Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 05-29-2017, 03:05 PM   #1
New Member
 
1973 27' Overlander
Athens , Georgia
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 2
Airstream landing spot on an incline

Hello all, I'm looking to park our 1973 27' Overlander in a landscaped, permanent landing spot in our backyard. My concern is that our backyard has a gentle 1:12 slope, so about a 2' difference from the hitch to the rear of the trailer. I'm leaning towards building a raised area with a retaining wall around it that can support the new fill and the 3 ton trailer. I've attached a couple drawings showing the CMU and poured concrete retaining wall as I'm planning it now. Any thought on this? Is it too much, too little? Thanks!
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Airstream Site Plan 5.29.2017.pdf (10.5 KB, 624 views)
File Type: pdf Airstream Site Axonometric 5.29.2017.pdf (10.7 KB, 133 views)
wallybyum is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2017, 03:18 PM   #2
Rivet Master
 
AWCHIEF's Avatar
 
2006 23' Safari SE
Biloxi , Mississippi
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 8,278
Images: 33
Welcome, Looks good. Make sure to post photos after completion.
__________________
MICHAEL

Do you know what a learning experience is? A learning experience is one of those things that says "You know that thing that you just did? Don't do that."
AWCHIEF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2017, 03:59 PM   #3
Rivet Master

 
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,721
Images: 59
I've had both a slope down and a slope up situation.

For your down sloping condition, I would eliminate the curved poured concrete wall, The pad doesn't need to extend any further than the location of the jacks. A squared off wall would be cheaper and easier. Unless the curved wall is for aesthetics.

Having the rear hang out over the end of the wall was also convenient for working under the rear of the airstream.
markdoane is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2017, 06:12 PM   #4
Rivet Master
 
A W Warn's Avatar
 
2000 25' Safari
Davidson County , NC Highlands County, FL
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 4,493
I faced the same questions you are asking a few years ago. But I had more slightly more slope to deal with, 3' from front to rear, in 28' length (the width of my garage). After studying the situation for several months I realized the portion of the trailer behind the axels would be fine if it was above the ground substantially. (I do not put the stabilizers down) So I built a 12' wide almost level gravel pad (no concrete) with the length from the tongue jack to a couple feet behind the center of the rear axle. The length of the pad was several feet shorter than I originally planned, requiring less retained earth height, so I was able to use a rubble stone retaining wall that incorporated a planter, instead of a mortared cmu wall or concrete.

The rear of the trailer being higher above the ground has been a benefit, since it is easier to work beneath the rear portion of the trailer.

Your plans look good and will work fine. Only thing I would suggest is to make the level surface as wide as possible so that you will be able to walk on a level surface on the entry side.
__________________
Alan
2014 Silverado LTZ 1500 Crew Cab 5.3L maximum trailering package
A W Warn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2017, 06:29 PM   #5
Rivet Master
 
Mollysdad's Avatar

 
2017 26' Flying Cloud
Tampa , Florida
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 7,638
Blog Entries: 1
My only advice would be to give yourself some more "walk around room" so you don't have to worry about access to the door or storage hatches. Things like checking tire pressure will be easier, as well as backing into the space.
Mollysdad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2017, 11:47 AM   #6
Rivet Master
 
m.hony's Avatar
 
2013 30' Classic
Greenwood , Mississippi
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 12,111
Consider making it longer for your next trailer and wider for easier access all the way around the trailer for maintenance, loading/unloading, washing, etc.
__________________
2013 Classic 30 Limited
2007 Silver Toyota Tundra Crew Max Limited 5.7 iForce
2006 Vivid Black Harley-Davidson Road King Classic
1999 Black Nissan Pathfinder LE
TAC #MS-10
WBCCI #1811, Region 6, Unit 56
Airforums #70955
m.hony is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2017, 11:55 AM   #7
Rivet Master
 
Rgentum's Avatar
 
2016 27' Flying Cloud
Olympia , Washington
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 618
The attached photo shows my version of your situation.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Barn back corner.jpg
Views:	188
Size:	588.8 KB
ID:	286529  
__________________
Richard Wills, Olympia, WA --- WBCCI 8873, WL7Z
"Aurum": 2018 Ram/Cummins 3500
"Argentum": 2016 AS FC 27 FB
RIP "BigDog": M Harlequin Great Dane, 150 lb
"St. Rocco": M Black Great Dane, 150 lb
Rgentum is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2017, 11:58 AM   #8
Rivet Master
 
DaveP's Avatar

 
2004 28' Classic
Monument , Colorado
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,566
I addition to the other recommendations, I would consider using interlocking wall block for the entire wall. It is very durable, relatively inexpensive and it can be modified if you want to make the area bigger in the future. Fill with coarse rock overlain by 8 inches of road base, then finished with a nice gravel. It will last forever.
__________________
DaveP
2004 Airstream Classic 28 "Willard"
2023 Ram 3500 4x4
DaveP is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2017, 12:31 PM   #9
4 Rivet Member
 
DaveMc's Avatar
 
2005 30' Safari
Montgomery , Texas
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 385
Images: 1
Looks awesome!!! Couple thoughts:

Concrete is bought by the truck if you're getting ready mix (or close to it). Just check that you're not buying a minimum amount that's way over the small amount in that wall.

What type of footing? For concrete and for the CMU part. Are your planning on leaving rebar to extend into the cmu voids and backfill with concrete?

Drainage behind the wall. That's the lynchpin to it all. Surcharge behind walls is almost always the cause of failure.

I'd also recommend the interlocking block wall systems. For this application it seems like an awesome product!

As I was backing into my "too short" and inclined drive this AM I was pondering solutions just like yours! Good luck and post pics!!!!

Dave
DaveMc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2017, 12:42 PM   #10
2 Rivet Member
 
2014 27' FB International
Sugar Land , Texas
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 63
CMU blocks don't make particularly good retaining walls because they are lighter than the volume of earth they displace and don't support much lateral load, but they are good for erosion control. Consider filling on both sides of the CMU blocks and taper the fill 4:1 or 3:1 on the outside of your pad. Another retains wall method is "reinforced earth" For this you use a heavy landscape woven fabric and gravel (1/2" size and up) Lay the fabric on the ground along the side you want to retain. Place a three to four foot wide course of gravel about 6-inches high. Fold the fabric back over the first rock layer. Fill another 6" course of gravel. Fold the fabric over the new gravel and repeat until get the grade you want. The weight of the gravel locks the fabric. Very high vertical walls are built using this method. Foundations pads for structures built on hillsides are commonly built using this technique. Drawbacks are cost if gravel is expensive where you live and the weight of the gravel usually requires mechanical equipment. Good luck and please let us know what you did and learned. Thanks for posting.
us3rnam3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2017, 06:16 PM   #11
2 Rivet Member
 
1990 25' Excella
St Lawrence , Pennsylvania
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 38
Be forewarned not to exceed a 48 inch high wall of any type since that is the maximum height noted in nearly every building code without engineering.

Higher than 48 inches pushes you to a professional engineer sealed drawing.

Most locations require a railing if the drop off height exceeds 30 inches.
rjmaype is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2017, 12:48 AM   #12
New Member
 
1973 27' Overlander
Athens , Georgia
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 2
Thanks @A_W_Warn so your wall is rubble stone only? and it was almost three feet tall at the rear and spanned almost 28'? Gravel fill only?
wallybyum is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Landing a Remote Job - Lessons Learned explore more Working on the Road 8 05-24-2016 10:39 PM
Westport CA Union Landing State Beach McDave On The Road... 4 03-26-2016 12:44 PM
Landing Gear? Feet? Support Jacks? SuzyHomemakr Airstream Classifieds 0 09-19-2014 12:46 PM
Parking on driveway incline? Bellah Winterizing, Storage, Carports & Covers 13 01-21-2011 08:48 PM
Help!!! Backing AS up incline into garage Streamer1 Towing, Tow Vehicles & Hitches 17 02-14-2007 12:11 PM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:01 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.