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Nomad, 2nd · 10-23-2013, 10:02 PM

Unfortunately I can't leave my property in the ozarks quite yet.
(it's saposto get down to 31 tomorrow night)

I'm not worried about that tomorrow night as I'll keep the catalytic heater going to keep myself warm.

But.... I'm off the grid. No water, and no power except hauling and solar/geny.

So... It's going to be hard to use compressed air to blow the lines... (I've got a 12 volt air compressor, but don't think that will work.)

I need to stay here a couple more weeks. I can deal with camping dry, (although it will suck not to have the toilet at night) just don't want broken lines.
And unfortunately I can't haul it out to go somewhere local to winterize it at the moment.

Suggestions?

Just drain the tanks and run antifreeze through and then drain the pump? Or...?

Nomad, 2nd · 10-23-2013, 11:16 PM

I think the answer is to buy a compressor and run it off the geny.

Money spent will be better than dealing with broken pipes.

Now I just need to connect reality with the horribly general owners manual.

Dean E · 10-23-2013, 11:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nomadic1

I think the answer is to buy a compressor and run it off the geny.

Money spent will be better than dealing with broken pipes.

Now I just need to connect reality with the horribly general owners manual.

Borrow, rent, or buy a compressor--but make sure that the compressor doesn't pull more current in the cold than the generator can supply. Starting a cold compressor takes a huge amount of amps--more amps than the compressor draws while operating.

Lara Me · 10-23-2013, 11:26 PM

Or rent or borrow, if that is an option. As reference, having just bought a compressor, your purchase amount would vary between $60 for a cheap harbor freight unit, to $140 for a Porter Cable 6 gallon pancake kit on Amazon to around $300 for a Rolair or Makita unit (plus another 50 for the kit and hose if not included). The camco adapter to hook up the hose to trailer is about $7.

Howard L. · 10-24-2013, 12:29 AM

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-36543-Pu.../dp/B0006JJ588.

Won't help now, but buy this for next time.

m.hony · 10-24-2013, 03:48 AM

I used a bicycle pump last winter. It is a lot of work, but it will git-r-dun.
I would try that 12 volt compressor out of curiosity. I aired up a flat with a 12 volt compressor. It took an hour, but it got the job done.

ROBERT CROSS · 10-24-2013, 06:04 AM

A roll of duct tape and a shop-vac.

Tape a section of garden hose to the exhaust side, ours came with an adapter, (it's on the top of our Genie) and blow away, empty & clean the vac first.

Bob

kswelsh · 10-24-2013, 06:07 AM

This cold spell is not welcome

reinergirl · 10-24-2013, 06:12 AM

Air pigs are inexpensive and can be filled at your local gas station. They are just a tank of compressed air used for filling tires, inflatables ....

handn · 10-24-2013, 06:32 AM

If it is merely getting a few degrees below freezing at night and warming up to the 40's and 50's in the day, your pipes will not freeze. It takes a cold snap where temps are in the 20's for 15 or so hours to freeze things up. If you are living in the unit, it will take a longer cold snap to freeze things up as you are supplying heat.

perryg114 · 10-24-2013, 06:43 AM

I would get one of these. It won't help you right now but it will help in the future. This has enough power to blow out the lines. Just make sure you don't leave the faucets closed because this guy will over pressure the line but you could put a regulator on the output of it. If the temps are not going to get much below 30 overnight then you don't need to worry, especially if the trailer is heated at night. Open doors to under the sink areas so heat can get in.

Q Industries MV50 SuperFlow High-Volume 12-Volt Air Compressor : Amazon.com : Automotive

Perry

Wingeezer · 10-24-2013, 07:07 AM

It should be no problem to forget about blowing the lines and just use your 12v pump to fill the lines with antifreeze - it drives out the water of course as you pump it in. Just pump until it runs pink at all your taps and ensure you have some in the traps.

Should easily do it with two gallon size containers of antifreeze if you bypass and drain your HW heater.

As well, I think this approach is more guaranteed to do the job than simply plowing the lines, especially if you don't use a decent sized compressor.

Many people only blow the lines with perfect success - but there is always a chance of a small amount of residual water in the lines pooling and freezing. I think this would be more likely to happen the smaller compressor you use.

Brian.

Minno · 10-24-2013, 08:01 AM

We've done antifreeze only for years with no problems.

Kay

RangerJay · 10-24-2013, 09:21 AM

Your trailer is a 3-season trailer that is designed to withstand frosty nights during the shoulder-seasons for short periods of time. Obviously your heat needs to be on - but you can give yourself an added degree of security by opening your cabinet doors at night, turning off the water and opening the taps, then ensuring there is a supply of moving air throughout the trailer (the furnace or a small fan will do). If you are worried about exposed drain pipes a couple of straw bales will allow you to keep them insulated from the direct cold.

If the daytime temperatures remain below freezing and you feel it is time to bite the bullet and get the trailer winterized then RV anti-freeze is as simple and effective as you can get.

Good luck,

Jay

Moflash · 10-24-2013, 09:43 AM

I use a 12 volt portable jump box with compressor, works just fine let a little pressure build up and open faucets one at a time

John&Vicki · 10-24-2013, 09:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Howard L.

Camco 36543 RV Pump Converter Winterizing Kit : Amazon.com : Automotive.

Won't help now, but buy this for next time.

I spoke with the knowledgeable owner of a large RV shop here in Central Oregon and this is what he uses. I went in to buy an adapter for the compressed air approach and he went over the pro's and con's of the two methods with me. He said that he uses his rig all winter here - we can get sub-zero temperatures - and winterizes 5-10 times a year. Says he uses this device, never uses compressed air, and that it takes him less than 10 minutes to winterize. Parks outside and has never had a problem in 10+ years.

Poppy

Moflash · 10-24-2013, 10:43 AM

I do both blow out water lines with air and fill lines with antifreeze.... takes 15 extra mins

pmclemore · 10-24-2013, 10:45 AM

I use the antifreeze approach.

I also agree that when you are facing barely freezing temperatures, you should not worry too much.

Pat

Nomad, 2nd · 10-24-2013, 11:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nomadic1

Unfortunately I can't leave my property in the ozarks quite yet.
(it's saposto get down to 31 tomorrow night)

I'm not worried about that tomorrow night as I'll keep the catalytic heater going to keep myself warm.

But.... I'm off the grid. No water, and no power except hauling and solar/geny.

So... It's going to be hard to use compressed air to blow the lines... (I've got a 12 volt air compressor, but don't think that will work.)

I need to stay here a couple more weeks. I can deal with camping dry, (although it will suck not to have the toilet at night) just don't want broken lines.
And unfortunately I can't haul it out to go somewhere local to winterize it at the moment.

Suggestions?

Just drain the tanks and run antifreeze through and then drain the pump? Or...?

Quote:

Originally Posted by pmclemore

I use the antifreeze approach.

I also agree that when you are facing barely freezing temperatures, you should not worry too much.

Pat

Thank you.

I'm just paranoid about hurting my baby.

I wish the manual was a little more specific, and user friendly...
I thought the furnace was The AC/heater from reading the manual.
(needing 3500 watts)
From an earlier post in this thread I saw the bit about running the furnace... And ran it for a few minutes. (also found the bit about it running the batteries down in a couple nights, and the furnace heating the pipes/tanks))

So tonight Ill run it on 60 (I've got a good sleeping bag and can deal for the couple more weeks I need to be up here)

And hook it to the geny tomorrow night if the solar doesn't bring it back during the day.

I just REALLY don't want to be disassembling my home to get to pipes!

RangerJay · 10-24-2013, 03:49 PM

Just to add a little bit of food for thought for you.

We have done a fair bit of late fall camping (it is our favourite time of year) in sites without electricity where overnight temperatures will dip below freezing. The furnace is a battery killer - and this needs to be managed around - our trailer is small (a Bambi) with a single battery.

Our normal routine under these circumstances is to go into "energy conservation mode" which simply means we don't waste any battery power - we try to time the activities that might have a larger draw on the battery to take place when the generator is running. When we go to bed I work to have the battery showing a voltage of 12.6 or higher.

Overnight we turn the furnace down low as you are suggesting and throw on an extra blanket (my job to get up first - turn the furnace up - and get the coffee going). After one nights draw on a frosty night the morning voltage check will rarely show battery voltage of 12.2 or less (once the coffee is on my next job is to fire up the generator).

If I can run the generator every day the usual minimum times are an hour in the morning and an hour in the evening to keep the battery topped up. I've found that when I can't meet that minimum generator time (i.e. weather or schedule) the battery will give me a 2nd night - but I wouldn't want to bet on a 3rd.

I have no idea how solar charging would work into this - but would think that keeping an eye on your batteries voltage will guide you.

And finally - propane use goes up a lot when the furnace is in regular use - I can go all summer without emptying a tank - but during cold-weather camping it is not uncommon for us to go through a tank a week.

Hope this helps.

Good luck,

Jay