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Old 06-25-2018, 10:00 AM   #1
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Why Bottle Jack 1-Axle

New AS Nest and tire change instructions recommend a bottle jack for single axle units. Why?

Will a properly sized scissor jack do as well?
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Old 06-25-2018, 10:11 AM   #2
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Personally, I don't trust scissor jacks...they tend to collapse if they are not dead vertical on flat ground. I suspect the suggestion is in the interest of safety--the AS goes up at an angle when you jack it, and the jack has to be under it on the frame.

I use a combination jackstand and hydraulic bottle jack to lift and hold my rig. It's probably gross overkill, (Duh!) but just ONE of the jacks I have has enough capacity to lift the entire trailer by itself... Keep in mind I use these to both change tires, and work UNDER the rig. Hence the deliberate overkill...mostly so I don't get killed!

Link to a similar item:

https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-64...k%2Bstand&th=1
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Old 06-25-2018, 10:13 AM   #3
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Why ask why?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jcpelton View Post
New AS Nest and tire change instructions recommend a bottle jack for single axle units. Why?

Will a properly sized scissor jack do as well?
Why would you want to go to the trouble of circumventing Airstream's recommendation, and attempt to find a scissors jack to carry around with you, instead of the much more compact, more durable, and stronger bottle jack?
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Old 06-25-2018, 11:26 AM   #4
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I don't really know, just asking - if TV has one would it not be sufficient?
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Old 06-25-2018, 11:34 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by MWBishop View Post
I don't really know, just asking - if TV has one would it not be sufficient?
I personally won't trust the TV jack to properly lift an Airstream--for that matter, I use the 'overkill' jackstand for lifting tow vehicle as well.

Most OEM vehicle jacks are not made for heavy duty use, and may or may not be able to lift the TV when fully loaded for camping. The only part of the OEM jack I trust is the long crank handle i absolutely need to use to lower the spare tire (grin). I also carry one of those cross-type lug wrenches and a torque wrench for changing tires--the OEM kit short single-handle lug wrench is useless in that regard...I can't get enough torque on it to even loosen a wheel lug nut.
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Old 06-26-2018, 09:48 AM   #6
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For wheel removal as well as long term storage I use the combination bottle jack and stand available from Tractor Supply. See attached.
Jim
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Old 06-26-2018, 10:10 AM   #7
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I have a singe axle trailer. I had a blowout. I pulled the trailer to the side of the road, which sloped away from the paved surface of the road. The metal wheel was directly on the ground.

I could not get the scissor jack under the frame. A stranger stopped by and let me use his small bottle jack. Once under the frame, I could not get the scissor jack to raise up and I had a long helper bar to use. I had to extend the small bottle jack up until the frame was high enough to allow the scissor jack to function. The small bottle jack was almost high enough to do the job itself.

That is, when the scissor jack is flat you cannot lift anything at all and you will NOT be able to screw the jack up. It has to be up about 2" to 4" before you will be able to lift any amount of weight. If you don't believe me, try it at home. It surprised me.

The sloping shoulder made the jacks very unstable. I did manage to change the tire.

Yes I have towing insurance. I did not want to wait hours for a simple tire change.

I now carry a small AND a large bottle jack and 2 screw jack stands. And a scissor jack, but as I write this I may ditch the scissor jack altogether.

Don't forget, if you have a Dexter Torsion axle, you should not put the jack on the axle itself, but rather on the frame. When you take it in to a tire shop do not let them put any jack under the axle, no matter that they say it will be all right to do. Don't take the chance on them bending your axle.
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Old 06-26-2018, 11:34 AM   #8
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As noted bottle jacks start and push evenly from start to finish. Scissors jacks need to be partially open before you get any leverage from the screw.
Personally I don't find the bottle jack to be any more stable than the Scissors jack. You still need to block the trailer from moving!
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Old 06-26-2018, 11:47 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmkrum View Post
I personally won't trust the TV jack to properly lift an Airstream--for that matter, I use the 'overkill' jackstand for lifting tow vehicle as well.
.

Your opinion but could be better if the TV was defined. A CUV, SUV or otter type TV?

I use the screw jack from a 1 ton pickup. A pair of them have lifted my 30’ Slide Out easily and w/o issues. Then ratcheting jack stands to support AS.

I’d never consider doing it with light duty TV jacks.
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Old 06-26-2018, 12:48 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GCinSC2 View Post
Your opinion but could be better if the TV was defined. A CUV, SUV or otter type TV?

I use the screw jack from a 1 ton pickup. A pair of them have lifted my 30’ Slide Out easily and w/o issues. Then ratcheting jack stands to support AS.

I’d never consider doing it with light duty TV jacks.

Good point. When I asked about using TV jack I was thinking of an F150/F250 as an example. However, I imagine most folks with single axle AS are not dragging it with an F250 diesel. If TV is a light SUV or something similar then yes I would not use that TV jack either.
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Old 06-26-2018, 12:55 PM   #11
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Scissor Jack....

Do we carry one...yes.
To support the tongue when we put the flag pole holder plate under the jack.

Bob
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Old 06-26-2018, 01:17 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by rmkrum View Post
I personally won't trust the TV jack to properly lift an Airstream--
. . .

The OP's Nest weighs 4,000 lbs. loaded, so most TV bottle jacks would probably work on the Nest IMO. We carry the van's OEM bottle jack, and 2 others, because you never know when you will need to exert lifting/spreading/compressive forces, especially when boondocking. I think our larger jack is a 5 ton, just in case. Extra jacks also permit helping other motorists, and having some redundancy in the event of equipment failure.

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Old 06-26-2018, 02:25 PM   #13
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I have changed a tire on the Bambi after a blowout. At that time I only had a bottle jack plus the one in the truck. It was no fun on the side of the road ...not to mention dangerous. We were on a fairly flat shoulder so that was in our favor...had we been on a sloped shoulder or otherwise unstable turf, I'm not sure we would have succeeded.

After that little adventure I bought a small floor jack that I haul with me on all trips. In fact, it lives in the back of the truck. I haven't had to use it yet on our rig, but I've used it twice to lift someone else's rig (one was a 34')...when their tongue jack slipped off the wood base they were using and sunk into the grassy lawn.

I hope I never have to use it on our rig.
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Old 06-26-2018, 03:47 PM   #14
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Northern Tool sells a compact double-ram bottle jack. I carry one of those in the Airstream. I think it has the advantage of being low enough to get under the trailer frame in the worst conditions I could anticipate and enough travel to lift the trailer.

I have had to use it for a bad, though not quite blown out, tire (tread separation) in a filling station driveway. That was not the typical flat tire in a muddy ditch situation, so the jack has not truly been tested, but it worked very well that day.
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Old 07-01-2018, 07:03 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rzrbrn View Post
Don't forget, if you have a Dexter Torsion axle, you should not put the jack on the axle itself, but rather on the frame. When you take it in to a tire shop do not let them put any jack under the axle, no matter that they say it will be all right to do. Don't take the chance on them bending your axle.

Would it be OK to jack under the axle where the axle meets the frame? I've heard that the frame rail could be compromised holding the frame up at the jack point. What do you think?
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Old 07-01-2018, 08:08 PM   #16
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"When I asked about using TV jack I was thinking of an F150/F250 [but] If TV is a light SUV or something similar then yes I would not use that TV jack either."

You have more faith in Ford than I do. The scissor jack in my 2017 F150 looks cheap--like all OEM scissor jacks--and I wouldn't trust it with my Airstream. I carry a 5-ton bottle jack, and should probably add a jack stand.
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Old 07-01-2018, 08:09 PM   #17
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I carry a 3 ton floor jack in my Tundra whether I am towing or not. If I stop to help someone it gets the job done safely and quickly. I have one that goes as low as 3.5 inches so low vehicles no prob. Cheap at HF.
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Old 07-02-2018, 03:10 AM   #18
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Would it be OK to jack under the axle where the axle meets the frame? I've heard that the frame rail could be compromised holding the frame up at the jack point. What do you think?
Do a search on this forum. You will get many answers. However, just because someone says they have been doing something for a 100 years does not make it the correct way to do it. Could mean they are just lucky.

Probably best to follow the manual for your specific unit. If you don't have a manual you should be able to find it on the Airstream company website. Go to Company, then Manuals. There are specific recommended jack points on your trailer.

If you have a double axle, a ramp may be the safest way to change a tire, but even so, be safe and put support stands on the jack points. Single axle trailers are a bit more challenging.

Other than at home, I seem to get flats in the worst possible conditions: On an angle, soft ground, raining, etc. Carry a flat (wood may be best, or plastic if that is all you have) plate to put your jack on before raising your trailer if at all possible.

A side note: Get a hydraulic jack. Scissor jacks won't raise from a perfectly flat position when weight is on it. Your OEM truck or car jack may not be strong enough to raise your trailer.
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Old 07-02-2018, 05:01 AM   #19
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Whatever kind of jack you choose to carry, I'd suggest that you give it a trial run before it's needed for a situation on the road. Work out the details of the job at home where there's no pressure and no traffic. There's no substitute for experience.
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Old 07-02-2018, 11:30 PM   #20
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Whatever kind of jack you choose to carry, I'd suggest that you give it a trial run before it's needed for a situation on the road. Work out the details of the job at home where there's no pressure and no traffic. There's no substitute for experience.
This comment is 100% spot on. Jack it up at home at LEAST 1x, on both sides. But do understand that it is under controlled circumstances. It will at least prepare you to the best degree possible, but chances are you will get a flat in the worst possible place.

I is so darn easy for these things to slip off a jack, or have the jack simply fall over while the unit is jacked up.

Be as safe as you possibly can be.
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