Mattress Moisture Problem?

[ventport]

Glad you solved the problem. Brian

[A W Warn]

Palmer51,

I'm wondering, have you been running the furnace when you had these moisture problems, or have you been using a space heater or heat pump just heating the interior space? Would this have happen if some warm air would have been circulating in the pan and storage compartments when the furnace was running?

The reason I'm asking: We are getting ready to head south after Christmas, for the winter. Before we leave, I'm thinking about adding a sheet of foam insulation under the bed. We use an electric space heater a lot, but I have never noticed condensation under the mattress (never checked) on any of the four Airstreams I have owned. I will be checking now.

Thanks for sharing!

[palmer51]

(I'm wondering, have you been running the furnace when you had these moisture problems, or have you been using a space heater or heat pump just heating the interior space? Would this have happen if some warm air would have been circulating in the pan and storage compartments when the furnace was running?)

A W Warn,

Good question! We try to run the heat pump as much as possible when we are hooked up to shore power to save on propane, but we always opt for using the furnace when the temperature plummets below 40 degrees. The furnace vent in the bedroom is located off the front/left lower wall under the shower (as your looking forward from the bedroom). Therefore, the heat would be circulating well under the bed storage compartment, but not in the rear cargo compartment. The moisture under the mattress was collecting on the plywood on the left side (where my wife and I spoon, haha) over the cargo compartment. We have a electric parabolic dish heater that we use sometimes but never in the evening when we go to bed.

My wife and I discussed other options. Cutting holes in the plywood over the bed storage compartment close to where the rear cargo compartment but decided not, WARRANTY ISSUE and possible wet clothes. Insulating the rear cargo compartment, a lot of work, and also the issue of the hole, plywood break, when you raise the mattress, WARRANTY ISSUE. Ultimately, it always came down to WARRANTY ISSUE and why doesn't the EXPERTS AT AIRSTREAM get back in touch with us about this problem with a good solution.

Thanks for your question, I hope this helps.

palmer51

[aluminauts]

After we saw this post http://www.airforums.com/forums/f293...ady-15283.html
we added a breathing layer between the plywood and the mattresses. This was a plastic sheet of about 1/2 inch cups on a solid plastic base. The raised cups have slit on 4 sides so they let air pass under and thru the raised cups. The surface looks a little like small tulips across the entire surface of the sheet.
We have had no condensation problems with this "breathing" layer under the twin mattresses.

[Silver Goose]

Originally Posted by palmer51

... We try to run the heat pump as much as possible when we are hooked up to shore power to save on propane, but we always opt for using the furnace when the temperature plummets below 40 degrees. ...

It's good to hear that you found a simple solution to the problem and it is especially heartening to hear you have pretty much ruled out the likelihood of an elusive water leak.

Your setup sounds similar to mine. Check the owners guide for the CCC. Both the 5-button and CCC2 support the Aux Heat Mode where the CCC will automatically switch from Heat Pump to Furnace when the outside temp drops below freezing and will switch back when the outside temperature rises.

This will reduce your need for propane further and you don't have to do anything except leave the CCC in Heat Pump mode. Be aware that below 40 degrees, the H/P will periodically go through a defrost cycle. You will hear the compressor running, but the blower stops for about 4 minutes. The 1st time you hear that you may think something is wrong, but it's normal.

[perryg114]

Below 40 degrees especially if the humidity is high you might as well use the furnance. The efficiency of the heat pump goes south about there and what little you save is wasted in the defrost cycle were the system actually starts cooling to defrost the outer coils. The heater strips come on to counter the effect.

Perry

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by Silver Goose

It's good to hear that you found a simple solution to the problem and it is especially heartening to hear you have pretty much ruled out the likelihood of an elusive water leak.

Your setup sounds similar to mine. Check the owners guide for the CCC. Both the 5-button and CCC2 support the Aux Heat Mode where the CCC will automatically switch from Heat Pump to Furnace when the outside temp drops below freezing and will switch back when the outside temperature rises.

This will reduce your need for propane further and you don't have to do anything except leave the CCC in Heat Pump mode. Be aware that below 40 degrees, the H/P will periodically go through a defrost cycle. You will hear the compressor running, but the blower stops for about 4 minutes. The 1st time you hear that you may think something is wrong, but it's normal.

However, be aware that if you disconnect your batteries (I think at the post only...I believe there is a live keep alive circuit if you use the disconnect switch) you will need to reprogram this feature upon reconnecting the batteries.

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by perryg114

Below 40 degrees especially if the humidity is high you might as well use the furnance. The efficiency of the heat pump goes south about there and what little you save is wasted in the defrost cycle were the system actually starts cooling to defrost the outer coils. The heater strips come on to counter the effect.

Perry

Propane = my wallet

Heat pump = campground fee already paid (most locations)

[Silver Goose]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

However, be aware that if you disconnect your batteries (I think at the post only...I believe there is a live keep alive circuit if you use the disconnect switch) you will need to reprogram this feature upon reconnecting the batteries.

This may be model dependent. I have the 5-button CCC. The programming on mine was done by some DIP switches and jumper on the board in the ceiling unit. I've had the batteries out and the power off when I replaced the Parallax unit and auto switchover to furnace still worked afterwards.

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by Silver Goose

This may be model dependent. I have the 5-button CCC. The programming on mine was done by some DIP switches and jumper on the board in the ceiling unit. I've had the batteries out and the power off when I replaced the Parallax unit and auto switchover to furnace still worked afterwards.

Hmmm. mine is also a 5 button, but my manual even spells it out (in very small print). I'll have to look it up again.

[dznf0g]

OK, I have a five button, but apparently all 5 buttons are not created equally.
Mine is part #3109228.001 The manual does not mention dip switches at all, but discusses auto switchover. HOWEVER IT DOES NOT STATE HOW TO PROGRAM IT.

I had forgotten my information came from forum member Lewster, here:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f427...ion-71069.html

I have a hand written note on Lewster's post #3 which says anytime battery is disconnected OR STORE SWITCH is switched of, I must reprogram.

I must have experimented with this last spring. Sounds like maybe there was a change in the 2008 CCCs???? It would be nice not to have to mess with reprogramming!

[Silver Goose]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

OK, I have a five button, but apparently all 5 buttons are not created equally... anytime battery is disconnected OR STORE SWITCH is switched of, I must reprogram.... Sounds like maybe there was a change in the 2008 CCCs???? It would be nice not to have to mess with reprogramming!

That definitely sounds like a design in need of a change. Apparently Dometic stepped up to the plate and made a revision.

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by Silver Goose

That definitely sounds like a design in need of a change. Apparently Dometic stepped up to the plate and made a revision.

Are you sure? I think the dip switches in the overhead unit: 1) just activate the signal to the CCC that the minimum temperature has been met and 2) make the CCC recognize the furnace option is available.

I believe in order for the CCC to take that dip switch information and ACTUALLY perform the switchover, the CCC must be programmed per Lewster's info.

Some of my theory is reading between the lines in several of Lewster's diagnosis threads. Maybe he'll chime in.

[Silver Goose]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

Are you sure? I think the dip switches in the overhead unit: 1) just activate the signal to the CCC that the minimum temperature has been met and 2) make the CCC recognize the furnace option is available.
...

I think we're zeroing in on this. The "programming" is done at installation by the DIP switches jumpers and plugging on the control board in the ceiling unit. That tells the system exactly what combination of hardware is installed. There is firmware somewhere (maybe in the CCC or in the control board) that controls what is displayed on the CCC and how the various functions operate. The procedure Lewster outlined in his post is a hard reset, similar to rebooting a PC to reload a fresh copy of the firmware. I've had to do it, but for a different reason. As I recall the fan started to run continuously regardless of settings. The reset fixed it. They may have changed the firmware at some point, but I've not had the experience of losing the Aux Heat function after a total power disconnect.

[lewster]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

Are you sure? I think the dip switches in the overhead unit: 1) just activate the signal to the CCC that the minimum temperature has been met and 2) make the CCC recognize the furnace option is available.

I believe in order for the CCC to take that dip switch information and ACTUALLY perform the switchover, the CCC must be programmed per Lewster's info.

Some of my theory is reading between the lines in several of Lewster's diagnosis threads. Maybe he'll chime in.

Correct! The dip switches tell the CCC what features you have and want to activate (things like furnace, auto generator start or which A/C unit this is; the latter features are normally used on motor homes with integrated generators or multiple A/C units) and the CCC must be re-set every time the dip switches are changed or the DC power is removed from the CCC. It tends to forget what it was told (sort of like most of us as we get on in years!!!)

Anyway, when the furnace option is activated on the relay board via the dip switches of a Duotherm heat pump, the relay board reads the outside ambient temperature via a remote temp sensor located on the upper A/C unit and will tell the relay board to switch from heat pump to furnace when the outside temps drop below the normal operating range of the heat pump.

At least that how Dometic says it should work. YMMV!!!!!

[Fly at Night]

Had the same problem. I rectified mine by going to a self-storage place and buying flattened cardboard boxes. The cardboard is a good insulator and easy to work with as I can adjust the layers between the plywood and mattress. Also makes that notorious hard mattress a bit softer.

The underside covering of my mattress also had some black spots. I put my finger through one to see if there was any mold in the foam. The foam was clean. I also bleached the plywood. It came up clean and does not smell.

When the weather is better I'm going to haul my mattress outside and cut the blemished underside covering off. I suppose I could demand a new mattress since I'm still under warranty, but I'm not. The foam is not compromised. So, I can live with it.

[masseyfarm]

For mold stains on a cushion I had in the pick-up, I left it in the sun, vacuumed it, sprayed it with bleach, dried it again and revacuumed it.
That worked for me.

Dave

[QUOTE=Fly at Night;1230413
When the weather is better I'm going to haul my mattress outside and cut the blemished underside covering off..[/QUOTE]

[dznf0g]

I decided to run a 200W "personal heater in the under bed storage compartment. Now there is not enough of a temp difference between the compartment and the bedroom to condense moisture under the mattress. (dehumidifier helps as well).

[palmtreegirl]

I read about this problem but did not have it in my trailer - yet. When I remodeled the bed (made it bigger), I put a sheet of 1/2" blue styro insulation between the mattress and plywood. I pieced it around and duct taped it - haven't had any problems......haven't camped much yet either......I think it's going to work great though.

[Dwellstream]

We are rookies so this is probably something I should know. Why is the storage compartment open at the top in the first place? Does this have a practical application? I have been in the construction business for over forty years and know a little about insulation and vapor barriers, so this makes no sense.