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Singlefin · 04-17-2021, 03:25 PM

I recently adopted a 2005 25 ft. Safari LS that I plan to place on our land for a year and stay in it for a weekend to a week at a time. This is a new experience for my wife and I so this is definitely a newbie question.

I am going to placing it on a dirt pad on my land and it will have water, electrical and sewage hook up. Aside from covering the tires, leveling the ole girl, lowering the scissor lifts for stabilization and putting chock blocks are there any other steps I should consider when not traveling with an airstream however leaving it in a stable place? Should I be concerned with pressure on the tires?

We are based in Southern California so aside from the sun and heat we will not experience excessive rain/snow etc. Thank you for any guidance!

kidjedi · 04-18-2021, 02:14 PM

If you want to "save" the tires, you could lift the trailer with bottle jacks like you would lift any car, then place jack stands under the axles, then use the trailer's stabilizers as normal. Do NOT us the stabilizers to lift the trailer. A couple of steps down from this would be placing treated lumber (vs. dirt) under the tires. After that, make sure the tires are completed covered. That California sun will kill the rubber surprisingly quickly.

Placement of the trailer will be your biggest consideration. If in full sunlight, it will get crazy hot in the summer, but place it in the shade from trees, and you run the risk of things falling on it. A pole structure with a steel roof is the best cheap solution, and the shade provided will make a huge difference in comfort levels. You probably don't worry much about hail in socal, but in Colorado that's a huge reason to park under a shelter.

Singlefin · 04-18-2021, 07:21 PM

Thank you Jedi, I appreciate the help!

dbj216 · 04-18-2021, 07:45 PM

Many folks use their Airstreams as vacation homes instead of travel trailers. In fact, there are Airstream only parks where folks will travel to and stay the winter. Airstreams last a long time and those from sunny, dry southwest seem to be in the best shape. Trailers stored in wet climates are worse for wear. The simple post and beam structure with a roof over the trailer to shade the sun would help. See photo.

I jack my trailer up and put jackstands under it to get the weight of the trailer off the tires and axles. It also helps prevent thief. Many thieves won't have a jack to get the trailer off the jack stands.

David

Singlefin · 04-19-2021, 08:20 AM

Thank you very much this is super helpful.

Singlefin · 04-21-2021, 10:07 PM

Would you mind sharing what kind of jackstands you use and how many? I think this is a great idea. My Airstream is a 25 foot Safari. Thank you for the help!

dbj216 · 04-22-2021, 06:17 PM

Sure: Jack stands are available at most automotive parts stores. I like the "6 ton" bigger ones as they have a more stable base for wind stability should the trailer see strong winds.

I would put a solid cement block under the jack stand so it won't sink in the mud, dirt or sand.

Here is a photo of our little Globe Trotter 21' that spent the winter supported on the jack stands. I place them behind the axle mounting plate and on the frame rail. I also use stabilizers again just to keep things, well stable.

David

OTRA15 · 04-22-2021, 06:27 PM

One aspect of your intended use, which may require special attention, to is how to get rid of the human excrement, assuming that you plan to use the toilet like a regular toilet. This "black water" waste is normally easy to deal with, because road action, while driving, macerates the solid and liquid toilet wastes into a slurry which is easy to dump when you stop towing.

Airstream toilets are not designed for the typical flush-and-let-gravity-do-the-work. There are hose-based systems for flushing the solid waste material out the black water tank, but I am not familiar with them.

This Waste Systems etc,. sub-forum may have some ideas: https://www.airforums.com/forums/f444/

Perhaps you have other waste disposal plans?

Have fun!

Peter

Singlefin · 04-23-2021, 09:09 AM

Thank you very much. I think this might be the way to go for us and appreciate the pictures. Being a newbie is a little overwhelming and I appreciate all of the guidance and patience with my questions. Hopefully i can pass it on in the future.

Singlefin · 04-23-2021, 09:11 AM

Super helpful. Our plan was to have it hooked up to sewage and not necessarily drive it for sometime as we build on the property. I will start researching these flush methods and appreciate the tip!

OTRA15 · 04-23-2021, 09:35 AM

Sounds good . . . regards to Swami's our old surf break! [1969-1974]

https://www.surf-forecast.com/breaks/Swamis/photos/2650

Bill M. · 04-23-2021, 03:27 PM

We have a trailer that has been on site for 12 years now since we have owned it. We stay in it 3 to 4 months per year. We made the connection to the sewer with 3" PVC with a nice uniform slant on it. We used a rubber connector to connect the section of pipe on the outlet fitting of the trailer to the section of PVC to the sewer. Many people in the park just use a regular sewer hose and that works too.
The secret is to have plenty of liquid in the black tank whey you dump. Valve should not leak and keep the black tank valve closed all the time. We leave the gray tank valve open. A day before I dump I close the gray valve to get some flush water for the line. When it is time to dump I pull the black valve handle and let the tank drain. They I do inside and flush 3 bowls full of water through the toilet. Then back outside and close the black valve and open the gray valve to clear out the lines. Ready for another 5 days or so in hot weather and maybe longer in cold. We use the Tetford odor treatment.

We keep a dehumidifier on a timer (on 4 hours in the evening) in the trailer when not in residence. I just let the tires rot. Pump them up every year. Keep water in the battery and use a good converter that does not markedly overcharge. Unlike the one that comes in the trailer.

kscherzi · 04-23-2021, 04:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kidjedi

If you want to "save" the tires, you could lift the trailer with bottle jacks like you would lift any car, then place jack stands under the axles, then use the trailer's stabilizers as normal. Do NOT us the stabilizers to lift the trailer. A couple of steps down from this would be placing treated lumber (vs. dirt) under the tires. After that, make sure the tires are completed covered. That California sun will kill the rubber surprisingly quickly.

Is it really a good idea to remove the tires and only use jack stands while using the trailer as a normal camper? Those jack stands are fine for holding something up that's not expected to move. But isn't there a chance people moving about inside might shift the trailer enough so they tip over?

Also, as far as saving the tires, if they are six years old or more they're done for regardless.

Hittenstiehl · 04-23-2021, 09:13 PM

Do you have a plan for security if your property is accessible to nefarious types.

Maybe a moisture meter for potential leaks. Maybe some rodent glue traps or a bucket of water for thirsty rodents.

Singlefin · 04-26-2021, 10:30 AM

Im originally from Long Island been here for 22 years. I will be sure to say hola and catch a nugget for you.

kidjedi · 04-26-2021, 11:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kscherzi

Is it really a good idea to remove the tires and only use jack stands while using the trailer as a normal camper? Those jack stands are fine for holding something up that's not expected to move. But isn't there a chance people moving about inside might shift the trailer enough so they tip over?

Also, as far as saving the tires, if they are six years old or more they're done for regardless.

I'm certainly not suggesting *removing* the tires. And the trailer movement from people inside will be mitigated when the stabilizers are deployed as suggested in my post.