteries don't get discharged. But they can go a few months without doing anything to them. It just depends on the snow load which I never know at the start of winter, so I try to keep up with it. Come March it doesn't matter so much anymore as warmer weather will roll in soon enough. The other spot to pay attention to is the sprayer for the toilet. It can freeze if water was left. Or just disconnect and drain it out manually.
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Old 10-18-2022, 08:11 PM   #27
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After running through the process once, I think I will move step 11 (turn on water pump) to come after step 3. That way I get the remaining water out of the fresh tank and pump before I start blowing the lines.
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Old 10-18-2022, 09:29 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Tyler2you View Post
After running through the process once, I think I will move step 11 (turn on water pump) to come after step 3. That way I get the remaining water out of the fresh tank and pump before I start blowing the lines.


Don’t forget to blow out your spray hose on your kitchen sink too
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Old 10-19-2022, 09:06 AM   #29
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East Lansing , Michigan
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Unfortunately, I don't see an easy way to access the pump on my trailer (without some freakishly long arms or removing some panels).

I did run through the process of blowing out at each faucet/toilet/showers/low points again after running the pump and there was a little more water that came out.
I wonder if you could attach an additional hose to your water pump inlet line, with one end attached to your pump via a T connector and the other end extended to a point where you can easily access it for adding antifreeze?

The theory is to keep the access point closed so the water system works as usual, but then you use that added port to draw in the antifreeze without having to reach in an access the pump. Just a thought, but don't know if it would work, or work for your situation!
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Old 10-19-2022, 11:42 AM   #30
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I think you have everything covered. To tell you the truth, I have never blown air through my piping. 5 winters no problems.

Here is a link with a lot of good information.
https://www.airforums.com/forums/f44...ml#post2438849
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Old 10-22-2022, 10:18 PM   #31
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Hanover , Pennsylvania
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyler2you View Post
Unfortunately, I don't see an easy way to access the pump on my trailer (without some freakishly long arms or removing some panels).

I did run through the process of blowing out at each faucet/toilet/showers/low points again after running the pump and there was a little more water that came out.
On our 2022 25 fbt GT there is a soft suction line and valve that can be reached just before the pump through the hinged panel with the heat vent under the closet door beside the fridge. Just pull on the panel and it open with the heat vent still attached. Reach back to the pump and you should feel the loose end of the hose. Pull the hose out and then feel for the valve to open. Place hose in the gallon of AF and turn pump on and AF will flow through the faucets when opened. Access to the pump is also easier by removing the small door below the fridge, removing left door side backing and then the screws from the back panel of that compartment. I added magnet strips on the back side and a small pull handle on the front of the back panel for ease of access to the pump. Also allows you to see the bypass valve for better operation and the pump.
A bit of a PITA the first time but so easy after the access is made.
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Old 10-23-2022, 05:53 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by Last Mango View Post
On our 2022 25 fbt GT there is a soft suction line and valve that can be reached just before the pump through the hinged panel with the heat vent under the closet door beside the fridge.
On my trailer, I could reach in far enough to touch the valve, but getting enough leverage to turn it wasn't happening. Maybe your arms are longer. The suction hose was also coiled up and caught on something so that I couldn't get it loose. I ended up spending 20 minutes or so fighting to get the access panel under the fridge loose. I finally got it in just the right orientation that it came out with some pushing from the back.

After that, I decided I didn't want to go through that again so I cut a door in the panel and put it back. It's not perfect, but it's functional.
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Old 10-24-2022, 10:04 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by Tyler2you View Post
On my trailer, I could reach in far enough to touch the valve, but getting enough leverage to turn it wasn't happening. Maybe your arms are longer. The suction hose was also coiled up and caught on something so that I couldn't get it loose. I ended up spending 20 minutes or so fighting to get the access panel under the fridge loose. I finally got it in just the right orientation that it came out with some pushing from the back.

After that, I decided I didn't want to go through that again so I cut a door in the panel and put it back. It's not perfect, but it's functional.
Looks good and helps access where the pump is located. Awful location for the pump if ever needed to replace anyway IMHO. I also added a 14x14 in plastic valve access door for drywall in the hanging compartment front left floor to help with a pump replacement when needed. We had a pump die on us in Newfoundland with SOB and access was a nightmare as well as finding a pump, so we are now prepared, spare pump and all. LOL
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Old 11-11-2022, 01:15 PM   #34
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Tyler:

Where are the low point drains located? I am getting ready for my first winterization and cannot find any straight forward location for the low point drains. Thanks
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Old 11-11-2022, 07:18 PM   #35
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Tyler:

Where are the low point drains located? I am getting ready for my first winterization and cannot find any straight forward location for the low point drains. Thanks
They're on the street side between the wheels.
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Old 01-12-2023, 03:06 PM   #36
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I'm going to highjack this thread with a couple questions. We recently acquired our first ever Airstream - 27' International. It literally arrived right after our first winter storm, so it was bonus that the dealer already winterized it for us. It's currently safely parked (outside) at my mom's (Indiana), sheltered from some elements, but not all. My two questions are related to the AC covers and the battery. Is it safe to put weight on top of the Airstream? My brother is going to be the one who gets up there to put the AC covers on. He probably weighs 175 pounds. We are nervous about how to get up there to do this. (Rookies we are!) Regarding the battery removal. My brother wondered if there was anything that we should do before removing the batteries so that it wouldn't short-out a circuit. Might not be a thing to worry about, but thought it was worth asking. I should include that our intent is to store them inside the garage through the winter months. Finally, a third question. We currently have it parked on gravel with the tires sheltered by a board. I've read some people remove the tires. Some don't. Would appreciate thoughts on this.
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Old 01-12-2023, 04:13 PM   #37
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Is it safe to put weight on top of the Airstream?

My brother wondered if there was anything that we should do before removing the batteries so that it wouldn't short-out a circuit. M

We currently have it parked on gravel with the tires sheltered by a board. I've read some people remove the tires. Some don't. Would appreciate thoughts on this.
It is safe to get on the roof as long as you make sure you stay on the ribs. Just walk where you see rivets and you'll be good.

Push the disconnect button and just take normal precautions with the batteries. Don't let a disconnected cable come in contact with a ground point or let a wrench bridge a circuit.

I wouldn't worry about removing tires if you're just storing it over the winter months.
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Old 01-13-2023, 01:09 AM   #38
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Thank you so much! Appreciate the response here.
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Old 01-13-2023, 07:24 AM   #39
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Snip quote><><><>I've read some people remove the tires. Some don't. Would appreciate thoughts on this.

YEP....for 17 yrs & the axles lasted 15 & 3rd set of tires.
Also use drain tiles during the season.

Bob
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