How to safely store battery cables over winter

[katdoug]

We just picked up our new 2020 FC27fb with factory installed solar and AGM batteries. With our previous 2013 FC, it was simple to unhook the battery cables and put our lead-acid batteries on a trickle charger in our basement, and we plan to do the same with this one. But this new rig has two black and 4 red cables connecting to the battery. I realize it is for the trickle charge from the solar panels. I took a photo of the current configuration and will label each cable with different colored electrical tape and place a corresponding piece of tape next to where each one connects for when Spring comes. My question is, do I need to put tape on all of the cable ends, and is there something else I should do for safety with the cable ends? How do you isolate them all? Is there a good place to tuck them for storage? We have checked the owner's manual and all of the smaller manuals that came with our rig, but did not see it specified exactly what is recommended. Thank you.

[jeffmc306]

Katdoug, congratulations on your new FC27FB!

I had the same questions as you and did the same. I tagged everything and removed the negative cables first then taped them up.

Afterwards I remembered the solar panels could be disconnected at the rooftop three-way dock. This would eliminate the potential of feeding solar voltage back to the battery box.

By the way, I’m using a PulseTech charger on the two Lifeline batteries to desulfate and trickle charge.

https://www.pulsetech.net/xc100-p-xt...esulfator.html

Good luck and enjoy your new GT!
-Jeff

[wulfraat]

I used to simply wrap them in an old rag. Don’t over think it. Just need to lay in the battery box not touching anything.

[A W Warn]

I use an old innertube from a bicycle to insulate the metal connectors.
Cut innertube into sleeves lengths as needed, slip them onto the cable ends, tape in place.

[drbrick]

We leave everything connected and allow the solar panel to maintain the batteries! Of course we don't have to be concerned/contend with heavy snow fall which would block the solar for an extended period of time.

[Hermes]

Not living in Canada's version of paradise, we do the same thing, but regularly clear the roof of snow which reduces the load on the suspension and allows the solar panels to maintain the batteries in top shape.

['55 Airlight]

Originally Posted by jeffmc306

Katdoug, congratulations on your new FC27FB!

I had the same questions as you and did the same. I tagged everything and removed the negative cables first then taped them up.

Afterwards I remembered the solar panels could be disconnected at the rooftop three-way dock. This would eliminate the potential of feeding solar voltage back to the battery box.
!
-Jeff

Is it the case that Airstream has not put 12VDC disconnects between the Photovoltaic panels and the solar controller? Wouldn't it be handier than climbing up on the roof to disconnect the solar output?

Michael

[JohnTF]

Need to see a wiring diagram to see what airstream screwed up , can't know without this info .

[jeffmc306]

Originally Posted by JohnTF

Need to see a wiring diagram to see what airstream screwed up , can't know without this info .

I was hoping they put a disconnect closer to the battery box but don’t see one in the Globetrotter wiring diagram from the Owner’s Manual. I think the only way to disconnect the solar panels is by the rooftop box.

Any thoughts?

[JCWDCW]

I just put a ziploc bag over the positive cable and tuck it into the battery box
JCW

[mefly2]

...just disconnecting the negatives won't work ???

[jeffmc306]

Originally Posted by mefly2

...just disconnecting the negatives won't work ???

The OP wants to pull the batteries and put them in the basement. The issue is the solar panels will still generate power and send it back to the battery box so you either want to protect the positive cables from touching any ground or disconnect the solar panels at the roof box to remove the potential.

Simplest to do is protect the positive cables. That said, if you’re not expecting the positive cables to be “hot” when off the battery and let them touch ground, you’re in for a surprise!

Yes, it’s only 12 volts but you don’t want to cause a short and damage the solar controller or cables.

[Don McKelvay]

Originally Posted by Hermes

Not living in Canada's version of paradise, we do the same thing, but regularly clear the roof of snow which reduces the load on the suspension and allows the solar panels to maintain the batteries in top shape.

Cute comment Hermes - we feel the same here in Ontario, and I am originally from the rainy city of Vancouver!

[JohnTF]

Originally Posted by jeffmc306

I was hoping they put a disconnect closer to the battery box but don’t see one in the Globetrotter wiring diagram from the Owner’s Manual. I think the only way to disconnect the solar panels is by the rooftop box.

Any thoughts?

This is only showing the solar , not the rest of the electrical - at least the shore power / charging , battery switch & gas detector ?
I've been reading for some time now about different systems , like the gas detector always on ?
Possibly some other systems , not sure .
Normally with a solar system , the charge controller " should " ? take both solar panel & charging from regular battery charger - from shore power , and use what ever is needed / available from either shore-charger or solar .
Without the shorepower charge in the diagram , I can't tell ?
Also no battery switch in the diagram ?
But as other have mentioned isolating / insulating the positive cables from anything else , like putting bag over & taping onto positive cables .

Guessing the panels are 100 watt time 2 , should be enough to [ under normal conditions ] keep the batteries charged .
The batteries if kept charged can not freeze , even in northern winters , the specific gravity of charged batteries require about -80 deg. F to freeze .
Or discharged about -20 deg. F to freeze .

So the load side of the bus-bars is missing .

[katdoug]

Innertubes? That is BRILLIANT! Thank you so much.

[jeffmc306]

Originally Posted by JohnTF

This is only showing the solar , not the rest of the electrical - at least the shore power / charging , battery switch & gas detector ?

...Without the shorepower charge in the diagram , I can't tell ?
Also no battery switch in the diagram ?

John, here's the complete schematic you were asking for.

[VT Wanderer]

For winter storage, I always spray both the battery terminals and the cable ends with Battery Terminal Spray and tuck the cables back into the now empty battery box. AND... I put a heavy coating of Dielectric Grease on the 7 pin electric cable head that connects the trailer to the truck. I also put a heavy coating of Dielectric Grease on the 7 pin outlet on the back of the truck.

[WhereStream]

Originally Posted by A W Warn

I use an old innertube from a bicycle to insulate the metal connectors.
Cut innertube into sleeves lengths as needed, slip them onto the cable ends, tape in place.

Great idea — there are lots of good uses for bicycle innertubes.

They make great tie downs, for example.

I keep a stretch of a bike tube in my toolbox, just in case.

[JohnTF]

Originally Posted by jeffmc306

John, here's the complete schematic you were asking for.

Several unknowns that are , or could be issues .
The charge controller should be designed for AMG batteries ?
All charging sources / possibilities --- should go through one control designed for AGM , a repeat because the converter is part of the original system .
THE SOLAR WAS ADDED AFTER - NEITHER ARE MENT TO WORK TOGETHER , from what I can determine [ more detail needed ] ?

Main point is , if a system [ all parts & connections ] are designed correctly , no need to remove batteries .

Also a correctly designed system using lead-acid chemistry should last a min. of 10 yrs. - a correctly designed system will not allow the batteries to be mis-treated either by the LOAD [ owners do not have control - the system does ] , or the charing system .

[jeffmc306]

JohnTF, I agree with your point that Solar should keep the batteries maintained during the winter. The OP wanted to remove them since he had a trickle charger already.

I did the same since I bought a PulseTech battery maintainer last year for our previous FC23FB that had lead acid batteries. I figured since I had it already I'd pull the batteries and use it. It has a desulfiating feature that improves battery life and capacity. Used for commercial and military applications.

Either would work, pick your flavor - chocolate or vanilla!