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Old 07-30-2019, 01:26 PM   #21
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Do I see correctly the outboard end of the carport is on poles? Put hydraulic jacks on the poles - raise them a foot to get the trailer in, then lower.
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Old 07-30-2019, 01:31 PM   #22
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The port roof could be raised for entry and exit. Pat
I think Pat may have the answer. Just make it easy to jack-up the roof for when you enter and exit (then drop it back down). Couple of bottle jacks and you might be all set.
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Old 07-30-2019, 01:35 PM   #23
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Parking your future Airstream

I was a full time RE-MAX Realtor for 9 years in the Cincinnati, Ohio market area. You would not be the first person to sell there house to have a proper place to park the toys. Travel Trailers, Boats, Motorcycles, ATV's. You name it.

Dallas is an active market. Find a place that will allow you to build a proper shelter for your Airstream. Texas is famous for hail storms so I understand you wanting to have it covered for storage. Personally check all restrictions on the property you may be interested in.

Upside is you lose the nasty neighbor and you might find a nice house upgrade as well. Interview at least 3 experienced, FULL TIME Realtors. No part timers. Nothing will mess up a transaction faster than a part time agent. I know. I sold over 400 homes in 9 years. I could tell you some real horror stories about dealing with part time or semi retired agents.
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Old 07-30-2019, 01:39 PM   #24
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Order it without the AC unit then get a minisplit.
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Old 07-30-2019, 03:26 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PKI View Post
The port roof could be raised for entry and exit. Pat
This^

I have a shed that has camper jacks on each corner, it used to be a mobile show piece for a solar company and thy would move it place to place. I would consider modifying the shed to accept these and raise and lower it when needed.

https://www.amazon.com/Trailer-RIECO.../dp/B01KR7CLRU

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Old 07-30-2019, 04:13 PM   #26
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Do I see correctly the outboard end of the carport is on poles? Put hydraulic jacks on the poles - raise them a foot to get the trailer in, then lower.

Hmmmm!!! At first I was thinking, "No, the poles are cemented into the ground," but now I'm seeing what you are saying. Modify the top into a lid. I could hinge the back, put caps on the middle poles and build a hydraulic lift on the front two poles and pop the top a little bit. Just crazy enough to maybe work! haha.
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Old 07-30-2019, 06:02 PM   #27
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Just make sure whatever you come up with is held down against any strong wind that can lift it.

I’d suggest longish hydraulic cylinders On the front two columns that are well secured to the roof and the supports and a locking mechanism on the center and front posts for safety.

Great overkill engineering project, by the way.
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Old 07-30-2019, 06:21 PM   #28
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You could use the jacks I referenced (they also come in an electric version) and have everything bolted/hinged. These jacks a pretty butch and have 1-ton rating each.

After having experienced them moving the shed onto my property and using them to re-level the shed when it was full, this is the route I'd go if I were in the OP's shoes.

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Old 07-30-2019, 06:29 PM   #29
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Can you lower the concrete where the trailer would be parked?
My vote. No big deal.
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Old 07-30-2019, 06:45 PM   #30
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Watch those left side (by the house) supports. They are not apparently straight poles which might mean you have to raise from the top of the poles, not the bottoms. Good luck working this one out.
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Old 07-30-2019, 08:50 PM   #31
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What does "I can't modify my carport" mean? Did you sign an agreement that this configuration would never be changed? Are you born d by that agreement to never strengthen then structure, to never rebuild it if it is damaged, to never remove it if the structure does not meet your objectives for the property, to never install solar panels, or did you agree to install the current configuration to get the permit approved with no agreement with respect to any future permits on the property?

Note, the roof does not need to be lifted on all four corners. Only the right side needs to go up. The left side needs to be hinged. You do not need a precision ground piston like a jack uses, because you do not need a fluid seal. You only need a set of columns that slide on or in the existing supports. They need to make the structure stronger. That is the justification for the change. Your house protects the port from wind. The other side is not protected and needs to be strengthened.

Give it some thought. You may figure out a solution or just move. We all have options.

Note - not all regulatory design review folks are the same. A good engineer can understand variance and a b roader intent that does not conflict with aesthetics. Do some research with the local contractors. . Pat
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Old 07-31-2019, 08:17 AM   #32
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The short answer is... Our city has a 10 foot tall max carport law and I cannot build on an easement.

We started this project building it 12 feet tall and it was over an easement. My next door neighbor saw the tall roof line over his fence and called the city and said "I don't like this tall thing my neighbor is building"

The city code guy came by and said, "Yeah. We spotted you and now you need to get this building inspected and all within boundaries before we leave you alone."

The code guy and the original guy building it both admitted that if no one had called, no one would have cared. It's behind a fence not visible from the street.

If I start modifying, my grumpy stay at home neighbor who wears tin foil hats and wants to sell everyone on his next pyramid scheme will most likely call again and complain. If the city comes out again and says "Hey, he called again, and we notice that your building is not within our guidelines again. Fix it."

But a top that goes up and down. If the city ever came by and measured it, I could say "Look. it's 10 feet tall and within the allowed footprint."
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Old 07-31-2019, 08:47 AM   #33
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Note that if you go with hinges on one side, as the other side goes up, the roof beam mounting position moves in away from the column. It becomes the longer leg of the triangle. So the beam either needs to slide as it lifts up or the mount needs to be a strut that follows the arc. Pat
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Old 07-31-2019, 09:15 AM   #34
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It might be the cheapest route to hire someone to "take care of the neighbor" so to speak.

PM me for couple references.....best regards


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Old 07-31-2019, 09:16 AM   #35
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could you somehow place a hydraulic lift under the support beams and move them up and down when needed Also I might ask the builder of the structure for ideas
Good Luck
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Old 07-31-2019, 10:05 AM   #36
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Move to NTAC, you might find a house and carport there with "better" neighbors.
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Old 07-31-2019, 12:01 PM   #37
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Given your situation & especially your neighbor, my vote would be either to store the AS elsewhere or move someplace more inviting or petition the city for a variance, although from what you say, the city doesn't sound very cooperative.

Also, as a lawyer, I question whether all the recommendations about temporarily raising the roof to allow entry & exit would satisfy your jurisdiction's code. If I were your neighbor and wanted to be nasty, I would argue that "a height limit of 10 feet" means "the height of 10 feet shall not be exceeded at any time, even temporarily." Before proceeding with that remedy, I sure would want to review the relevant code with heightened scrutiny.

Good luck, whatever you decide.
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Old 07-31-2019, 02:17 PM   #38
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Review the Code and dig a foot out from the present floor level. I had the same problem with a fence, since my yard was one foot lower than the neighbors his side measured 6' and my side measured 7. Since the adjoining wall was 7 feet that made everything look 6'. So the building inspector never noticed. If he had, my wall would have required an engineering approval. Talk about skinning cats!
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Old 07-31-2019, 02:58 PM   #39
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articulate the carport roof

Can you hinge the rear roof of the carport and add jacks to the front edge of the carport, allowing you to raise and lower the front to insert the trailer?
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Old 07-31-2019, 03:01 PM   #40
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Jason,

I propose excavating two long trenches in your concrete floor to accommodate the Airstream tires and gain 9 more inches of clearance. A hassle to do but better then messing around with smaller trailer wheels. If under carrrage water tank clearance is less than 9 inches you will need to remove concrete between the wheels as well. Bill Caz.
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