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Old 09-13-2021, 06:41 AM   #41
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2017 30' Classic
2022 Interstate 24X
Carlisle , Pennsylvania
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BambiVT View Post
Thanks for all of the battery info on storage, now I’m wondering if anyone has some ideas on how to keep our fresh water tank “fresh” during the hot summer months, in between taking her out? Since it’s seems to be impossible to fully drain the tank, what’s the best way to prevent it from smelling like grey water?
Hi

Pop open the drain valve on the fresh water tank at your last campsite and head home. When you get home, the tank will be empty. At your next fill up, you will forget it's open (trust me on this ... I have data ). That will "allow" you to run a bit of water through the tank to rinse it out. Since it's fresh water, dumping it on the ground should not be a problem.

Bob
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Old 09-14-2021, 05:01 AM   #42
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Is that a truth? That it's impossible to fully drain the tank? I haven't heard that before. But if it's true and you're very concerned about it, you could put a bit of diluted bleach in and then "rinse" it out before filling up for use.
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Old 09-15-2021, 06:26 AM   #43
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2017 30' Classic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by farafield View Post
Is that a truth? That it's impossible to fully drain the tank? I haven't heard that before. But if it's true and you're very concerned about it, you could put a bit of diluted bleach in and then "rinse" it out before filling up for use.
Hi

The tank has a flat bottom.( you can see this from under the trailer ). If the trailer is leveled so that the side away from the drain is low (even by a small amount) the drain valve will not empty the tank. Often this is the passenger side of the trailer.

If you chock it up so that the passenger side is high, you now need to get it level front to back. (if the valve is in the middle of the side of the tank). Again a bit of fiddling.

Much easier to open the valve and go drive around for a while.

If you try to empty the tank with the pump, that's not going to happen. You need a bit of water *above* the point the outflow pipe connects to the tank. If there isn't, it will suck air into the pipe and the pump will stop moving water.

So yes, you can empty the tank. No it's not as easy as you might think.

The same "leveling" stuff also applies when you are out and about trying to use fresh water. We can easily see a 20% change on the ever reliable gauge going from one location to another.

Bob
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Old 09-15-2021, 07:08 AM   #44
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2003 25' Classic
Houstatlantavegas , Malebolgia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by farafield View Post
Is that a truth? That it's impossible to fully drain the tank? I haven't heard that before. But if it's true and you're very concerned about it, you could put a bit of diluted bleach in and then "rinse" it out before filling up for use.
Yes...kind'a.

I found out several years ago.
I was doing my normal winterizing thing when I lifted the street side after draining the FW tank, the drain was still open.
I expected some water to drain but not for 45min.
FWIW for 10yrs plus the tank survived without freeze damage.👍

Bob
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Old 09-16-2021, 07:03 AM   #45
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Hi

As long as the water in the tank is below the line to the pump, there is very little chance of there being freeze damage. The geometry of the ice cube is working in your favor in this case.

Bob
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Old 09-17-2021, 06:37 PM   #46
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2019 23' Flying Cloud
Port Colborne , Ontario
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Storage and batteries

I need to ask another question regarding storage and batteries. We have arranged a storage lot not too far from our home. The plan is to store the trailer there year round as I do not like it on our driveway. The neighbour kids play with a ball and our trailer is right where they can hit it.
We have a solar panel on the trailer and I was wondering it it would be enough to keep the batteries charged during the winter. We live in the snow belt.
Or, should I disconnect the positive leads on the two batteries. We plan on using our trailer during winter for trips to various points south and we would pick the trailer up and bring it home for loading. Once far enough south, I will de-winterize and then re-winterize as we head back up north by filling the system with antifreeze and draining the HW heater
My main concern is that the batteries are okay when disconnected and the temperature drops down below 32 deg.
Thanks,
Keith S.
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Old 09-18-2021, 07:55 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith S View Post
I need to ask another question regarding storage and batteries. We have arranged a storage lot not too far from our home. The plan is to store the trailer there year round as I do not like it on our driveway. The neighbour kids play with a ball and our trailer is right where they can hit it.
We have a solar panel on the trailer and I was wondering it it would be enough to keep the batteries charged during the winter. We live in the snow belt.
Or, should I disconnect the positive leads on the two batteries. We plan on using our trailer during winter for trips to various points south and we would pick the trailer up and bring it home for loading. Once far enough south, I will de-winterize and then re-winterize as we head back up north by filling the system with antifreeze and draining the HW heater
My main concern is that the batteries are okay when disconnected and the temperature drops down below 32 deg.
Thanks,
Keith S.
Hi

Simple answer for batteries is to spend ~$30 on a switch

https://shop.pkys.com/Blue-Sea-60062...ck_p_3648.html

(There are other models and other vendors ...)

Put the switch either in the positive or negative leads from the battery. You want it to turn *everything* off, so that includes the inverter if you have one.

Flip the switch off when in storage and flip it back on again when you come out of storage.

The only fun is that the switch probably isn't going to be someplace easy to see. The next level solution is one of these:

https://shop.pkys.com/Blue-Sea-7701-...BS_p_2536.html

or

https://shop.pkys.com/Blue-Sea-7700-...2V_p_1691.html

They let you do the same "full cutoff" process. They operate with a cute little pushbutton that you can mount remotely from the main. device.

With either one, the effect it the same. You have zero drain from loads attached to the battery when in the "off" position. If the battery is in good shape and starts off fully charged, there should be no issues in winter storage. You should plan on fully charging the battery as it comes out of storage if it's been stored for 6 months.

Fun !!

Bob
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Old 09-18-2021, 07:58 AM   #48
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NO....Disconnect the negative & wrap in tape.

The POS will spark-a-lot on any grounded contact point.
Make sure they are fully charged before disconnecting.

Bob
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Old 09-18-2021, 09:40 AM   #49
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2017 25' International
West Lake Hills , Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uncle_bob View Post
Hi

Simple answer for batteries is to spend ~$30 on a switch

https://shop.pkys.com/Blue-Sea-60062...ck_p_3648.html

(There are other models and other vendors ...)

Put the switch either in the positive or negative leads from the battery. You want it to turn *everything* off, so that includes the inverter if you have one.

Flip the switch off when in storage and flip it back on again when you come out of storage.

The only fun is that the switch probably isn't going to be someplace easy to see. The next level solution is one of these:

https://shop.pkys.com/Blue-Sea-7701-...BS_p_2536.html

or

https://shop.pkys.com/Blue-Sea-7700-...2V_p_1691.html

They let you do the same "full cutoff" process. They operate with a cute little pushbutton that you can mount remotely from the main. device.

With either one, the effect it the same. You have zero drain from loads attached to the battery when in the "off" position. If the battery is in good shape and starts off fully charged, there should be no issues in winter storage. You should plan on fully charging the battery as it comes out of storage if it's been stored for 6 months.

Fun !!

Bob
What is minimum amp rating necessary? Would 125 amp be enough?
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Old 09-18-2021, 04:10 PM   #50
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Port Colborne , Ontario
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Thanks Much. It will either install the switch or disconnect the negative. As this the first time our trailer needs to be stored away from home I had no idea whether to remove the batteries or not. However, as we plan on using the trailer during the winter, I need to be able to fire it up quickly.
I appreciate the advice.
Keith S.
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Old 09-19-2021, 07:23 AM   #51
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Carlisle , Pennsylvania
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fungus View Post
What is minimum amp rating necessary? Would 125 amp be enough?
Hi

If you have an inverter, 125A is not enough.

These switches get rated in terms of surge (normally way up there) and in terms of continuous running current. Anything >250A on the "running" number should be fine for a normal setup. Since those are < $30 there's not a lot of reason to go smaller.

If you have a bank of 10 BB Lithiums and two 3KW inverters to run both A/C's at the same time then yes, you will need something bigger than a 250A switch. If you have gone that crazy, I suspect you already know what size switch you need

Bob
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Old 09-19-2021, 07:26 AM   #52
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2017 30' Classic
2022 Interstate 24X
Carlisle , Pennsylvania
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith S View Post
Thanks Much. It will either install the switch or disconnect the negative. As this the first time our trailer needs to be stored away from home I had no idea whether to remove the batteries or not. However, as we plan on using the trailer during the winter, I need to be able to fire it up quickly.
I appreciate the advice.
Keith S.
Hi

I did the "remove the batteries" thing one and only one time. Pulling a pair of AGM's out from behind the 40 gallon propane tanks was not any fun at all.....

Bob
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