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Old 09-03-2002, 10:04 AM   #1
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Question Winterizing - Pressure Needed To Blow Out Lines

How much in the way of PSI is needed to adequately remove/blow out any remaining water from the lines in my AS trailer. I have access to a Coleman air compressor that delivers 70-100 PSI. Will this be adequate to do the job? Thanks, AJ
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Old 09-03-2002, 11:36 AM   #2
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More than enough, you need to regulate it down to what the maximum water pressure would be, 40-45 psi or take a chance on blowing lines. More than anything you need enough volume of air to maintain this pressure for enough time to completely blow the lines.

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Old 09-03-2002, 12:46 PM   #3
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John:

Thanks for the info. AJ
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Old 09-09-2002, 01:38 PM   #4
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Air pressure for winterizing

Two questions on this subject. For those of us who do not have a compressor at home, can we visit our local gas station and use the air service available there? This is usually a free-standing metered device with air hose and schraeder fitting which allows you to pre-set a maximum tire pressure. If so, what setting should be used? 45-50 p.s.i.? Since there would be little or no backward air pressure resistance from the water lines because you would not be filling a tire, would the p.s.i. setting be meaningless? Also, if one plans to winterize by using the Airstream's 12-v water pump inlet to feed RV anti-freeze throughout the system, is it really necessary to blow out the water lines with air first?

Lew Brodsky
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Old 09-09-2002, 02:32 PM   #5
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I will answer your second question first.

You do not need to remove all of the water from the lines to winterize with the antifreeze. You can either pur it in the tank and use the pump to displace the water, or get some fle tubing and connect it to the inlet of the pump and stick it in the jug of antifreeze and pump it thru the system.

As to the air pressure you want to limit it to 30 PSI or less. there are some flex lines in most models and you could blow one off if you get your pressure too high. The way that the gas station pumps work is that they only allow the preset pressure to go out the hose, if you have less than the preset it send more air.

I understand your question regarding no back pressure, but if you think about it the water will allow low pressure air to bypass it and could lead to damage in pipes that are low in the trailer. By allowing pressure to build and then releasing it you would force more water out ans the entire system would be pressurized and then the water would rush out.

I am a firm beliver in the aintfreeze system as I have had it done and not had any problems. The Air system works but if you miss a few tablespoons of water in a pipe somewhere it could lead to many hours of work.

BTW don't forget to also pur antifreeze into your sink traps and enough into the tanks to protect your drain valves.
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Old 09-09-2002, 06:04 PM   #6
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I will second Brett's post. Last winter was my first as an owner, and I did the method of pulling the antifreeze into the water heater, with a tube in the bottle, and also pouring some into the tank. I let the pump do the work for me in putting it thru to the sinks and toilet and shower head. When it ran pink I shut the valve off.
My only complaint is that it took a long time to rid the water of the anti freeze odor, and yes I bought the odorless type!
In spring I put a cup of bleach into the tank, ran my motorhome around a bit, then drained and added baking soda to the final partial fill.
There are a few other winterizing methods, but this is the one listed in my airstream manual as well.
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Old 09-09-2002, 10:20 PM   #7
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Winterizing

I run about 1/2 gallon of antifreeze through the pump. This protects the pump, accumulator tank and plumbing on the tank side of the check valve. I then use compressed air to blow all moisture from the lines. This takes a little while, working the different faucets until there is no hint of water from any of them. I use this approach because I do not have a HW tank bypass on the trailer and no stomach to alter the copper tubing to add one. Antifreeze then goes down the drain and into the tank. I leave the drain valves, water heater drain valve, fresh water tank drain valves and all faucets open. I have not had a problem is 6 years of cold Michigan winters.

Whenever I store my units between use, I open all valves and faucets. The trailer has a HW drain. The MH hot water tank drains with valves open. If I have not used the trailer for a while, it is pretty near dry when I blow the lines. The Motorhome seems to have a reservoir of water somewhere, probably the hose on the reel.

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Old 09-22-2002, 11:44 AM   #8
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Winterizing

Jim, I'v had this Q already answered, but value your experience. What about the street side of the water pressure regulator and the piping from that to the main line?? Tom
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Old 09-22-2002, 08:00 PM   #9
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Tom,

My regulator has two fittings that can be removed to ensure all both chambers are dry. I no longer remove them becaue I place the air fitting on the city water inlet and blow everything clear from the city water side including the pressure regulator. Antifreeze protects the inlet hose from the fresh water tank through the pump, accumluator, to the check valve.

Jim
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Old 09-23-2002, 08:06 AM   #10
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i have a rather large dayton speed air compressor in my shop. i let it run until it reaches 40-50 psi. then i shut it off manually.
then i take a connector that i made to connect my quick connector to the city water inlet.
when i have opened the air into the trailer i go inside and open every faucet. then i restart my compessor and let it run for 5 min.
the pressure never gets above 40 psi. that way.

after that i pull the inlet to the pump and fill the entire system with anti freeze. doing all faucets and traps.(don't forget to bypass hot water heater, pull the under sink water filter and run some anti freeze through the sprinkler head for the toilet.)

i have used this system many times and never had a problem even down to -30 f .

john
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Old 09-23-2002, 05:13 PM   #11
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Unhappy Winterizing

Jim, From your description of the process you use I guess you put some anti freeze in the tank and ran the pump. I used a truck tire inflator [that's all I had] from city water hose connection To blow out water, then ran anti freeze through the trailer drains ,and faucets from the inlet side of the pump . I put some a-f in the tank and opened drain to let out some a-f. I'm not sure reg. is protected. I have the two fittings on the reg. That may be the easiest way to go for me. Tom
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Old 10-18-2018, 10:26 AM   #12
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DC current

I live in DC. Evacuating the system with compressed air is sufficient if you do it comprehensively.

This compressor is smaller than mine but probably OK and then you can also run tools, fill tires and have compressed air for cleaning.

https://www.amazon.com/Bostitch-BTFP...1_4_sspa&psc=1

Probably costs less than one winterize/de-winterize cycle.

I put some antifreeze in the traps for what it's worth.

I try to put enough antifreeze in the black tank to get some to the macerator.

On short trips, I still use the toilet and just flush with a little antifreeze.

For longer trips, you just hook up to water again. No need to flush and then it's another 40 minute blow out when you get home.

I also made a quick connect valve gizmo to connect to the house water.

Protag can jump in here but small amounts of water aren't an issue as long as there's a route/room for some minor expansion. That is, keep the valves and faucets open, just like you would with your garden hose bib.
Skeptics are free to add all the antifreeze they want and flush it all out later.

You just need to make sure you clear the 2 low point drains, the outside shower, the black tank flush valve and the hot water heater in addition to the two sink faucets.

I also bought this heavy socket for the fresh water tank drain plug. It actually can be used by hand without a ratchet and it will seal but you won't over torque

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 10-18-2018, 11:03 AM   #13
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I love gizmo's...

Your FW gizmo is much more professional looking than my MacGyver...but I have gauge.😂
POI...the 35psi is a running pressure, with LP drains and two cold water faucets open.👍

Ezzy-peezy WH drain...plastic scoop optional.

Bob
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Old 10-18-2018, 01:59 PM   #14
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Bob

Looks like an ac charge gage recycled.

I have similar and one thing the gage valve combo allows is system testing for leaks using air. No messes. It’s just like new home plumbing pressure leak down testing.

Gary
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Old 10-18-2018, 09:49 PM   #15
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Bob

Looks like an ac charge gage recycled.
Gary
Yep...one of the benefits of 40+years in auto service is having a 'junk' drawer in the tool box. 👍😂
Bob
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Old 10-19-2018, 04:54 AM   #16
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THE DEAD HAVE RETURNED perfect for Halloween!!!

This thread is from 2002. WOW

Joe D
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Old 10-19-2018, 08:10 AM   #17
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If you use air to blow the water out, which is how I do it, don't forget to remove and drain the strainer on the input side of the water pump. Air pressure will not clear the water from it. Also, cycle the pump for a few seconds to make sure there is no water left in the pump.
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Old 10-19-2018, 08:29 AM   #18
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Don’t forget the shower head, ask me how I know.

Naw, forget asking. You should figure it out.
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Old 10-19-2018, 09:30 AM   #19
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THE DEAD HAVE RETURNED perfect for Halloween!!!

This thread is from 2002. WOW

Joe D
Oh Joe, you are so rite...but realize, the subject returns every year at this time. It never dies.☠️ 😂 WOW

Bob
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Old 10-19-2018, 10:33 AM   #20
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Yeah but it ain’t hitches tires or tv’s so enjoy it while it’s around.
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