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Old 11-03-2017, 10:53 AM   #101
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My low water drains are accessed between the tandem's on the curb side of my trailer. A pain to get to. Did my winterize yesterday.

Couldn't find my usual Prestone RV Antifreeze at Walmart. Looks like Walmart isn't carrying the Prestone product this year and I can't seem to find it anywhere in the metro area. Not sure if Prestone discontinued the product. After having a no name product melt the rubber bladder in a toilet in my SOB many years ago, I've tried to stick with a name brand product.

This year after some research I went with a product called Splash which comes in multiple strengths. I found it at Menards and I bought the -75 rated strength. Good price of $2.11 after rebate.

Here's an article I found on RV-antifreeze and probably explains why I had damage to my toilet one year.

Ethanol (alcohol) based: This type of antifreeze is most readily available in hardware stores and most RV shops it sells for approximately $3.00 – $4.00 a jug. However, this product is also extremely flammable and not to used around any sort of pilot flames or cigarettes. As well, this product has been known to taint certain RV plumbing systems and is only to be used with Quest or Pex plumbing lines. If you have ever used this product you will quickly remember how bad you water smelt and tasted the next spring. Furthermore, because this product is made from alcohol it works to dry out all the rubber seals readily found in your faucets and toilet. As a result we do not recommend or sell this product.

Propylene Glycol based: This product is only available at your local RV shop (and not every RV shop for that matter). It sells for approximately $5.00 – $6.00 a jug. Like the ethanol antifreeze, this product is non-toxic and safe for all RV plumbing. However, propylene glycol does not have the same fire safety warnings, nor the risk of tainting your RV plumbing system. Furthermore, propylene glycol is a lubricant and will actually work to extend the life of the seals in your faucets and toilets, unlike the ethanol based products. This is the only product we use on our own RVs and the only product we sell in our parts store. We have just received our first shipment of Propylene Glycol based anti freeze. We have it on sale at the following prices
Case Of 6 Gallons $23.94 (3.99 Gal)
$4.49 per gallon (each)

Propylene/Ethanol Blend: Again this product is non-toxic and completely safe for RV plumbing systems. It will cost more than $4.00 – $5.00 a jug. This may seem like a good idea, however, it is unknown how much ethanol is required to taint RV plumbing lines and dry out plumbing seals. For that reason we do not recommend this product.


I did a label check on the Splash product and it is Propylene Glycol. Here's the specs on what I used. http://www.splashwash.com/product/an.../rv-marine-75/

Jack
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Old 11-03-2017, 12:53 PM   #102
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Quote:
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Ethanol (alcohol) based:
Talked to a guy once who used vodka
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Old 11-03-2017, 12:57 PM   #103
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Talked to a guy once who used vodka
Vodka belongs in my plumbing, not my trailer's plumbing.
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Old 11-03-2017, 12:58 PM   #104
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Vodka belongs in my plumbing, not my trailer's plumbing.
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Old 11-10-2017, 09:47 PM   #105
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Good info jack. I bought mine from homedepot and itís the kind you say is good.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/South-Wi...7005/202530435
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Old 11-11-2017, 11:08 AM   #106
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Glad it helped. Yeah, way to much at stake if you screw up with the wrong stuff.
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Old 11-12-2017, 07:20 PM   #107
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Iím buying a 2018 serenity. 30ft
Just watched your video
I think I willl want to get a compressor. The only use will be to winterize the rv
How would I know what size compressor to buy. I looked on Craigís list and regretted are many types. Help?
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Old 11-12-2017, 09:50 PM   #108
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I’m buying a 2018 serenity. 30ft
Just watched your video
I think I willl want to get a compressor. The only use will be to winterize the rv
How would I know what size compressor to buy. I looked on Craig’s list and regretted are many types. Help?
In a pinch a 12VDC inflator works, but just takes longer. I've used mine twice and it's fine. Here is an inflator thread http://www.airforums.com/forums/f42/best-portable-tire-inflator-172217.html
I bring this on all trips

Next step up is a 120VAC (tankless)compressor. It works better than than the 12VDC.

However if what you want is a tank compressor, IMO pretty much anything will work i.e. to start http://tinyurl.com/y8yeobfu which shold be fine. You want a continuous flow of air and not having the compressor running 100%. I limit the pressure to 55 or less.

I have a dual tank Rigid that a buddy gave me as he had two. It's overkill for winterization and tires...but it was also free. Supplies a very nice flow of air to dry out the lines nicely.

Bob
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Old 11-13-2017, 08:25 AM   #109
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I have a 2hp compressor from Harbor Freight. Cost less than $100. Had it for years.
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Old 11-14-2017, 05:28 AM   #110
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thanks
AS I get ready to receive the new rv The list of things "I NEED" seems to grow. Hopefully i can keep the weight down.
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Old 11-14-2017, 09:22 AM   #111
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thanks
AS I get ready to receive the new rv The list of things "I NEED" seems to grow. Hopefully i can keep the weight down.

That's why I carry the 12VDC inflator in the TT and leave the larger/heaver 110VAC in the shop.

That way I can top off PSI if needed and on one occasion to winterize on the road.

bob
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Old 02-21-2018, 05:53 PM   #112
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For myself I don't use antifreeze. Instead I drain what I can. Blow out most of the rest. Then attach a small aquarium air pump to the system and let it blow air through the system for the next several days with all valves open and hand sprayers using rubber bands then I close all the valves and test the hand sprayers for sounds of bubbling. Since they have a loop in their hoses. If detected I will leave the one bubbling open for another day, then check the other and do it if necessary. At the end the lines are all bone dry with nothing left to freeze.
Remove trap plugs, crack waste valve, and cover air vents.
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Old 03-30-2018, 09:16 AM   #113
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Scoutx, your method has a lot of appeal to me, and it prompts a question that has occurred to me several times in this thread and in draining my AS a 2-3 times:
Can you blow air through the pump? (that is the pump in the plumbing that pressurizes the system when it use.)

I haven't been able to figure this out and hence I'm disconnecting the pump, installing a bypass for it, pumping anti-freeze into the pump and leaving a bit in it, before blowing out the system.
I have no idea what is inside the water pump (impeller, piston, magic?) but it just seems like if it can push water it shouldn't be able to have air pushed through it.
Okay, enough of my ignorance, do I need to do this disconnect/by-pass hassle, or can I just run this little air pump through the system?
Thanks,
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Old 03-30-2018, 09:32 AM   #114
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Consider adding the bypass valve and hose setup to the pump input to easily pump antifreeze through it. Campco makes one...
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Old 03-31-2018, 12:04 AM   #115
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WW, Much would depend on the inner workings of your particular pump. That said, once the lines are dry, a quick start of the pump should remove any remaining water that might be an issue. You might then need another day to dry out the lines again. As long as you've not exposed the pump to water it shouldn't be necessary to dry it each time. You only need to dry out where water has been.
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Old 03-31-2018, 07:57 AM   #116
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Hi

Before you start adding stuff to one side or the other of your water pump, take a good look at how much / how little space you have to work with on your trailer. In some cases, there really isn't much room to do this or do that.....

Bob
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Old 04-02-2018, 06:44 PM   #117
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2016 Flying Cloud 25 here. For the Air Presuure Winterization method my manual says to open ALL faucets, shower heads, AND disconnect outlet to water pump.

Low point drains (2), and freshwater drain closed, hot water heater bypassed (FYI, mine has ONE valve to turn for HW heater bypass)

Then pump not more than 60 psi through city water inlet.

The manual does not say to open one fixture at a time, it clearly says open them all at the same time. (this results in a lower pressure in each line, and also resulted in a near continual bubble/gurgle at the outlet line that is removed from the water pump)

The fixtures, however, blew clear, without mist. It was the line removed from the pump that bothered me

So I closed her all up, and pumped the pink through

Second time pumping the pink this winter, first was in the late fall, this time just yesterday, after returning from a trip down south.

I just don't trust the 'air only' method yet, sorry
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Old 04-02-2018, 07:00 PM   #118
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I donít trust air only as well, never an issue.
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Old 04-03-2018, 06:39 PM   #119
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If you're only using the air briefly to mechanically blow out the water, then I probably wouldn't trust it either, but if you follow the mechanical blow out with a long period of air flow and evaporation, then there will remain no water to freeze. Now I will grant this will take time, reasonable care and due diligence, but it will work and avoid introducing chemicals into the water system which can throw off the taste of your water.
But as with all things you need to decide for yourself which method best suits your needs, wants and effort to obtain an acceptable result.
For myself with ready access to shore power before, during and after storage that is on my own property, the time and minor effort is well worth it, to me. Of course if I was doing so in the middle of winter, then that might change my desire for a solution that could be obtained quicker though it might mean extensive flushing of the system next time it is to be used, and possibly a residual off taste.
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Old 04-04-2018, 08:11 AM   #120
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Hi

Using air, you are trading the stuff that is in the compressor and tank for whatever is in the anti-freeze. The compressor has metal parts, rust in the tank, gaskets, rings and lube. If the hose got used with an oiler sometime in the past .... yuck ... Check the "quality" of the air before you *assume* it's good. A simple filter (dirt cheap at the hardware store) is also well worth the money.

No this isn't some sort of hypothetical thing. I *do* use filters on air lines and they pick up a lot of junk. Unless you use dedicated hoses for the job (never seen oil) the filter needs to be at the outlet end (which is indeed a pain ...)

Bob
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