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Old 10-25-2009, 06:59 AM   #101
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Winterization... regarding the valves...

A question:
Should I leave the black and grey thank valves opened after winterization or should I close them?
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Old 10-25-2009, 08:04 AM   #102
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closing them keeps the seals in the proper shape.

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Old 10-25-2009, 08:27 AM   #103
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I finally got to winterizing myself this year after paying the dealer to do it last year. I didn't want to go to home depot to get a fitting and a hose to connect directly to the water pump, and I didn't want to pour antifreeze directly into the tank because I didn't know how to clean or take out the filter. Then at 2am one night it dawned on me...the exterior shower hose was probably the same size fitting. Sure enough it screwed right into the intake valve and it only took two gallons to do the whole trailer. I also opened up the hot water bypass after draining it to allow a little antifreeze to run through the HW tank. Thanks for all the good advice here.
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Old 11-10-2009, 11:32 AM   #104
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Using the fresh water tank

I'm at work and don't have time to find the post I'm about to mention, but I know in one of these winterizing threads I read of an owner who filled the fresh water tank with AF, turned on the pump, opened the faucets until pink ran out and that's how he/she winterized. It seems so easy - what is the reason(s) to NOT do it this way?
thanks,
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Old 11-10-2009, 12:22 PM   #105
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Originally Posted by rustyrivet View Post
Thanks, Gene;
For some reason I thought there was a brass fitting that clipped on to the adaptor so you wouldn't have to hold it. I have the plastic adaptor as well as one made of brass but haven't found the right aircompressor fitting except the one used to pump up tires. I haven't tried that one yet. Jim
I use an air chuck very similar to this,http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...70_42494_42494
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Old 11-10-2009, 04:19 PM   #106
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This is the first time for me to winterize my 1987 Excella. I will get the fittings to open the drains, use air to blow out the lines, and attach the fitting to the water pump to pump anti=freeze into the lines.

My question is, there is no drain on the hot water tank. The electric heating element apparently is screwed into that connection. Connected to the plumbing to and from the hot water tank is a box like gizmo called "Automatic Push Button Winterizing." I have all the owner's manuals, they came with the rig when I bought it last spring from the original owner. He's not available to answer my questions, unfortunately. There is a lever on that APBW as it's labeled. The lever has "bypass" and "normal flow". But with no manuals, and after diligent search, I can find no "push button" for automatic winterizing! LOLOL so, help?

Thanks!
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Old 11-10-2009, 04:39 PM   #107
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We all need to remember that Anti-freeze is lethal poison to cats dogs birds horses and people...when you get through the winter all nice and safe-don't be a dork and drain it out on open ground. Get rid of it through the proper facilities. I know alot of people know this, so I am just saying something for the ones who don't.
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Old 11-10-2009, 05:13 PM   #108
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Originally Posted by redhawkerII View Post
...We all need to remember that Anti-freeze is lethal poison to cats dogs birds horses and people...
AUTOmotive yes...

RV no...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/472011-post22.html

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2airishuman View Post

rv 'glycol' is proplyene and NEVER ethylene....

propylene glycol is used in foods and cosmetics and meds and can be consumed in small quanities

(as in a poorly rinsed freshwater tank)

ethylene glycol IS A POISON in even small amts and

should never be consumed or used in an application where ingestion is remotely possible...

many dogs are killed by licking up some sweet e/g....

so too many human kidneys distroyed by ingestion of 'ethyl'...
hopefully NO ONE puts automotive coolant in the trailer water lines OR tanks...

as for disposal...

BOTH propylene and ethylene glycol can be safely FLUSHED into most public sewer (toilet) lines...

this may not be true in ALL public water services.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnE View Post
... I read of an owner who filled the fresh water tank with AF, turned on the pump, opened the faucets until pink ran out and that's how he/she winterized. It seems so easy - what is the reason(s) to NOT do it this way?...
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f458...uck-22185.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f443...ean-36730.html

cheers
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Old 11-10-2009, 05:24 PM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnE View Post
I'm at work and don't have time to find the post I'm about to mention, but I know in one of these winterizing threads I read of an owner who filled the fresh water tank with AF, turned on the pump, opened the faucets until pink ran out and that's how he/she winterized. It seems so easy - what is the reason(s) to NOT do it this way?
thanks,
john
Hi John. The syrupy consistency of RV antifreeze makes it extremely difficult to remove from a fresh water tank. Running it thru the pump [via bypass valve] only puts it in the piping where water changes occur pretty fast while you run fresh water through in the spring and let the pump run and run. We usually carry jugs for fresh drinking water. Even with flushing the pipes in the spring, I don't give the dogs water out of the tap until the 3rd trip or so and I don't see any further foaming.

Quote:
Originally Posted by redhawkerII View Post
We all need to remember that Anti-freeze is lethal poison to cats dogs birds horses and people...when you get through the winter all nice and safe-don't be a dork and drain it out on open ground. Get rid of it through the proper facilities. I know alot of people know this, so I am just saying something for the ones who don't.
Propylene glycol in RV antifreeze is not the same as the more toxic ethylene glycol we usually use in our cars & trucks. Propylene glycol is available in USP purity and used in cosmetics and, yes, even a moistening agent in some pet foods. See Propylene Glycol Antifreeze Safer for Pets: PG Antifreeze a Less Toxic Alternative to Ethylene Glycol Products | Suite101.com. I still keep it away from pet ingestion. And boy, it sure does kill grass very well!
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Old 11-10-2009, 08:00 PM   #110
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And, filling the fresh water tank means a lot of gallons. Mine is 39. RV antifreeze varies in price, but multiply the price by gallons and the $ is enough you could take it an RV dealer for winterizing cheaper.

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Old 11-10-2009, 08:34 PM   #111
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One minor addition that someone recently suggested is that once you have the water tank bypassed and you are pumping antifreeze into the system, to crack the valves to the HW tank open for a second to blow any residual water out of the short pipes into the tank. Made sense to me and I added it to my list. The person that posted said that he had one of these pipes crack on him.

Maybe you had that and I missed it - if so, apologies!


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Old 11-11-2009, 09:39 AM   #112
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Thanks Bob - I figured there must be a reason to not do it that way, and I did notice the AF seems kind of thick.
John
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Old 11-11-2009, 12:04 PM   #113
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John HD, Am about to use this process for winterizing, but am not sure about the correct postion of the valve you reference. In my case it is set parallel to the floor and "in line" to the hoses. This is how it has been left for normal pump use. Is that correct when attempting to draw the antifreeze? Jack
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Old 11-11-2009, 01:27 PM   #114
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... not sure about the correct postion of the valve you reference. In my case it is set parallel to the floor and "in line" to the hoses...
see post #6 in early in this thread for the water heater BYPASS valve positions...

otherwise one will just FILL the water heater with pink stuff.
__________

the camco kit valve has 3 positions....

-FULL OFF to the fresh water line AND side extension hose
-connected/flow from the fresh water line
-connected/flow from PINK stuff bottle

this is ON the package instructions, but a SIMPLE test is to...

turn ON the pump and place a finger over the clear hose end.

turn 3 way knob until SUCTION is felt at the hose end.

then stick the hose in the bottle of PINK stuff...

there is a PICTURE of this PINK STUFF process in post 13 below...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f445...-fb-36644.html

and more help (or confusion) here...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f458...mbi-36580.html

cheers
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Old 11-11-2009, 05:13 PM   #115
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sorry 4 the misdirect in the last post.

the PHOTOS of the 3 way valve are in post #24 and 41 (not 13) in this thread...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f445...-fb-36644.html

(it helps to ZOOM pics to see the turn cock knob in action...

cheers
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Old 11-11-2009, 07:15 PM   #116
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Simply Complicated

Ok - I have NO problem understanding the 3 valves for a HW bypass but HOW does this mess work? With only 3 lines I can't seem to figure out how this will block inlet and outlet in the bypass mode while letting water pump past the WH?

How about a more basic question...Anyone got a 'destruction manual for this thing? As the photo shows, the label is not readable. In the position shown hot water works fine, I flip the handle - the flow never gets hot.

Beyond that I simply guessing it's a bypass valve since the 1991 documentation is SOOOOO detailed.
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Old 11-11-2009, 07:38 PM   #117
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...Anyone got a 'destruction manual for this thing?
As the photo shows, the label is not readable.
In the position shown hot water works fine, I flip the handle - the flow never gets hot...
cool KNOB hiho'

wag, this is NOT oem (but then again your trailer was built by burnt out hippies in the 90s...)

wag #2 it's a 3 way ball valve,

since 3 pipes appear 2 connect 2 the blue junction box.

so depending on if the ball is drilled as a T or L there are several water flow combinations...

here's a pic of the typical options.

who's up for a 3 way?

the flow is likely along this pattern...

1. handle UP causes roof leaks
2. handle DOWN causes floor leaks
3. handle HORIZONTAL causes window leaks..



if this doesn' help U may need to consult one of those guys with...

low riding jeans and a butt crack showing.

cheers
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Old 11-11-2009, 11:30 PM   #118
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hiho,

yeah that's a new one, my 1992 is different as my photos show.

i guess you will just have to experiment and write some notes in your manual.

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Old 09-07-2010, 09:00 PM   #119
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Hi John,

what make and model compressor are you using? Can you post directions on how you created your own adaptor?


We are contemplating our options for winterizing. We are in Oregon and want to use our '70 Overlander into November. We are not fond of the antifreeze, even if it is listed as 'non-toxic', we found the anti-freeze flavor stayed in our water system for a while.

Thanks,
Andrew
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Old 09-07-2010, 10:23 PM   #120
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Blow out plugs can be found at most RV stores.
http://www.campingworld.com/search/i...d&Nty=1&Ntpc=1

You may not be able to find one where I live.
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