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Old 11-01-2021, 01:08 PM   #1
2020 Globetrotter 25 FBT
 
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Wildwood , Missouri
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Just using a compressor do I need to bypass water heater?

Winterizing and having a Sr moment. I’ve alway switched the bypassed valve for the water heater. I’ve started the process today, and was getting ready to turn that valve. The valve itself is under the curb side twin bed on a 25FB twin. I doubt being a GT makes any difference. The valve is pretty difficult to work with. Just a small hole under the mattress, and then buried beneath a lot of pipes and wires, is the hard to see valve. Just got me thinking, why am I doing this? I’m not adding RV antifreeze (except drains).
Necessary to bypass?
Thanks
Jeff
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Old 11-01-2021, 02:23 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by GettinAway View Post
Winterizing and having a Sr moment. I’ve alway switched the bypassed valve for the water heater. I’ve started the process today, and was getting ready to turn that valve. The valve itself is under the curb side twin bed on a 25FB twin. I doubt being a GT makes any difference. The valve is pretty difficult to work with. Just a small hole under the mattress, and then buried beneath a lot of pipes and wires, is the hard to see valve. Just got me thinking, why am I doing this? I’m not adding RV antifreeze (except drains).
Necessary to bypass?
Thanks
Jeff
No AF, I assume you are blowing the lines. By closing the valve the tank can be drained separately. If left open you'll be blowing thru the tank.
I use the pressure relief valve to blow the tank out after bypassing it.

Bob
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Old 11-01-2021, 04:00 PM   #3
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I use just an air compressor and do not close the bypass, I have a brass petcock where the white threaded nut is so I open that when there is pressure in the water lines and let it open until just moisture is coming out. This has worked for 11 years down to -20 F and I have had no problems.



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Old 11-01-2021, 06:21 PM   #4
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Before making my MacGyver adaptor I also just drained the tank, but still used the bypass valve.
I've always blown the lines.

Bob
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Old 11-01-2021, 08:15 PM   #5
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I run my compressor with the water heater drain plug removed for a few minutes. It always pushes out a bit more water than just draining it alone.
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Old 11-01-2021, 08:57 PM   #6
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Thanks all. I’ll continue tomorrow. So far I’ve just opened all faucets, low water drains, fresh water tank, and the water heater plug. I’ll start blowing them out tomorrow.
As of right now, I think I’ll leave the water bypass off, or not bypassing the water heater.
I just cant see a reason to do it.
Thx
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Old 11-01-2021, 09:55 PM   #7
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Don’t forget to disconnect the water line from the outlet of your water pump and run it for a bit to clear any water in the pump or the line from the fresh tank. I use a towel to catch the water that comes out. It should be about a cup of water.

I agree with your thoughts on the water heater bypass. I don’t do it either.
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Old 11-02-2021, 06:48 AM   #8
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Thanks Dennis. I’ve run the pump several times during the process, and “hopefully” I have enough water removed. I still can’t get the panel under the fridge out of there. Which means I really have no access to the pump. I left the water line hooked to the pump last winter, and only used the compressor to clear lines. No RV antifreeze. No damage to lines or pump, and we had some very cold nights.
I did bypass the water heater, but I’m not going to this year. It’s 31 out there right now.
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Old 11-02-2021, 06:51 AM   #9
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Every method is OK, until it isn't.
“I don't make mistakes, I make faulty executions.”
RLC

Bob
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Old 11-02-2021, 09:58 AM   #10
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When I winterize even after the tank is drained I blow air through the systems with the bypass valves in their normal position. Then I turn the valves in the bypass position and continue to blow out the lines. It's important to remember that you need to make sure the pipes in operational and bypass positions are blown out. You don't want to trap any water in the piping. Water may remain in the pipes that bypass the water heater if the bypass piping isn't blown out too, and to blow them out you have to change the valves to the bypass position to blow those sections of the water line.

I'm headed out to the garage where I store my Classic today. It's going down below freezing Thursday night so it's time to winterize for me.

Jack
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Old 11-02-2021, 10:21 AM   #11
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Water Heater Flush and Winterization

I use a Camco 11691 Water Heater Tank Rinser ($11.49 at Amazon) to flush the tank through the drain--remove the white plastic plug and spray around inside. It's pretty effective.

The manual for my Atwood GE9EXT states: "...the approximately two quarts of water remaining in the tank after draining will not cause damage to the tank should freezing occur." Regardless, I syphon it out.

Instructions for the blowout method I use are attached.
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Old 11-02-2021, 10:35 AM   #12
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I did not use the bypass last year and next time I used the water heater the junk the air stirred up clogged the outlet screen. I have since seen someone recommend using a water cleaning wand after using air on the water tank.
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Old 11-02-2021, 10:39 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Castaway View Post
I use just an air compressor and do not close the bypass, I have a brass petcock where the white threaded nut is so I open that when there is pressure in the water lines and let it open until just moisture is coming out. This has worked for 11 years down to -20 F and I have had no problems.



Gary
Ditto. This is exactly what I do too. I leave the hot water bypass valve open and I leave the hot water tank drain and pressure relief valve open while I’m blowing the water lines clear.
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Old 11-02-2021, 10:43 AM   #14
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Don't forget to blow out the outside shower.
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Old 11-02-2021, 10:51 AM   #15
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When I blow out everything and water seems to stop coming out of the hot water heater, I start rocking the trailer. Surprisingly a good bit of water comes out .
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Old 11-02-2021, 11:59 AM   #16
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Hi neighbor, picked up new puppy yesterday so just noticed your post. I presume blowing the lines today....burritos starting tonight. i did mine last week getting the rig ready for some minor repairs at 3r rv this a.m.

Quite frankly, i just noticed when rereading the manual that protocol is to isolate. I have always drained and flushed the wh added the drain plug and closing the tprv, then connected the compressor. Actually did the pump purge first as i am draining the fw tank. That way i can attach a section of hose tp the pump supply an manually blow back water to the hopefully empty fw tank.

It dies take longer to get the dry pipes with out isolating, but i let it run until dry. Pumping the lp drains with a finger seems to speed getting the moisture out to the end .
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Old 11-02-2021, 12:55 PM   #17
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On my 2010 Flying Cloud 25FBT the heater is under the curbside bunk and the by pass valve(s) can be easily accessed from outside storage compartment
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Old 11-02-2021, 04:12 PM   #18
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I don't purge the pump since I disconnect the inlet line coming into the pump. That's where I make my connection with the hose coming from my antifreeze bottle. I put in the antifreeze in after I've blown out the lines via the pump and the last outlets opened are the hot and cold low water drain lines which on my trailer are between the tandem curbside wheels. Interesting to see that that small amount left in the filter and pump shows itself as I open up each outlet to see the pink coming out. It takes about a gallon to take care of two sinks, the sink sprayer, the shower, and then the toilet and it's attached sprayer. I blew out the outside faucet but didn't get much of anything out of it. I don't use it and I leave it shut off from the inside valve. I do open that inside valve however when I blow out the line to get any water out that is in the pipe leading to that inside valve.

Jack

Took about 2 hours today to get every thing blown out, drained and then filled with antifreeze. I buy a second gallon and use that on the traps. I'm generous in filling the traps. Then I open the blackwater and grey water valves to drain anything in those tanks that accumulates in the blow out and antifreeze process. Pulled the batteries out and all the liquids, soaps, windex, etc out too. So it's all put to bed for the season. Even though it will get to freezing tonight, it's interesting that an insulated garage with a concrete floor still holds a lot of residual heat. Unless the garage doors are left open for a long time, it really doesn't get down to freezing until we have some prolonged cold weather which means late November or December.
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Old 11-02-2021, 04:18 PM   #19
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Quote:
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Every method is OK, until it isn't.
“I don't make mistakes, I make faulty executions.”
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Bob
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I only use AF in the traps...12yrs...SFSG

Bob
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Old 11-04-2021, 07:25 AM   #20
2020 Globetrotter 25 FBT
 
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I ended up bypassing the water heater.. I just kept thinking maybe water got in those bypass lines. Although I’m not sure how it ever would. Our cold front has passed no freezing nights for the next 2 weeks. At least I’m ready.
Thanks all for the replies.
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