Blowing out water lines necessary?

[Wayne&Sam]

Why didn't I think of that??!! In fact, if I just filled the fresh water tank with it, I would never have to bother with the whole winterizing/de-winterizing thing. But you might find me slumped over in the shower.....

[thecatsandi]

Originally Posted by remcolent

You might think about using whisky or bourbon instead of anti freeze.
It sure doe;s taste a lot better

Cheap vodka is commonly used. It leaves no taste behind.

[silversnail]

I followed the instructions in the AS manual exactly, except for two things: when I disconnected the exhaust hose on the water pump and turned it on to expel the water, it did NOT expell. There was definately water in there, but it would not expel. Now that I think back, I believe I failed to removed the inlet hose, which is probably why it wouldn't expel. So there was probably a half a cup of water in there that wouldn't come out. Then I didn't blow out the lines, because I'm not crazy about the idea of buying a cheap/small air compressor that will only be another THING to have to find room for. I haven't seen any that are actually good and efficient for tires, but if anybody can recommend a compact GOOD one, please let me know. So with the water in the pump, and not blowing out the lines, I figured 4 gallons of antifreeze was more than enough to make up for that. The antifreeze started coming out pink from the faucets after the first gallon. I figured after the 4th gallon, it proably wasn't diluted so much anymore.

But here's a question that's been nagging me: What about the water lines that run TO the water pump? I pumped in the AF directly at the inlet port of the pump, so the AF got to all the faucets, toilet, showers, yes - but what about the water lines from the city inlet TO the water pump? And how does one get antifreeze into the no-fuss black tank flush?

I think I too will leave the furnace on it's lowest setting. Maine gets piles of potentially damaging snow and ice. Besides keeping the insides safe from days of below-zero temps, perhaps the furnace will help keep the snow and ice from piling up too bad on the exterior too...maybe?

Thanks for all the replies. This is very helpful.

[CanoeStream]

Hi silversnail. I've got about the smallest compressor one could use -- like this one. Available everywhere... It certainly has limits but at least can give and hold 50 psi for a while. I can discharge the tank if I have multiple faucets open or a single faucet open for an extended period, but this works just fine. There is no tire inflator that could fill the bill IMO.

I blew out my lines yesterday. I've always thought about the line between the fresh tank and the pump -- there's a strainer full of water and a check valve in that line. I know the check valve holds back water -- a weekend hooked up to city water and I'll have zero backflow into my fresh tank. So yesterday ... I had the fresh tank lower drains open. On the outside city water inlet I attach the compressor using one of tksbasket's 'goodies' that arrived by mail over the weekend. I couldn't really pressurize the system to blow out even one faucet. Turns out air gets past the check valve and my open, empty fresh tank was letting my pressure escape. So I eyeballed the strainer and it was perfectly empty - no water in there at all. Bingo!

I avoid pressure buildup in the system. Use a max of 50-60 psi and still don't leave the compressor running unless I'm quickly opening a tap to blow out. Don't forget the toilet line...

Right - I can't bet the black tank flush is self-draining. I put the 3/4" thread compressor adaptor (link above) on the flush inlet and at least blow some air into the black tank -- it should escape out the vent stack just fine.

Doing a complete job of winterizing should give you confidence to let your baby go cold. Running out of propane or a power outage would freak me out. Your batteries wouldn't function long in ultra cold -- the furnace blower is about the heaviest draw they experience while dry camping! Do you ever see subzero weather in coastal Maine?

[crispyboy]

I keep the job simple.
Drain the fresh water tank.
Drain the hot water tank.
Blow the lines. Make sure air flows from all sinks and toilet.
Take out the pump filter.
Take the line off behind the toilet and put the rv antifreeze in the toilet inlet line with a funnel making sure it goes into the bowl.
Dump rv antifreeze in the drains
Make sure no water is in the black and gray tank.

Take the cushions inside the house for the winter.
Place two 36" Goldenrods on the floor to keep down the humidity.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by crispyboy

I keep the job simple.
Drain the fresh water tank.
Drain the hot water tank.
Blow the lines. Make sure air flows from all sinks and toilet.
Take out the pump filter.
Take the line off behind the toilet and put the rv antifreeze in the toilet inlet line with a funnel making sure it goes into the bowl.
Dump rv antifreeze in the drains
Make sure no water is in the black and gray tank.

Take the cushions inside the house for the winter.
Place two 36" Goldenrods on the floor to keep down the humidity.

All of the above, plus remove the shower head.

Andy

[ata3001]

Just a heads up from experience. Last year I had a brass elbow on my hot water tank split from freezing water. I had already winterized the TT with the pink stuff, but it still happened. Here's the situation others need to be aware of & to avoid. There are 3 bypass valves by the hot water tank that need to be either closed or opened, depending on what they do & I had done that. I then used the pink RV anti freeze & completed that task. The problem was the 9" of pipe between the shut off valve to/from the hot water tank & the hot water tank itself. That section of pipe does NOT get any pink stuff due to having switched over these 3 valves to bypass the hot water tank & THEN adding the pink stuff. There must have still been water in this short 9" of pipe & that's where the brass elbow into the tank is, & THAT brass elbow is what split. This year I put a small compressor on the city water outlet, opened all the faucets, low point drains & removed the hot water tank plug & blew out the lines with air BEFORE changing over the bypass valves & adding the pink stuff. Hopefully, no more frozen/split water lines.

[Wingeezer]

Originally Posted by ata3001

Just a heads up from experience. Last year I had a brass elbow on my hot water tank split from freezing water.

Uh-oh, now you've got me worried! I never had that problem, but I can understand what you are saying and it makes sense.


My trailer is now winterized and put away in storage until we take it out in Feb. so hopefully all will be well - I have never had the problem that you mentioned so I'm guessing it will be ok.

I think I will modify my winterization checklist next year however, and once I have the pink stuff being pumped into the lines, crack each of the hot water tank in/out valves open for a second to blow a bit of antifreeze thru those short lines into the HW tank to displace any water.


Thanks for the heads up!

[clydecrashcu]

Many ideas on winterizing. I don't know if this applies to all water heaters, but I have heard that the anti-freeze is not good to use in a water heater that has the electric heating element besides the propane.

[rustyrivet]

I think Handn is right on with his procedure. Last year, we hired an RV professional to add a (second) battery to our Safari. He mentioned that he winterized RV's for several of the large local dealers. I ask how he did it and his procedure was precisely like the one Handn described above. He said he had done it hundreds of times and never had a problem. Keep in mind that we are in Oregon, not Maine and have milder winters. The tip about the faucet filter is also excellent. I removed ours last winter. The AS manual recommends it as a precaution. Good luck. jc

[rustyrivet]

All liquid should have some taste. I prefer Bombay Saphire,and a touch of vermouth. Don't put the olives in. The plug the lines. jc

[rustyrivet]

I bought a compressor similar to CanoeStream's, just a different brand. It works great for winterizing. As far as small compressors that might work for tires and winterizing, you might want to check the Viair website. They have a number of portable compressors. Theirs will clamp on to the battery for power and have a long enough compressor hose to reach the trailer tires and the vehicle tires. I looked at a number of portable compressors (Slime, etc) before buying theirs. jc