Need DeWinterizing Step by Step

[rpenczek]

I filled the fresh tank and made sure the drain was closed.
Turned on pump, it started running.
Turned off bypass on hot water header, could hear heater filling as pump ran
Opened cold on vanity, slow stream, then closed.
Opened hot on vanity, air then slow stream, then closed
Opened sink cold slow stream, then closed.
Opened sink hot, lots of air, then good stream, the slow.
Good pressure from toilet.
Pump ran quite a while.
No no stream from either sink but good flow in toilet.

Am just not waiting long enough with faucets open?

Am I doing something wrong?

(looked inside and outside trailer, no leaks.)

[OTRA15]

If you don't have city water, and are only using the pump for this, you should probably open just one faucet at a time. After you get good water flow from each faucet, you can go back and double check that all the air is out of the system.

If there is a problem with a particular faucet, remove the grit filter at the end of the faucet. Sometimes particulate matter gets caught there. You may also have to find the filter which is between the water tank and the pump. There is often crud trapped there too. Check your owner's manual for the location of the pump, as this varies by year and model. The filter is usually right next to the pump.

To avoid particles coming from the tank water, you should always use an inline filter in the hose when you fill the tank, like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-40043-T...+filter+inline

This filter should also be used for the city water hose.

Good luck!

Peter

[rpenczek]

Also have good pressure from the galley spray handle, but not the main faucet. Shower is trickle.

[rpenczek]

Outside water valve has good flow as well.

[OTRA15]

Good flow in one place, and not in others, means most likely that debris is clogging things up. You have to disassemble the shower spray head and look for a filter. Ditto for the galley spigot -- at the end you should be able to unscrew the filter/aerator, but be sure not to drop the parts, or get them out of order when you reassemble.

[rpenczek]

Got it on the lavatory sink. That is working now. Just can't find one in the galley and shower (that is clogged. Ty for your help everyone.

[rpenczek]

I got it all working except the shower. The lavatory sink and kitchen faucet were clogged up with what appeared to be calcium. It was gravel like and I'm betting when the lines were blown out last year, the deposits were broken loose.

For the kitchen faucet, I had to take the entire valve body apart to get the "gravel" out of the diverter.

Thanks for the feedback.

[OTRA15]

Thanks for the update, glad you are making progress!

Have you also checked the filter between the water tank and the pump? The debris could be coming from the water tank, and if so the filter near the pump will probably have some grit in it. As noted earlier, an inline water filter is recommended every time you use a hose either for city water or to fill the tank. For example:

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-40043-T...e+water+filter

Good luck!

Peter

[rpenczek]

Sure did check that filter, it was clean. Ty

[dkdouglas]

So this coming weekend we are taking the AS out for our first trip! Brought it home and started going over everything:
AC - both units cool check
AC - both Heat pumps heat check
LP heater works
All lights are fine and dimmers work
Radio and TVs work. Haven't check the DVD yet but will.
That was evening one.

Today I washed and cleaned. Wow that is not like washing a car!!! There is a lot of surface area to wash and dry!

Started following everyone's great checklists on de-winterizing and filled up the fresh water tank. Noticed I had a leak but it finally stopped. All drain valves were closed. Started to clean out the lines of all the pink stuff but had limited pressure. Hooked up to city water, ran cold and hot lines till clear water at all outlets, filled hot water heater and checked I was getting heat from both LP and electric. Going fine so far. There was still low pressure when I took it off city water and the pump kept running forever. So I am checking for leaks....nope. Hmmm..... Now it is time to open up and check the pump for loose fittings etc. First chore was find where the pump was located and how to get to it. Love a good mystery. What do I find? One of the heater duct hoses is squished between the gas line and the outside faucet lines!!! OK Got that all disconnected and feed back around the gas line and reconnected fine. On to the pump, and I find one of the fittings had come loose from the fresh water tank. That would explain the pressure issue and why I only had leaks when I was filing up the tank. Once that fitting was back on and tight, I have pressure, the pump shuts off as designed and all is right with the world.

The past two days have had strong winds and powerful gusts, but today is perfect. Read up on past threads about towing with gusting winds and I am set. Tomorrow it is off to Cotopaxi KOA on the Arkansas River outside of Salida for the shake down cruise.

Thanks to everyone who helps make this forum great! This is making my life easier and fun.

Later,
Don

[Dan and Liz]

Wheel bearing lube? Brake disconnect switch?

[SteveSueMac]

We just did our dewinterizing weekend. God I love camping!!! 🤣

Editing a few replies (esp TG Twinkie) and including a new step to replace remote batteries (meaning - a new part of winterizing is to remove batteries from remote controls for TVs and such) here's our revised list with thanks to those who posted early on:


Dewinterize Procedure

DO NOT ADDRESS WATER HEATER BYPASS UNTIL STEP 14

HAVE 3 oz OF BLEACH FOR STEP 4

HAVE 15/16 SOCKET FOR WH PLUG STEP 2


1. reinstall batteries (see pics in Battery file on phone - note - I took pics from curbside to remember the connections - starting camping season is a POSITIVE thing so connect POSITIVE cables first. For winterizing - it's a NEGATIVE thing to be done with camping so disconnect the NEGATIVE first).
2. reassemble items left loose for winter: exterior shower heads, hoses/filter at pump, REPLACE WATER HEATER DRAIN PLUG - replace batteries in remote controls...
3. close all faucets, shower valves, low-point drains, etc
4. Connect water filter and hose to water source - ensure charcoal runs clear out of filter. PUT 3 oz OF BLEACH IN FRESH TANK then fill the FRESH water tank after making sure you have closed the tank drain valve. SHUT OFF WATER SOURCE WHEN FW TANK IS FULL.
5. START WATER PUMP and be sure it stops. If it doesn't, a drain may be open or you may have a leak. If all good, open the galley sink faucets and start the flow of water. You should see the pink antifreeze running out of the faucet. Hot water side and cold water side should be opened one at a time. Leave the pump running until clear water is running.
6. Close the galley sink faucets.
7. Open the vanity faucets, wait for clear water to run. Close the faucets.
8. Open the shower faucets, wait for clear water.
9. Flush the toilet until you get clear water.
10. (Optional - clear outdoor shower faucet - can be done at time of first use)
11. Turn the pump off.
12. Connect the hose to the city water connection and open the spigot at the pedestal.
13. Turn on the city water. Then repeat steps 5-9 (only from city water, not pump).
14. At this point the water heater should still be in the "bypass" mode from winterized process. You need to take it out of that bypass mode. The manual in your coach should have instructions on how this is done. When you take the water heater out of "bypass" with the city water still on. You should hear water running into the water heater tank. LET IT FILL BEFORE CONTINUING.
15. Open the hot water faucet on the shower, galley and vanity sinks one at a time. Allow the water to run until there is no air coming out of the faucets.
16. DO NOT START THE WATER HEATER IN EITHER THE GAS OR ELECTRIC MODE UNTIL YOU ARE SURE THE WATER HEATER IS FULL OF WATER.

TROUBLESHOOTING:

Whomever winterized the coach may have opened the low point drain valves. If you are unsuccessful with the above steps. Look under the coach for water running out. If water is running out. You must locate the low point drain valves and close them. If the pump continues to run when all sink and shower valves are closed. A low point drain valve(s) may be open or you have a leak somewhere. Start looking.
- [ ]

[greghoro]

Originally Posted by SteveSueMac

Editing a few replies (esp TG Twinkie) and including a new step to replace remote batteries (meaning - a new part of winterizing is to remove batteries from remote controls for TVs and such)

Rather then removing the batteries from your remotes, etc., use a slip of paper approx 2" long by 1/4" wide that you place between one of the batteries and the battery contact, letting one end of the paper hang out of the battery compartment when you close the cover. That way, you keep the batteries with the device and prevent the batteries from being drained and potentially leaking. Don't worry about the cold affecting alkaline batteries, it will actually prolong its life, although just slightly.

A variation of the way some manufacturers protect batteries from being drained that are pre-installed into new devices. Usually there is a tab hanging out and one pulls out a clear plastic protective strip which prevents the batteries from touching the contacts until the consumer wans to start using the device.


Greg H

[SteveSueMac]

Good tip Greg! Thanks!

[Darby Mc]

I just wrote a comment, and it disappeared, or so I think. This might be a repeat, but here goes... I purchased last November a 2017 Flying Cloud Bambi. I'm a single gal trying to do this Airstream/camping thing come hell or high water. No water in my situation is the problem. I think I've dewinterized, nothing is coming out the low point outside drains anymore. After reading your posts I probably shouldn't have tried to do that I can see. Lots of good suggestions by the way, and for the most part I followed many of them. Here's the problem. I positioned 6 valves (Airstream says I positioned them correctly for "use"). The valves are a) next to the hot water beneath the dinette seat a yellow valve (open), and a black valve (closed); under the galley sink a chrome valve just above the water filter on the white pipe, and another valve on the red pipe - both pipes run down into the outside storage locker. In the outside storage locker there are two valves, one on the white pipe and one on the red pipe - both are closed. I've filled the fresh water tank to 100%. When I turn on the pump there is only a trickle of water coming out of the galley faucet. At the same time when the pump is on water is pouring out of the red pipe outside, beneath the trailer, and this is directly beneath the hot water tank. I sent pictures of all aforementioned pipes/valves to Airstream, and they tell me all are in the correct position. They also tell me there is a missing valve somewhere, but don't know where. ??? Airstream thought I might have something broken with the hot water heater and gave me some businesses to call that can service it under warranty. In talking with one fella over the phone, he thinks it could be either a broken valve, or a valve somewhere was not put in at the factory. Nonetheless, I'm hoping to resolve this myself before my trip on Sunday. HELP!

[SteveSueMac]

Could you post some pictures here? Sounds like you have an open low point drain outside on the belly of the trailer. I don't have a Bambi so not sure where all the drains are but post some pics here and I'm sure you'll get some help.

[Darby Mc]

2017 FC Bambie
Good idea SteveSueMac about downloading some pictures. I have 7 pictures and they are loaded under my blog name (Darby Mc) "7 images". I can't figure out how to post them into this comment. But clicking on that will bring up the pictures. I just discovered the possible missing valve, which is behind the toilet, on a white line. Ah HA! me thinks. I closed the valve so it runs across the white line. Will it make a difference? Turned the pump on, and water continues to pour out of the red low point drain underneath the trailer. I am so frustrated. I loved all the above tips on how to dewinterize, and have printed them off for future reference. Just wish I had found them before I started this project. At any rate, I need HELP! Anyone???????? Pleezzzzzzzzzz!

[Darby Mc]

Yippee! I have an answer. The hidden valve in question (not the one behind the toilet - yes I reopened it) is under the front of the hot water tank. I've been back and forth with Airstream - Mike Varno went out to the plant and found a 20 footer, and found the valve. It's gotten at with difficulty, but I finally managed to close it across the line. When I turned the pump on - no water came out of the underneath low point red water line!! The plumbing pressurized, and now there is a strong steady stream of water coming out of all faucets and the toilet flushes fine. So that's the story. Now I can get at the rest of my chores to get ready to hit the road. Zippity Doo Dah!

[SteveSueMac]

Congrats! Sorry I couldn't have been of more help but good on Mike for figuring that out and helping you through it! Happy camping now!!

[SUP'n Woman]

Originally Posted by overlander63

Step 1: Connect city water supply to city water inlet.
Step 2: Turn on the water.
Step 3: Open hot and cold faucets, and let the water run until it is clear (no link).
Step 4: Turn yellow bypass valve on water heater inlet so water enters water heater.
Step 5: Run hot water until air clears, and water comes out.
Step 6: Enjoy another camping season.

Does this work on all years of airstreams? I have a 2021 Bambi. Thanks in advance!