Visit our Popular Forums

paul k · 10-12-2003, 09:59 AM

great job do you have any tips on geting the rv antifreeze taste out of the system in the spring

Tinsel Loaf · 10-12-2003, 10:35 AM

Nice post John. What do you you do for your batteries?

john hd · 10-12-2003, 10:36 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Paulk
great job do you have any tips on geting the rv antifreeze taste out of the system in the spring

paulk,

welcome to the forum!

in the spring i hook up to the city water connection and just flush everything out twice.

large volume of water does the trick!

as for the fresh tank, i fill it with water and a cup of bleach. let stand for a day and dump/refill.

john

john hd · 10-12-2003, 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Tinsel Loaf
Nice post John. What do you you do for your batteries?

remove them, clean them, top them up if needed, and store in the basement.

i give them a charge about once a month with an automotive charger.

they are not coming out just yet, depending on weather, i might use the trailer for base camp deer hunting!

i will use it dry, not needing to rewinterize when i am done with it for the year. sometime in late november i hope!

john

paul k · 10-12-2003, 10:46 AM

how about draining all of the water and bypassing the water heater and just blowing the system out with air any one have any comments on this method i am just currious because i am planing a weekend trip in early november and dont want to winterize over and over.

paul k · 10-12-2003, 10:53 AM

i do a lot of winter camping with the guys from work my rig is the base for BEER CAMP (LOL) and trying to figure out the best to do this without any dammage to the system

john hd · 10-12-2003, 10:59 AM

paul,

that "could" work, i would be a little concerned with any water droplets left in the valve bodies.

even a few droplets left in the faucets or toilet valve could destroy them.

unless you really put the air to it for an extended amount of time i'd worry.

with the little three way valve installed, winterizing with antifreeze is really a 3 beer or 10 min. job! tops!

john

overlander76 · 10-12-2003, 11:25 AM

I removed my three way valve this summer after discovering that is was leaking air into the pump when the pump kicked on. It workes great for winterizing though. If I hadn't had the clear tubing I would have never known. Has anyone else had this problem?

If a had a few Millers the problem would probably work itself out.

Brian

john hd · 10-12-2003, 11:40 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by overlander76
I removed my three way valve this summer after discovering that is was leaking air into the pump when the pump kicked on. It workes great for winterizing though. If I hadn't had the clear tubing I would have never known. Has anyone else had this problem?

If a had a few Millers the problem would probably work itself out.

Brian

the cap on the valve has a o ring on it. this should prevent air from entering the pump.

i'll have to report back if it presents any problems.

if it does, it would take about a min. (one beer) to remove it!

john

Jabba · 10-13-2003, 09:10 AM

Ok, what's the suggestion for those of us with the original electric hot water heater and no known drain? Will I screw it up if I blow it out and just add a gallon of antifreeze rather than filling the whole thing up?

Nice job John!

john hd · 10-13-2003, 10:01 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Jabba
Ok, what's the suggestion for those of us with the original electric hot water heater and no known drain? Will I screw it up if I blow it out and just add a gallon of antifreeze rather than filling the whole thing up?

Nice job John!

jason,

hard to believe your water heater lacks a drain!

blowing it out then filling it sounds like a good option.

what did the p.o. do when winterizing? perhaps you could remove the lowest line feeding it and drain it that way.

john

Jabba · 10-13-2003, 10:11 AM

I wish I knew what the P.O. did. Quite a few mysteries to be solved, especially on the auxilliary heater wiring (another thread). I haven't looked at the heater since early summer, but I believe both the inlet and outlet are towards the top, it is weird. Problem with draining it is the heater is under the bunk and has no outside access door on that side. I'm going to open that side up and investigate tonight. Another question, does anyone add antifreeze to the blackwater tank to keep what fluid is remaining in there from freezing? I apologize for being such a rookie on these questions, it's my first rig!

RoadKingMoe · 10-13-2003, 10:22 AM

Most RV antifreeze isn't meant to be diluted. When done so in a tank with remaining water, it offers very little freeze protection. I don't put ANY in the fresh water tank, because it will take forever to get the taste out. I drain it as much as possible and don't worry about the water remaining in the bottom.

I DO redrain my grey water tank after flushing all the water out of the lines. I make sure it gets some antifreeze by being generous with it when filling the sinks and shower trap. I also pour some down the toilet into the black tank. These are both done to make sure there's some down next to the valves to lubricate them.

The Atwood WH have a drain, but on the Suburban, the anode has to be removed to drain it. It's a good idea to check the anode annually anyway.

KIMILI · 10-13-2003, 01:14 PM

Thank you John!!!

This is great info for all of us and it can save us big bucks, $150-200 for winterizing at the dealer here!

Is this method OK for our new unit, 25'CCD? Any variations?Please advise.

If yes I'll go out and get two 6 packs! ...we're newbies and we'll sure take longer than 10 min...

Thanks!

john hd · 10-13-2003, 02:17 PM

kimili

can't imagine your new one would be any differant than mine. the valve locations might be in another place.

but everything should be the same.

anyone with a newer trailer can jump in here if i am wrong!

john

RoadKingMoe · 10-13-2003, 03:26 PM

On mine, the two low point drains look like automobile radiator petcocks and are outside, underneath the trailer, on the street side. Besides the three water heater bypass valves, there's one that controls whether or not pumped water from the tank can get to the outside spigot. Leave that open. And I think there's yet another, but I can't remember... it's been a year

Ed Keyes · 10-13-2003, 05:40 PM

Lived in the Chicago area for years. Would winterize my RV in fall, then decide to take a trip late Oct. to Wis., winterize again, take a Nov. trip to Fla., winterize again.Found a better solution: I moved to Florida. I sure dont miss that winterizing......... although I am still in the habit of putting on fat in preparation of the winter season.

Jabba · 10-13-2003, 06:01 PM

OK, I checked our hot water heater out, it has an upper and a lower fitting, but still nowhere to drain. P.O. put the low point drain on the upper line (???!!!) and nothing for the lower line (which is the inlet side and tees to the city water fitting above it). Looks like it's time to add a floor penetration and valve to drain it.

frozen chosen · 10-13-2003, 06:15 PM

Now, I'm guessing my soon to be had AS International manual will have an exhaustive chapter on winterizing procedures along with detailed photos and step by step descritptions. Right?

KIMILI · 10-14-2003, 11:49 AM

Quote:

Now, I'm guessing my soon to be had AS International manual will have an exhaustive chapter on winterizing procedures along with detailed photos and step by step descritptions. Right?

...keeep dreaming!

The chapter is not that great. John's posts here are 100% better than the manual.

Again thanks John!